Should I lubricate my wheel bolts

[Lizbiebrowne]

Recently tightened my wheel bolts up to Hymer’s recommended 160 Nm setting. When I came to take the wheels off today to check the brake pad wear, on one wheel the bolts undid smoothly but on another the bolts undid jerkily with loud creaking/cracking noises. Should I be lubricating the bolts to avoid this?

 

[Jev88]

I'll stick my neck out and say any lube will ruin your torque setting.

 

[Barriesimpson]

Recently tightened my wheel bolts up to Hymer’s recommended 160 Nm setting. When I came to take the wheels off today to check the brake pad wear, on one wheel the bolts undid smoothly but on another the bolts undid jerkily with loud creaking/cracking noises. Should I be lubricating the bolts to avoid this?

Copper or graphite grease would be ideal to prevent them seizing up.

 

[Carolyn and Kev]

As above...copper grease (Copperslip) allows for the torque setting to be reached without fail. If you really want to do the job properly....had copper slip to the back of the alloy wheels to assist them coming off when needed!

Kev

 

[jockaneezer]

They don't tend to come with grease on them from the factory, sooo....

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[meanders]

I was told many years ago by a first class but now deceased mechanic to use a tiny amount of molybdenum disulfide grease rather than copper grease.

 

[The Coops]

I'm in the no camp as well!

 

[WESTY66]

As above...copper grease (Copperslip) allows for the torque setting to be reached without fail. If you really want to do the job properly....had copper slip to the back of the alloy wheels to assist them coming off when needed!

Kev

I ALWAYS do this
I was taught this as an apprentice HGV fitter

 

[WESTY66]

I'm in the no camp as well!

It’s a wonder they don’t rust solid over there

 

[The Coops]

It’s a wonder they don’t rust solid over there

No need mate 18ct gold doesn't rust!

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[Steve N Tracy]

No grease or oil should ever be used on a wheel nut.

 

[Lizbiebrowne]

Opinion seems to be evenly divided. Should I lubricate half the bolts or half the wheels?

 

[Lizbiebrowne]

As above...copper grease (Copperslip) allows for the torque setting to be reached without fail. If you really want to do the job properly....had copper slip to the back of the alloy wheels to assist them coming off when needed!

Kev

I don't have trouble getting the wheels off. Getting them back on is a different matter.

 

[WESTY66]

Opinion seems to be evenly divided. Should I lubricate half the bolts or half the wheels?

I guess it’s up to you then

 

[Lizbiebrowne]

I was told many years ago by a first class but now deceased mechanic to use a tiny amount of molybdenum disulfide grease rather than copper grease.

I think I've got some of that in the garage from decades ago. Could this be the opportunity to use it?

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[WESTY66]

I don't have trouble getting the wheels off. Getting them back on is a different matter.

Oh I’ve had to hammer alloys off the mounts prior to me getting the van, trust me they seem to weld themselves to the hub, hence I always use a smear of copperslip on the face of the hubs and some on the studs as I was told by the Oldtimers that dry studs/nuts can give you a false torque. Others may have a different view

 

[1967bowesj]

They don't tend to come with grease on them from the factory, sooo....

Fiat didn’t think some gearboxes would need any oil, that didn’t go down well!

 

[1967bowesj]

I don't have trouble getting the wheels off. Getting them back on is a different matter.

24” power bar and use that as a lever to lift wheel onto the hub

 

[Grummyb]

I always spray a bit of maintenance spray on the wheel studs on the lorries before the nuts on and not had a problem yet and thats a lot of studs covering a lot of miles

 

[paddymcc]

Opinion seems to be evenly divided. Should I lubricate half the bolts or half the wheels?

Lubricate the back wheels only, then when they come rolling past you you'll still be able to steer after them .

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[funflair]

Oh I’ve had to hammer alloys off the mounts prior to me getting the van, trust me they seem to weld themselves to the hub, hence I always use a smear of copperslip on the face of the hubs and some on the studs as I was told by the Oldtimers that dry studs/nuts can give you a false torque. Others may have a different view

You will get more "stretch" on the stud if it is lubed up as it prevents the stiction that ultimately stops the torque wrench, so same torque setting but tighter, there again the stiction helps stop them coming loose I usually put a smear on so that's a foot in both camps

 

[Oldrat]

I really don’t know the correct answer.

But if anone thinks that wheel nuts and studs do not come adrift then think again. When patrolling the M1 we regularly collected the things from the bottom of the motorway, mainly HGV stuff but not always.

Often we’d see three or four different ones.
Scary eh!

 

[L' Hobo]

Recently tightened my wheel bolts up to Hymer’s recommended 160 Nm setting. When I came to take the wheels off today to check the brake pad wear, on one wheel the bolts undid smoothly but on another the bolts undid jerkily with loud creaking/cracking noises. Should I be lubricating the bolts to avoid this?

No! Use plenty of wire brush use instead and a smear of copper grease around wheel hub.

 

[Richard n Ann]

I've always lubed my wheel bolts, never had an issue.
Actually I had the wheels off in April, put them back on with 160nm torque and done 5200 miles since

 

[1967bowesj]

I really don’t know the correct answer.

But if anone thinks that wheel nuts and studs do not come adrift then think again. When patrolling the M1 we regularly collected the things from the bottom of the motorway, mainly HGV stuff but not always.

Often we’d see three or four different ones.
Scary eh!

Most newer steering wheel attendants don’t do pre trips, then again some of the older ones think they are immune from accidents or incidents.
Proper checks will negate may problems.

Bet a lot on here cannot remember the last time they checked their nuts, most will say the garage did them.

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[meanders]

As I remember, the trick is the smallest smear on the thread but not the conical bit. That forms effectively a Morse taper as it seats and provides the traction.

 

[L' Hobo]

I've always lubed my wheel bolts, never had an issue.
Actually I had the wheels off in April, put them back on with 160nm torque and done 5200 since

Every time you torque to the correct torque, you are stretching the stud just a little more, by lubricanting it, even more so.

EDIT: IF this applies to Alli fitting, I don't know as I have never, not will ever, have them!

 

[WESTY66]

Most newer steering wheel attendants don’t do pre trips, then again some of the older ones think they are immune from accidents or incidents.
Proper checks will negate may problems.

Bet a lot on here cannot remember the last time they checked their nuts, most will say the garage did them.

Two weeks ago 180NM not moved since time before

 

[L' Hobo]

Most newer steering wheel attendants don’t do pre trips, then again some of the older ones think they are immune from accidents or incidents.
Proper checks will negate may problems.

Bet a lot on here cannot remember the last time they checked their nuts, most will say the garage did them.

Just before I left for Drax with a tapping hammer!

EDIT: A tapping hammer is better because you don't stretch the bolt but you can quickly hear if the bolt is not tight.
I always carry it so, if anyone wants to check their wheels at either the Plum Festival or Notgrove, just ask!

 

[donkey]

Wheel fixing nuts/bolts rely on friction at the wheel face to prevent loosening, therefore that face be it tapered or flat must remain free from any sort of lubrication.
Quality wheel fixing nuts/bolts are invariably zinc coated, this is to deter corrosion and also it acts a thread lubricant.
If you really must lubricate, then you should add it to the inner face of the thread in the hub or nut. To add lubricant to the male thread can cause the lubricating agent to be build up, like a bow wave, and this can cause it to contaminate the friction face of the fixing, thereby negating any locking action, and can lead to loosening of the wheel fixings.

Geoff

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