Screwing in to my motorhome!

[gerrym11]

Hi everyone, looking for some advice please. I am putting up an awning rail on the side of our moho. I will be using adhesive to stick it to the moho wall but to enable it to stay in place while the adhesive dries I will be using some self-tapping screws. My question is, is it safe to screw through the moho wall not knowing what is in the wall (I am assuming just insulation)? I am assuming pipes and wires are installed on the inside wall, not in between the inside and outside wall of the moho.
Can you let me know if my assumption is correct as of course I do not want to take the risk of screwing in to something that could cause me a big problem!
I have a Burstner Ixeo 640.

TIA
Gerry

 

[Steve and Denise]

Had to read this title twice! Can’t think there will be anything under the outer skin and Onlysue 10mm long screws.

 

[Mountain man]

Same read it twice.

 

[gerrym11]

Same read it twice.

HAHA

 

[gerrym11]

Had to read this title twice! Can’t think there will be anything under the outer skin and Onlysue 10mm long screws.

Cheers

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[Googlebot]

Be careful what adhesive you use.

It needs to be the correct one and the surfaces prepped properly. They take a lot of strain and Amy movement will soon allow water in the screw holes.

 

[Bessy765]

On our Iexo 736 the awning lighting cable runs down from the roof, directly above the center of the light fitting. The rear marker goes straight through the wall and runs along the inside of the van behind the decor panel. Don’t over tighten them It’s a very thin outer skin. I would pre drill the holes and put a drop of non setting mastic in the hole first. Offer the rail up mark the holes pre drill, mastic, fix. Use the fattest screw you can fit through the awning rail hole. Use stainless screws or you will get rust streaks later on.

 

[TheBig1]

use strips of duct tape to hold the rail in position as the sikaflex sets. Make sure you have a continuous bed of about 3mm all the way along when compressed

 

[TheBig1]

If you do use screws, go for really short ones, as you are screwing into 1mm aluminium on 3mm of ply over the insulation. Any wiring inside the wall will be nearer the inside wall surface. Probably 20mm maximum in most cases

 

[gerrym11]

Be careful what adhesive you use.

It needs to be the correct one and the surfaces prepped properly. They take a lot of strain and Amy movement will soon allow water in the screw holes.

Yes, thank you, I will be using the same adhesive I used for my solar panel, Sikaflex.

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[BouncyBoatFolk]

You could lay the van over on it's side, no not really , some self drilling self tapping stainless screws, or drill holes for self tapping screws , but turn the torque setting right down on the drill, it'll just burst out the ally otherwise.
Mike

 

[busbuddy]

Gaffa tape it on whilst it sets, no point in drilling holes if you are sticking it on

 

[Terry]

I used Puraflex 40 on one of mine then used Siroflex Grip and Grab adhesive on another (recommend both) pre drilled through brackets , lots of sticky stuff started with battery drill then final turn by hand, (better feel) last one I fitted only had 3 X 9 ins long bits of bracket never moved at all If you use the G&G you can stick it on but make sure it's in the right place because once you press it on in position it's not moving

 

[gerrym11]

Thanks for all your replies, really helpful.

Wish me luck

 

[TUCANO]

Thanks for all your replies, really helpful.

Wish me luck

GOOD LUCK

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[Chris Sykes]

My Swift Bolero 714SB has an internal oblong box section tube fitted inside the top lockers which runs the full length of the Motorhome the 3 external Thule awning mounting brackets are bolted through the aluminium skin and the internal tube with load spreading internal plates (effectively large oblong washers) the bolts are sealed with Sikaflex 291i which is also used to bond the 3 x Thule external awning mounting brackets onto the side of the Motorhome.

In strong winds these awning units fixing points are severely tested, which is why you need to have strong fixing points.

The new Thule Omnistore 5200 heavy duty model is a significant Improvment on the 4900 model as the 5200 is much more robust and in my opinion is well worth the extra cost.

 

[Clive Mott]

If you simply glue an awning rail to the outer skin then there is a serious chance that in use the thin aluminium skin will pull away from the insulation behind. I do know that most roll out awnings which secure to the same place have bolts that go right through the sidewall with spreader plates on the inside to distribute the load. Normally these are in the back of cupboards.

 

[Lenny HB]

If you do use screws, go for really short ones, as you are screwing into 1mm aluminium on 3mm of ply over the insulation. Any wiring inside the wall will be nearer the inside wall surface. Probably 20mm maximum in most cases

There is no ply the aluminium is bonded straight to the insulation also the aluminium is nowhere near 1mm thick.

 

[Trout bum]

its case of take your time and prepair well , use best adhesive sealer you can get measure 3 times screw once use adhesive sealant in the holes and body of screws (stainless steel screws) as well,check you tube or manufacturer of awning for a video on how to fix don't rush the job , and leave well alone for at least 24 hours before trying out or touching it , best of luck.

 

[weebill]

Removed as I thought it was a wind out but realised it’s a caravan type rail

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[Ian Bosman]

use strips of duct tape to hold the rail in position as the sikaflex sets. Make sure you have a continuous bed of about 3mm all the way along when compressed

Check to see if, like as in mine, the upper cupboards, for trunking cabling located for high level stuff (and easily got at for repairs, modifications). You are safest to check with the Moho builders where to place the awning rail as they issue it to the trade at the very least. Personally, I would be using bolts clean through the wall properly sealed at both ends of course not relying on screws into the outer skin only as they are easily pulled out. Looking at mine the awning rollout is bolted at three points (it is 3 metre long) with capping on the inside to hide the nuts. In high winds there is huge leverage on these rails coming from all sorts directions over which you have no control.

 

[Trevor Wbm]

Recently fitted two brackets for a TV aerial pole on the rear nearside. Noticed a couple of days later that the front offiside and rear nearside side lights weren't working. After much faffing with bulbs, repeatedly blowing fuses etc. it ocurred to me that a possible cable run to the top rear nearside side light repeater was up behind where I'd fitted the brackets. Took the screws out one at a time, number 6 was the culprit.
I suspect the position of an awning bracket makes a similar issue less likely, but the advice re using the shortest screws possible would have served me well ..

 

[gerrym11]

My Swift Bolero 714SB has an internal oblong box section tube fitted inside the top lockers which runs the full length of the Motorhome the 3 external Thule awning mounting brackets are bolted through the aluminium skin and the internal tube with load spreading internal plates (effectively large oblong washers) the bolts are sealed with Sikaflex 291i which is also used to bond the 3 x Thule external awning mounting brackets onto the side of the Motorhome.

In strong winds these awning units fixing points are severely tested, which is why you need to have strong fixing points.

The new Thule Omnistore 5200 heavy duty model is a significant Improvment on the 4900 model as the 5200 is much more robust and in my opinion is well worth the extra cost.

Thanks, but I don't want a wind-out awning.


Cheers

Gerry

 

[gerrym11]

its case of take your time and prepair well , use best adhesive sealer you can get measure 3 times screw once use adhesive sealant in the holes and body of screws (stainless steel screws) as well,check you tube or manufacturer of awning for a video on how to fix don't rush the job , and leave well alone for at least 24 hours before trying out or touching it , best of luck.

Thank you.

 

[autorouter]

deleted. Not relevant, should have read the OP. Can't delete the picture, sorry.

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[Ian Bosman]

Thanks, but I don't want a wind-out awning.


Cheers

Gerry

Having had caravans for over 40 years all with awnings and more recently a motorhome I would argue that the rollout has given us much more freedom using a different style of camping. Over the three years we have learnt that within a few minutes we can be up sticks and gone whereas an awning of the caravan type attached ties a good half to three quarters of an hour to detach and fold for transport and that is on a calm day. I used to do this all on my own with only a few minutes help from my wife and learnt that caravan awnings, which is what Gerrym11 is after, have their place having fronts and sides (and you can get all of that for a rollout) but not on a motorhome.

 

[Dave Horton]

Don't do it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Clive Beeza]

You could lay the van over on it's side, no not really , some self drilling self tapping stainless screws, or drill holes for self tapping screws , but turn the torque setting right down on the drill, it'll just burst out the ally otherwise.
Mike

why not use a hand screwdriver
it will give you the "feel" for when it is tight enough

 

[gerrym11]

why not use a hand screwdriver
it will give you the "feel" for when it is tight enough

Yes Clive, that is what I was thinking of doing.

 

[gerrym11]

Having had caravans for over 40 years all with awnings and more recently a motorhome I would argue that the rollout has given us much more freedom using a different style of camping. Over the three years we have learnt that within a few minutes we can be up sticks and gone whereas an awning of the caravan type attached ties a good half to three quarters of an hour to detach and fold for transport and that is on a calm day. I used to do this all on my own with only a few minutes help from my wife and learnt that caravan awnings, which is what Gerrym11 is after, have their place having fronts and sides (and you can get all of that for a rollout) but not on a motorhome.

Thanks for that, it is your opinion, there are thousands that would say the opposite, but I understand where you are coming from.


Cheers

Gerry