S520 Bike rack part needed (1 Viewer)

[tanex]

Have a 1995 S520 and want to be able to carry a bicycle. I can see where it ought to go but there are a few bits missing. The Hymer is missing the upper support parts. If I could find a photo I could make the attachments though finding the correct parts would be ideal. The bicycle is not electric so that back flap should support it okay.

 

[DP+JAY]

Can you post a photo of what you've got for it to attach to?
DP

 

[tanex]

Yes of course
The two brackets which I assume a U shaped alloy pipe bolys to are about 400mm apart

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[DP+JAY]

The picture appears to show 3 brackets but I can't tell if they are horizontal or vertical.
I think I may have the hooks to suit.

 

[jockaneezer]

Are they like this one I had to make after a "handbrake malfunction" and I still wanted to use the rack while waiting for the insurance to sort out the repairs ?

 

[tanex]

That is a beautifully made piece. Today I found a photo of the back of an S520 and it shpws the "U" shape pipe i will have to make. It will be bo;ted to the two brackets on the previous photo.

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[DP+JAY]

That is a beautifully made piece. Today I found a photo of the back of an S520 and it shpws the "U" shape pipe i will have to make. It will be bo;ted to the two brackets on the previous photo.

Something like this then

 

[tanex]

Yes indeed ... with 380mm centres.
Will get one Bent up come Monday

 

[JockandRita]

An excellent bike rack, which I was keen to maintain as best as possible.

The fold down carrier is known to delaminate.

Good luck getting it sorted.

Cheers,

Jock.

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[tanex]

Perfect and very clear photos Jock. Thank you. I can easiliy get the dimensions from them and make the parts. Will only be carrying the one bicycle and it is an electric one.. Will check for delamination as it is quite an old Hymer. Not many Hymer down here at bottom of NZ let alone LHD but saw another yesterday. Not same model so no copying bike rack. Again thank you.
john

 

[JockandRita]

Perfect and very clear photos Jock. Thank you. I can easiliy get the dimensions from them and make the parts. Will only be carrying the one bicycle and it is an electric one.. Will check for delamination as it is quite an old Hymer. Not many Hymer down here at bottom of NZ let alone LHD but saw another yesterday. Not same model so no copying bike rack. Again thank you.
john

No problem John, I'm pleased to have been able to help.

All the S Class and E Class from around 94-99 had the integrated bike rack at the rear.
I can confirm that parts are no longer available unfortunately.

The edging seal starts to break up, and water gets in causing the inner metal supports to corrode, which results in the delamination of the two surfaces. I dug out the old, and replaced with new sealant, then treated the hinges to a rust cure product. Once dried, I just kept them well lubricated.

Where the base of the sliding guides attach to the platform, cracks began to appear around each one. I used a plyable resin sheet, which I cut out to shape, (front and back) butted them together, then pressed into place to make one piece around each base, creating a seal around each stainless steel foot bracket. Once cured the repair provided a solid base support, which could then be painted if required. (Sorry, no photos on this device I am using).

Cheers,

Jock.

 

[tanex]

Jock
It appears in your photos that the two skins do not have through bolts to hold them together. Chexked mine and replaced the 5 round head 6mm bolts with 316 ones and even found some SS press clips for the slider pins. Living next the coast is hard on vehicles...even hymers.

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[JockandRita]

It appears in your photos that the two skins do not have through bolts to hold them together.

Yes, you are right tanex, no through bolts at all, and TBH, I've not seen through bolts on any of that type of rack.

BTW, we sold the vehicle in December, but I have loads of photos of work we've done/had carried out on our E Class over the 15 x years of ownership, should you need any for comparison.

Cheers,

Jock.

 

[tanex]

Well I might be slow but I take a long time! Thank you to Jock and all who helped. Having a Hymer in NZ is no use at this time so it sits out in the salt laden unused. But it gave me the opportunity to remove the rear bike rack tray. Easy job but freeing the metal frame inside the clamshell took some time. And yes Jock those 5 SS bolts were an German owners addition and served only to keep the sandwich together. Glad I took a look at this tray as the two brackets that poke out of the tray were pulling away from the bracket. I will strengthen the metal bracket and have it powder coat then assemble the parts. Why did Hymer use foam to pack inside the assembly as it only encouraged rust. I will try and find a substitute. All good fun and it kills the time and not me.

 

[tanex]

Have added strengthening to the metal frame that is encased in the two clamshells of the bike rack and am wondering WHY the foam was in there. There must be some padding that does not absorb water and act like a sponge. Anyways my question is what adhesive should I use the assemble the 3 parts. It has to be applied to boyh sided of the metal frame and around the perimeter of the two plastic outers.

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[JockandRita]

Anyways my question is what adhesive should I use

I would have thought perhaps a bonding adhesive, suitable for all surfaces. It doesn't need to be flexible, just strong. I'm assuming of course that you won't want to separate the two layers ever again.

Wurth, Sikaflex, or Puraflex 40 (if it's available to you), which would also seal around the edges.

Just my thoughts on the job.

Cheers,

Jock.

 

[Jake vE]

An excellent bike rack, which I was keen to maintain as best as possible.

The fold down carrier is known to delaminate.

Good luck getting it sorted.

Cheers,

Jock.

View attachment 364114View attachment 364115View attachment 364116View attachment 364117View attachment 364118

Hi Jock,

These photos have been a godsend to me as when I acquired my hymer the previous owner had removed the bike rack and fitted a different one. I'm eager to also keep mine in good condition but I appear to be missing the two arms that attach the door to the frame. This may be a big ask but do you know the size of these bars and the length of the slot towards the top?

I've searched and searched but can't find any specific details and want to make some to fit!

Thanks,

Jake

 

[JockandRita]

This may be a big ask but do you know the size of these bars and the length of the slot towards the top?

I've searched and searched but can't find any specific details and want to make some to fit!

I'm really sorry Jake, I wouldn't have a clue, and as the Hymer went to it's new owners on 28th December last year, I'm not able to go out and take measurements for you.

Sorry I can't be of any more help on the matter.

Cheers,

Jock.

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[Jake vE]

I'm really sorry Jake, I wouldn't have a clue, and as the Hymer went to it's new owners on 28th December last year, I'm not able to go out and take measurements for you.

Sorry I can't be of any more help on the matter.

Cheers,

Jock.

Ah! No problem, I'm sure some fettling and guesswork will get me there.

Appreciate your reply!

 

[JockandRita]

Ah! No problem, I'm sure some fettling and guesswork will get me there.

Appreciate your reply!

Good luck with it.

BTW, there are other E & S Class owners on FUN, with that vintage model of Hymer with the integrated bike rack. Maybe joining the Hymer Facebook Group, might bring forth the info you need.

Cheers,

Jock.

 

[jopparocks]

I have that rack on the back of my recently purchased s650 and bumped it very gently reversing into a space when it was lowered with my bike on the back bending the hinges. This caused the unit to come apart at the seams. From the replies here it seems that I can separate the whole unit, straighten everything out and reseal it.
I wouldn't think there are any spares for this unit either now as its so old
I'll dig out the metal struts that you're talking about as well and measure them. Probably won't be able to do until tonight though as I'm supposed to be 'working at home' right now.

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[Jake vE]

I have that rack on the back of my recently purchased s650 and bumped it very gently reversing into a space when it was lowered with my bike on the back bending the hinges. This caused the unit to come apart at the seams. From the replies here it seems that I can separate the whole unit, straighten everything out and reseal it.
I wouldn't think there are any spares for this unit either now as its so old
I'll dig out the metal struts that you're talking about as well and measure them. Probably won't be able to do until tonight though as I'm supposed to be 'working at home' right now.

If you could that would be great. I have been trying to at least fit mine to close it but I'm struggling to get it to close properly. I'm hoping once I have the brackets it'll close easier!

Yeah, I took mine apart, fixed a few bits as it was in pretty poor condition then resealed with some Puraflex40 and it's not quite as good as new but certainly not letting any water in and falling apart!

Jake

 

[jopparocks]

If you could that would be great. I have been trying to at least fit mine to close it but I'm struggling to get it to close properly. I'm hoping once I have the brackets it'll close easier!

Yeah, I took mine apart, fixed a few bits as it was in pretty poor condition then resealed with some Puraflex40 and it's not quite as good as new but certainly not letting any water in and falling apart!

Jake

Hi Jake
I've measured them and they are 42cms x 2.5cms. They are around 4mm thick. Here's a picture of them to make sure we are on the same page.
As you can see my bike rack is knackered.

 

[jopparocks]

Jake I just noticed you wanted the size of the slot - its 5cms x 8 mm.

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[Jake vE]

Hi Jake
I've measured them and they are 42cms x 2.5cms. They are around 4mm thick. Here's a picture of them to make sure we are on the same page.
As you can see my bike rack is knackered.

Brilliant thank you so much!
I will see who in our workshops wants a couple of beers to make me some now....
Yeah mine looked pretty similar to begin with. Issue I have at the moment is that when I place the door in the space it fits. Once I attach the hinges to the brackets and try and close the door it gets about 6 inches from the locks then appears to get stuck.....as light was fading and it had started raining I figure this will be something to attempt again another day....

Thanks again

 

[JockandRita]

Once I attach the hinges to the brackets and try and close the door it gets about 6 inches from the locks then appears to get stuck.....as light was fading and it had started raining I figure this will be something to attempt again another day....

Is that possibly because, the stainless steel retainers haven't got a long enough channel, with which they slide on the pins, retained by push on locking washers?

Just as an aside, I also found that the metal sliders on the 2 x square tube sections, required regular lubricating, to enable them to slide smoothly when opening and closing.
When the rack was reinstalled after a (bumper off) floor repair, it took several attempts to get the exact positioning right, for correct alignment on closure.

Cheers,

Jock.

 

[Jake vE]

Is that possibly because, the stainless steel retainers haven't got a long enough channel, with which they slide on the pins, retained by push on locking washers?

Just as an aside, I also found that the metal sliders on the 2 x square tube sections, required regular lubricating, to enable them to slide smoothly when opening and closing.
When the rack was reinstalled after a (bumper off) floor repair, it took several attempts to get the exact positioning right, for correct alignment on closure.

Cheers,

Jock.

Just trying to picture what you mean, currently I am trying to close it without the stainless steel retainers (assume you mean by this the pieces I need making?)
With the retainers off and just the hinges attached there doesn't seem to be any adjustment in the door or is there?
The sliders on the box section move freely so I'm at a bit of a loss! My intention in the short term is just to put the door back on until I get the retainers made to tidy up the back of the MH.

Thanks for the tips!

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[jopparocks]

No problem John, I'm pleased to have been able to help.

All the S Class and E Class from around 94-99 had the integrated bike rack at the rear.
I can confirm that parts are no longer available unfortunately.

The edging seal starts to break up, and water gets in causing the inner metal supports to corrode, which results in the delamination of the two surfaces. I dug out the old, and replaced with new sealant, then treated the hinges to a rust cure product. Once dried, I just kept them well lubricated.

Where the base of the sliding guides attach to the platform, cracks began to appear around each one. I used a plyable resin sheet, which I cut out to shape, (front and back) butted them together, then pressed into place to make one piece around each base, creating a seal around each stainless steel foot bracket. Once cured the repair provided a solid base support, which could then be painted if required. (Sorry, no photos on this device I am using).

Cheers,

Jock.

Hi Jock and Rita sorry to butt into the thread but I've got a major problem with mine as well. When you say delamination does it look like this:

 

[jopparocks]

Brilliant thank you so much!
I will see who in our workshops wants a couple of beers to make me some now....
Yeah mine looked pretty similar to begin with. Issue I have at the moment is that when I place the door in the space it fits. Once I attach the hinges to the brackets and try and close the door it gets about 6 inches from the locks then appears to get stuck.....as light was fading and it had started raining I figure this will be something to attempt again another day....

Thanks again

Pleasure to help Jake.

 

[JockandRita]

Hi Jock and Rita sorry to butt into the thread but I've got a major problem with mine as well. When you say delamination does it look like this:

No need for an apology, we are all here to help each other.

Yes, however, yours is extreme.
Ours started to swell a little, and every time I folded it away, water would run out at the bottom. That's when I gouged out the old sealant and replaced with new. As posted earlier in the thread, I reinforced the stainless steel retainers at their anchor points on the fold out rack, with a light reacting repair matting (see an earlier post). It proved to be a really strong repair.

I know of one Hymer E650 owner, who binned his fold out rack completely because of the same problems. I have to say it made the rear of his MH look very unsightly indeed, so anything you can do to retain the original and keep things looking good, will be a bonus.

Just trying to picture what you mean, currently I am trying to close it without the stainless steel retainers (assume you mean by this the pieces I need making?)
With the retainers off and just the hinges attached there doesn't seem to be any adjustment in the door or is there?
The sliders on the box section move freely so I'm at a bit of a loss! My intention in the short term is just to put the door back on until I get the retainers made to tidy up the back of the MH.

Thanks for the tips!

I can only think that maybe the top surface of the fold out rack is sitting prominently higher (than it maybe should), on the lower part. The two should be level when put together. Other than that, I can't see why it's not closing properly, even without the original retainers.
When closed, the rack should sit flush with the rest of the rear bodywork.

Cheers,

Jock.

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