Replacing Drivers door window lift belt (1 Viewer)

[tanex]

Well I have put off opening the drivers door of my S520 to fix the lethargic and sometimes not workingwindo lift mechanism. So after taking out all those plastic pop rivets I uncovered the main reason for the inactivity. The toothed belt had shed most of its teeth. Thought i would make a temporary fix and rotate the belt to give the drive mechanism a fresh set of teeth to chew on. Undid the clamp taht holds the toothe belt to the bottom of the glass and ran the motor through to a fresh part and reattached it. Yes window now goes up and down but THAT belt is knackered. Any idea of where to buy a new one? And further to this problem when windows reached the top of the door while holding the button it "rachets" away. Should it not have a way of switching off? There are some wires at top of the door that appear to go nowwhere. Will try and add a few photos. . motor runs quietly when raising and lowering glass. Finding THAt belt may be a problem

 

[rb62]

You should be able to get a drive belt,or help, from a bearing stockist if you can get it off and take it in,looks like Farrells are the main ones in NZ I've seen the name Bercoflex mentioned somewhere

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I would have thought there should be a limit switch to stop it when it is fully closed

 

[tanex]

Will check locally after I have propped the glass up and removed the belt. And yes there ought to be a limiting switch somewhere. A circuit diagram of the door would be great. Someone with a striped apron had been in there before me as that fragile inner door skin suffered a little.

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[gus-lopez]

There should be a micro switch with a long arm to cut the power,I would have thought?

 

[tanex]

thank you rb62 it is indeed a Bricoflex belt so for all of you out there that MAY need one one day it seems to me to be a 107S 1675S 0055 or 1075 1675 0055 . If anyone can let me know where they got theirs I would appreciate it. Will add a photo for those with better eyesight than I.

 

[rb62]

UK based I'm afraid but they may be able to help

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at least they're still in existance,albeit in the USA!

https://www.brecoflex.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/B212-Polyurethane-Timing-Belts-REV8.pdf

They may be able to match it

H.T.D BELTS

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[tanex]

Thanks to all. And yes found the disconnected limit switch behindthe aluminium plate. Picked this Hymer out of Germany so whoever the man (or woman) with the striped apron on that did this I am on the lookout!!!!!.Not always a good idea to buy from another country without being able to view and kick the tyres. Have to figure out the correct wiring and just wait for a new belt. Contacted Bricoflex and await a substitute or direct replacement. Shall post the new part number when i know it in case anyone needs it. Again thank you

 

[tanex]

Just a followup on that Knackered 1675mm Bricoflex drive belt. I tried everywhere to get one but apart from buying 10 to get one i found a solution. You can buy T5 10mm toothed belt from China for $8 a meter. Asked for 2 meters and as the entire belt is not used in its travel i was able to splice the joint where it is clamped to the bottom of the glass. So it can go back togther when i figre out the wiring to the limit switches. Soon we can get out of this hellhole living by the sea. Impresssed the Hymer shrugs it off.

 

[tanex]

And here is a photo with 1675mm toothed belt installed .The spiced join is at the point the belt clamps to the bottom of the glass. just need to figure out the wiring to the two limit switches. Does anyone have a circuit diagram for the door of mid 90s S class.

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[62272]

Thats a great job, thanks for sharing your updates and work, im sure it’ll be helpful to many in the future

 

[tanex]

Thank you. Buying a hymer without being able to kick the tyres and from another country can be a problem when you get the motorhome. That said i have enjoyed rebuilding a Truma 3400 AND 3402 and now onto this drivers door. That German with the striped apron (butcher) did not stop at disconnecting the limit switches hence the chewed up belt but opened the drive motor and broke all the m4 bolts and replaced them with 2 self tapping screws and dislodged the gasket. Only solution was to cut a new gasket and drill all the studs out and use Allen through bots, Stainless of course.. Still beats me why that ITT 404.288 is so pricey. Surely it was used in other applications other lifting a piece of glass in a Hymer.

 

[bigalw35]

Looks just like a normal window wiper unit ?

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[tanex]

Yes and were it to be knackered i would look for a cheaper alternative.

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[bigalw35]

Not sure about that, but from a uk “knackers yard” probably £30.00 ?

 

[tanex]

WELL i might be slow but I take a long time. Worked out the wiring of the two limit switches so the window glass now stops where it ought . Have added a photo showing the splice in the toothed belt. You will note the lap gives priority to the effort on lifting the glass not dropping it. Why spend heaps on an endless belt (if you can find one) when a 2 meter length cut to fit fo about $10 is just as good. An interesting job that was cheap for parts but loads of dicking about. Those plastic rivets that go around the door trim are hard to find so I bought some with a larger skirt and drilled all holes out to 6mm. the larger skirts covered the striped apron german's bad repairs. Now to go somewhere...anywhere

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[AsM0DeUz]

Hi,

I am also replacing the belt but in my case the motor is also dead. I cannot find any by googling. Have you found an alternative ?

Any idea from what genuine car it was coming from? I could then check in scrape yards

Thx