Removing self-amalgamating tape

[Ingwe]

We have a problem with central locking of the habitation door. Problem was that two of the cables had snapped at the base of the doors, probably due to continual flexing. the green wire coming to the door (from the bodywork) is very short and i effected a temporary repair whilst in Spain in the Spring. i used a connector block that i could push onto the wire and tightened it as much as i could. it worked for all the summer.

However to keep it dry and to offer some strengthening, I wrapped the visible wires with self-amalgamating tape that I've used successfully for many years when i messed about with a moveable satellite dish. I now need to remove the tape to see if i can make a more permanent connection of the broken wires. Trouble is, i was over zealous with the tape and it does what's it's intended to do. it sticks like the proverbial to a blanket.

Apart from sitting on the van step with a scalpel, is there anyway of removing the horrible stuff without damaging the very thin wires underneath it? How I wish I'd just put on only one layer!

 

[Campervan_man]

Maybe a hair drier to warm it up and slowly try to peel it off?
Otherwise a scalpel with care.

 

[SteveJ]

Some types of SA tape can be loosened using White Spirits or Acetone, some virtually fall apart with a spray of WD40. However the one I have been using recently appears to be virtually indestructible. Only way I have been able to remove it is as *Machzoneman* has suggested, hot air and a scalpel.

 

[Ingwe]

Will go tomorrow with a can of WD40 and a brand new Swann Morton scalpel blade. Cant find my scalpel itself at moment. Happy days reminder of the operating theatre!

 

[rod_vw]

If it's good quality self amalgamating tape then I doubt that your only way is to slice it open very carefully.
I'd be inclined to replace the wire completely in the exposed area plus a bit inside each side if at all possible. Soldering and heat-shrinking or similar making permanent joints when you do.

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[Ingwe]

If it's good quality self amalgamating tape then I doubt that your only way is to slice it open very carefully.
I'd be inclined to replace the wire completely in the exposed area plus a bit inside each side if at all possible. Soldering and heat-shrinking or similar making permanent joints when you do.

Yes, I fear you're right about the tape. The real problem is that the snapped wire has snapped really close to the van's body and is really inaccessible, apart from about 1". My soldering skills aren't good enough to get the iron onto the projecting wire. If I could then I'd solder a longer piece of wire to join up to the other end of the snapped wire coming out of the door. I think the best I can do is to try and get the connecting block onto the small piece and tighten it as much as possible.
Perhaps, when I go back tomorrow, I will take a photo so you can see the problem. Some inspiration is needed.

 

[chaser]

If it ain't broke don't try to fix it

 

[Ingwe]

If it ain't broke don't try to fix it

It is broke. That's the problem.

 

[chaser]

It is broke. That's the problem.

Thought you had fixed it with the tape

 

[Ingwe]

Thought you had fixed it with the tape

I fixed it temporarily in the spring but it has stopped working. Sorry, I should have made that clear, in my first post.

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[Scotsblood]

Go with the Swann Morton, best blades by far and the most reliable way to remove SA tape!

 

[Speve]

I use a Stanley knife that does the trick if you’re careful?

 

[Robin McHood]

If you are good with a scalpel then fine otherwise I'd use a pair of small electronic snips and nibble away. Had to do this many times on subsea pump cables etc. Next I really would lose the connector block idea. It will simply damage the remaining wire more and more every time you tighten it until you cannot get at it to repair it. A solder joint to a new piece of wire is really not difficult to achieve. Make sure the wire ends are clean as possible, a good quality cored solder and a hot soldering iron. Tin both ends, the solder will flow into the wire when you've done it right then hold the two ends together heat and let the two ends meld into each other. Again the solder will flow if you have got it hot enough. Finally slip heat shrink sleeving (preferably adhesive lined) over the joint, heat until it shrinks and glue exudes from both ends and you will have a repair that will probably outlast you.. Other option is to come by my place and we can sort this (for a small fee)

 

[Mike800966]

Good Luck with removing the SA Tape, it can be tough stuff. Stanley knife or scalpel , just take your time.
Just a point, if you decide to overwrap the solder joint with Heat Shrink then be VERY sure either to use a large size or to keep it well away from the heat. I have found that even the heat of soldering will start it to shrink it and you will be very lucky to slide it over the soldered area

Mike

 

[Ingwe]

If you are good with a scalpel then fine otherwise I'd use a pair of small electronic snips and nibble away. Had to do this many times on subsea pump cables etc. Next I really would lose the connector block idea. It will simply damage the remaining wire more and more every time you tighten it until you cannot get at it to repair it. A solder joint to a new piece of wire is really not difficult to achieve. Make sure the wire ends are clean as possible, a good quality cored solder and a hot soldering iron. Tin both ends, the solder will flow into the wire when you've done it right then hold the two ends together heat and let the two ends meld into each other. Again the solder will flow if you have got it hot enough. Finally slip heat shrink sleeving (preferably adhesive lined) over the joint, heat until it shrinks and glue exudes from both ends and you will have a repair that will probably outlast you.. Other option is to come by my place and we can sort this (for a small fee)

Great advice on soldering. The wire is not very accessible. If you were closer than Scotland, I'd be round with my small fee in my hand.

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[Ingwe]

I am concerned about overapping the soldered joint with heat shrink as I fear getting the sleeve over it will break the joint. I'm assuming the sleeve is placed over one piece of wire before soldering and once joined, you slide the sleeve up and over.
If there was a cover, like tape that you put over the join and then heat up, that would be favourite.

 

[TheBig1]

there is an issue soldering the joint if the wire is going to flex in use. the heat of soldering the wire makes the copper brittle and will snap.
I would use a small wago type connector and add in 4 inches of flexible wire, carefully covered with sa tape and pushed back into the void. do the same at the other end of the wire

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[Ingwe]

The real problem TheBig1 is the very short length of wire protruding from the van's wall. It's about 1". That is why I used a connector block that I cut down so that it could go over the wire and allow for the screw to be tightened. That Wago connector looks like it needs longer wire to operate. I'll go tomorrow and send some photos so you people who know how to do these things, can see the problem.
I have done some soldering on valve amplifiers, CD players etc but there the wiring was more accessible.
Thanks all for you patience and advice.

 

[TheBig1]

pull the inch of wire from the hole and clamp a small set of mole grips lightly to the wire near the hole. This prevents it pulling out of your fingers as you work on the joint

 

[Ingwe]

That's great tip about the mole grip. As I'll be using a scalpel to cut off the SA tape, I'll bring a locking forceps to hold the wire, whilst I solder or connect the dinky piece of wire. Anyone volunteering to be the scrub nurse?

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[Ridgeway]

I'd just use a shrink sleeve joint, solder and shrink sleeve all in one

 

[Ingwe]

The limited access will probably prevent the use of shrink self soldering sleeves. Using a hot air gun or even a lighter would probably melt part of the door/surround.

 

[Ridgeway]

The limited access will probably prevent the use of shrink self soldering sleeves. Using a hot air gun or even a lighter would probably melt part of the door/surround.

Normally in these cases i use something to protect the area around what i'm heating, depends of course on the actual space and sensitivity of what's around it etc but you can shield the heat from spreading.

 

[Robin McHood]

I am concerned about overapping the soldered joint with heat shrink as I fear getting the sleeve over it will break the joint. I'm assuming the sleeve is placed over one piece of wire before soldering and once joined, you slide the sleeve up and over.
If there was a cover, like tape that you put over the join and then heat up, that would be favourite.

Heat shrink comes in tube form. You use a size that is a larger internal diameter than the joint. You do exactly as you have described. Once the solder joint is complete slide the tube over the joint and then use a hot air gun which will cause it shrink in diameter onto the joint sealing it and adding strength.

 

[Robin McHood]

Self solder butt connectors are useful but in the cramped conditions using a hot air gun to achieve temperatures required could be difficult. For jobs like these I use a small gas powered soldering iron. The kits for these come with a mini hot air blower nozzle which is perfect for small tight access jobs. Something like this - though mine is a now very ancient RS version! - https://www.screwfix.com/p/rothenbe...it/36233#product_additional_details_container

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[Baggydave]

when Using shrink fit I just rub the edge of the hot soldering iron over the surface till it shrinks to fit

works for me

 

[Ingwe]

Good morning all, thanks for all the helpful advice. By way of update, I have now managed to remove the SA tape. Now that I can see the wires, I can see that not only is the green wire snapped but so is the blue wire coming from the door.
I can think that the only way to reconnect both the green and blue wire is to dismantle the Hartal door and see whether within the door, there is either more wire or there's scope for connecting at least the blue wire. The green wire, within the wall space is still problematic.
I've attached some photos: the green wire (less than 1" protruding from the wall), and the wires leavin the door. You can't even see the green wire from the door!

b

 

[Ingwe]

Well, I think I may have come to the end of the road on this one. I took the door cover off and there is no access to the wiring. You can access the lock mechanism itself but the wires are in the other part of the door which seems to be sealed. Actually removing the whole door is simply way beyond my level of competence.
I suppose we'll just have to live with locking the door manually and with the key.
It annoys me that a simple thing such as central locking is stymied by such poor design of having thin wires inaccessible and far too short. Thanks for all your help and advice though.

 

[Baggydave]

It’s a shame it’s built this way. I’d be inclined to cut a bigger access hole in the door above the cable entry. You should then have enough room to fit new cables & keep the joint inside the door panel. if the new cables are in flexible trunking it will look neat. Maybe a plug in connector at the other end & fixed to the wall.
just a thought

 

[Ingwe]

Baggydave- thanks for this. I think this is exactly what I'm going to do. Do you happen to know how to access the wires that are in the van? They seem to come from behind the interior of the gas locker. Do they connect to the distribution unit? If so, then connecting new wires to the distribution box would be a good start and in fact, if I was doing that anew, then I could use just one length of new cable (for each colour) and there'd be no need to make a connection other than at the wiring plug that connects to the central locking actuator.
Any info, gratefully received.

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