Reich water pump (1 Viewer)

Apr 27, 2008
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450
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2005
I have a reich 19ltr submersible pump in my motorhome which ive never been happy with the flow rate I have checked the filter on the bottom which is clean as a whistle I have tried changing the wires over and there is no noticible difference
I have run the pump for 10 seconds on full and I'm averaging 550-600 ml with the filter on or off
So multiply this by 6 and I'm getting around 3 1/2 ltrs per minute
Does this sound right
 

scotjimland

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Jul 25, 2007
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If it is connected correctly, polarity is correct and has at least 12v when checked at the pump connections the I would think the pump is u/s

It's twin barrel pump so if one barrel isn't pumping the flow rate is at least halved .

Also check the non return valve isn't blocked.. it's on the pump outlet.

612191.jpg

NB.. if you have a Hymer.. the supply positive is BLUE

The pump cable, BROWN is positive, Blue is Negative..

Double check with multi-,meter
IMG_0578 (1).jpg

I bought my spare here .. https://www.leisureshopdirect.com/w...p/reich-pumps/reich-19l-twin-submersible-pump
 
Last edited:
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karalal
Apr 27, 2008
319
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2005
If it is connected correctly, polarity is correct and has at least 12v when checked at the pump connections the I would think the pump is u/s

It is twin barrel pump so if one barrel isn't pumping the flow rate is at least halved .

Also check the non return valve isn't blocked.. it's on the pump outlet.

NB.. if you have a Hymer.. the supply positive is BLUE

The pump cable, Brown is positive,

View attachment 265887
I have tried swopping the wires after reading one of your previous posts
It's fitted on burstner elegance it is wired blue to blue tried blue to brown and a very slight decrease in pump output 50ml on 10 seconds running on full so I reconnected back to blue blue
 

scotjimland

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Jul 25, 2007
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I have tried swopping the wires after reading one of your previous posts
It's fitted on burstner elegance it is wired blue to blue tried blue to brown and a very slight decrease in pump output 50ml on 10 seconds running on full so I reconnected back to blue blue

always test with a multimeter.. but that being the case .. as suggested , check supply voltage at the pump, check NRV , if both OK change pump ..

in any case it's good policy to carry a spare pump.. they fail at the most inconvenient times..
 
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karalal
Apr 27, 2008
319
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2005
Thanks for the reply
I think I had 12.4 volts + on the blue cable I shall check the non return
valve on the weekend in the meantime I'll order a new pump

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pappajohn

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Aug 26, 2007
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19ltr flow will be a free flow rate... No pipework, open pump outlet.
If you deduct 1/3rd for pipe resistance it should still be around 12 ltr/min
3.5 ltr/min says knackered.
 

JeanLuc

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Nov 17, 2008
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I got my replacement from Marcle Leisure a few years back. Their current price looks about right to me.
 

wanderer

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Apr 14, 2008
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We were about to leave for our ferry in September when the water pump decided to pack up , luckily I had a new Reich spare which i fitted . Three weeks later the new pump stopped working , on inspection it was showing signs of rust in the inlet area plus our water had an orange tinge . The guy at Hispavan in Vera thought that maybe a screw had got inside so he fitted another pump . I now think what had happened is the inspection screw top to the tank used to have a metal ball chain to the plug at the bottom this had broken at some time and the little ball links had been sitting in the tank and had been sucked up by the new pump. So would reccomend to having a feel round in your tank to make sure there are no foreign bodies lurking
 

icantremember

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Sep 2, 2010
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I agree with everything already posted but there is another possibility depending on where you are measuring the output .. Is there an in-line filter somewhere in your system? This could be a Nature Pure or similar, which gradually block the flow with use and require changing.
 
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karalal
Apr 27, 2008
319
450
South Wales
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a-classs
Exp
2005
I agree with everything already posted but there is another possibility depending on where you are measuring the output .. Is there an in-line filter somewhere in your system? This could be a Nature Pure or similar, which gradually block the flow with use and require changing.
I am not aware of any inline filter .
I have installed a brand new reich 19ltr pump today and I am getting exactly the same flow rate at the taps I have cleaned the filters on the ends of all the taps same results. I'm going to hook up the old pump to short hose to see what sought of flow rate it produces when not connected to my pipe work in the van

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scotjimland

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Jul 25, 2007
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I'm going to hook up the old pump to short hose to see what sought of flow rate it produces when not connected to my pipe work in the van
sorry to hear of your ongoing problem..

that is good idea.. also check the flow rate when you change polarity and measure the voltage when the pump is running ..

also check the new pump, I had to return one that was faulty
 

Puddleduck

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Jan 15, 2014
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On and off for many years.
They are rubbish. We are on our third in just over two years. Replaced under warranty.
 

scotjimland

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Puddleduck

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On and off for many years.
The first two failed within weeks of each other. Maybe they were from the same batch.

The one that is on now is working at the moment :) We carry a spare.

They always go at the worst possible time as well.

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karalal
Apr 27, 2008
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Just completed a scientific test with my original pump
Connected a hose to the outlet submerged the the pump in a 20 l container connected to a battery 20l emptied in 1 minute
At least I know it's not the pump
Just tested with reversed polarity quite a significant drop in the water flow rate
At least I have a spare pump .
Now to find out why the flow at the taps is not so good.
Thanks everyone for their suggestions
 

scotjimland

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Jul 25, 2007
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Thanks for update..

Just completed a scientific test with my original pump
Connected a hose to the outlet submerged the the pump in a 20 l container connected to a battery 20l emptied in 1 minute
At least I know it's not the pump
Just tested with reversed polarity quite a significant drop in the water flow rate
At least I have a spare pump .
Now to find out why the flow at the taps is not so good.
Thanks everyone for their suggestions

I'm assuming that test wasn't using the van hab battery.. ?

if so, try a test in the van.. and check the voltage at the pump when it's not running, then when it' running

if there is a poor connection somewhere, the voltage may drop under load.. it will drop, but shouldn't go below 12v
 
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karalal
Apr 27, 2008
319
450
South Wales
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2005
Thanks for update..



I'm assuming that test wasn't using the van hab battery.. ?

if so, try a test in the van.. and check the voltage at the pump when it's not running, then when it' running

if there is a poor connection somewhere, the voltage may drop under load.. it will drop, but shouldn't go below 12v

Thanks I will test it tomorrow I'm going to give the system a good clean with white vinegar
To see if there is anything in the pipes which might cause a bad flow rate
I know when I used the outside shower point the flow there was useless
 

scotjimland

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Thanks I will test it tomorrow I'm going to give the system a good clean with white vinegar
To see if there is anything in the pipes which might cause a bad flow rate
I know when I used the outside shower point the flow there was useless

ok.. (y)

regarding bad connections , check the fuse hasn't overheated and partially melted the connection block, it's a fairly common problem with high loads on blade fuses .. this causes a high resistance and a drop in voltage under load
 
Apr 27, 2016
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It's a good idea to check the voltage at the pump, first when not pumping, and then during the pumping. If there's a bad connection, there may be significant voltage drop, especially If your system is the type with microswitches in the taps. The current has to go all the way to the tap and back again, and some of that wiring can be very thin and feeble.

I found on my system there was a drop of 1 volt. I fixed this by wiring a relay next to the pump. The pump is fed directly from the relay contacts. The tap microswitches are connected to the relay coil. That way the voltage drop of the tap wiring is bypassed.

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karalal
Apr 27, 2008
319
450
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a-classs
Exp
2005
I'm assuming that test wasn't using the van hab battery.. ?

if so, try a test in the van.. and check the voltage at the pump when it's not running, then when it' running

if there is a poor connection somewhere, the voltage may drop under load.. it will drop, but shouldn't go below 12v[/QUOTE]

Just tried the pump in the van voltage when the pump is not running 13.4v
With the pump on 10.8v
 

scotjimland

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Jul 25, 2007
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Just tried the pump in the van voltage when the pump is not running 13.4v
With the pump on 10.8v

I think that's the problem,

test again measuring the voltage at the battery terminals.. or at the fuse, it should more or less stay constant.. if it doesn't drop, then there must be a high resistance connection in the supply to the pump .. if it drops below 12 v battery is duff or needing charged..
 
Apr 27, 2016
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Since the 80s
test again measuring the voltage at the battery terminals.. or at the fuse, it should more or less stay constant.. if it doesn't drop, then there must be a high resistance connection in the supply to the pump ..
Once you've checked for obvious bad connections, the high resistance might simply be wiring and contact resistance.

There are in general two different ways of switching the water pump on and off.

1. A microswitch in each tap, including the shower control. For the toilet there is a flush switch plus an electric solenoid valve.

2. No switches in the tap, but a pressure switch built into the pump. When the tap is opened, the pressure drops and the pump switches on. When the tap closes, the pressure builds up until the pressure switch turns off the pump.

You can tell which system you have by either listening for a slight click as the tap opens, or looking to see if there is a pair of wires going into the tap underneath.

You can bypass the voltage drop in the taps by fitting a relay. A relay is an electrically operated switch. A tiny current goes through the coil, which switches a much larger current through the main contacts. In this case, a tiny current through the taps to the coil will switch the main current to the pump. The path through the pump is shorter and doesn't involve going through the taps. If you decide to put in a relay, here's a before and after diagram of the wiring.

Automotive relays have numbers on the connections: 85 and 86 for the coil; 30 and 87 for the main contacts. Ignore 87A if present.

PumpWiring.png
PumpRelayWiring.png
 
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karalal
Apr 27, 2008
319
450
South Wales
Funster No
2,331
MH
a-classs
Exp
2005
I think that's the problem,

test again measuring the voltage at the battery terminals.. or at the fuse, it should more or less stay constant.. if it doesn't drop, then there must be a high resistance connection in the supply to the pump .. if it drops below 12 v battery is duff or needing charged..

Batteries are fully charged.
Voltmeter across the terminals
Batteries are reading 13.18 no load
Pump on 13.12
 

scotjimland

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Jul 25, 2007
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Batteries are fully charged.
Voltmeter across the terminals
Batteries are reading 13.18 no load
Pump on 13.12

so, as suspected.. looks like a high resistance connection on the pump feed.. have you checked the pump fuse and holder ? Fuse tight.. no burning or corrosion on the blades..?

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Apr 27, 2016
6,947
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Manchester
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Since the 80s
You could measure the voltage across the pump (Taps to Negative in the diagram in my post). Also measure the voltage across the Supply to Negative points. Measure while the pump is running.

In fact, if you measure the Supply to Taps voltage you can measure the voltage drop across the taps directly.
 

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