Power trouble in bed

[Scottome]

I have a Dethleffs XLI 7850 and the electric power for the lower bed and front curtain are gone. I can’t find the fuse or how to fix the problem. Can anybody help me? It‘s not at the Schoud EBL or the fuses under the steering weel. Any other sugestions?
I have to park the car for the winter and have to get the beer stored in the bed or else it will frezze.

Do anybody have the drawings for all electric wiering(?) in the car?
I also need the list over all the parts and part number if anybody can help me?

Please ignore my poor English writing it’s not so easy to be a Norwegian and write in English

 

[Riverbankannie]

Your English is pretty good and your post is understandable. I am sorry I don’t know anything technical about your bed or where the fuses might be.
However I am impressed by your priority of making sure your beer does not freeze! Even in the relative warmth of an English winter compared to a. Norwegian one, I would not leave any fluids in my van. I suppose the alcohol in the beer will help like antifreeze!
Hope someone comes along soon to help and I have bumped you up the page.

 

[ManTheVan]

Welcome to the forum! Sorry, I don’t know where the fuse might be, but have you tried testing with an electrical multimeter to see if there is any power to the bed motor (if you can access it)?

The only alternative I can think of is to contact Dethleffs themselves, or a dealer in Norway, who might be able to help.

Good luck!

 

[Scottome]

I have been in contact with Dethleffs factory in Germany, they said the fuse was on the EBL (reserv 4a). This was ok. I put in a new one anyway. Checked also all other fuses on the EBL.
Checked with multimeter - it’s no power to the control switch (up/down button) so I think that a broken fuse must be the problem. But I can’t find the fuses for this.
I have also tested the motor both for the front curtain and bed, with + from another sourse and both works ok

 

[tonka]

Quite important to test fuses with a meter and not just look at them. If all ok and dethlefs stated the fuse to check then I would next look at any wiring or the control switch for broken / loose wires. Good luck.

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[ManTheVan]

Quite important to test fuses with a meter and not just look at them. If all ok and dethlefs stated the fuse to check then I would next look at any wiring or the control switch for broken / loose wires. Good luck.

Definitely, re testing fuses. The little blighters can be very tricksy...

 

[Scottome]

Thank u for all good sugestion, tried out all of them. No luck.

There are 4 relés on the side here, see photo, maybee one of them are conectet to the bed and curtain are conectet through one of them? I’m not a reléexpert and don’t know how to measure them to find out if one is broken .
On the pic yuo can see the 4 relés and the line to connect different things. some work with egnition on some without. Both bed and curtain can’t be operated when egnition on and engine running.

 

[Figaro]

The only advice I can give is don't store the beer, drink it

 

[gus-lopez]

Checked with multimeter - it’s no power to the control switch (up/down button) so I think that a broken fuse must be the problem.

Or it could be the feed is coming from the EBL & that is faulty ?

 

[autorouter]

I’m not a reléexpert and don’t know how to measure them to find out if one is broken .

A relay is an electrically operated switch. A small current through a magnetic coil causes a pull, which closes some heavy-duty current contacts. The coil is between terminals 85 and 86. The heavy-duty current contacts are between 30 and 87. If it's a 4-terminal relay, ignore 87a in the diagram.

If you apply 12V across the coil terminals (85 & 86), you should hear a click as the other contacts close. If no click, the relay is faulty.

Using a meter, the resistance between 30 and 87 should be infinite (no continuity) when the coil is not powered. When the coil is powered, the resistance between 30 and 87 should drop to about zero (maybe 0.3 to 0.5 ohms)

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