Peugeot Boxer Drivers Seat Swivel Unit Removal

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Hi funsters, once again I’m seeking advice from you knowledgeable people. I have a 2015 Bailey Autograph 760 on a Peugeot Boxer.
The front seats swivel but having a front dinette with a bulkhead on the offside the drivers swivel function can’t be used properly and I think I can gain approx 1 1/2 inch much needed headroom by removing the swivel plate.
My main concern regards the seat sensor and seat belt tensioner cables as these need to be disconnected/reconnected to remove the swivel unit. Does anyone know if the disconnection and reconnecting of these cables will have any effect on the ecu or dash warning lights or is it the straightforward operation that it seems
Thanks in advance. PeteD.
 
Are you sure that they need to be disconnected, when I fitted the swivel plate to my van I just removed the seat and fitted the swivel plate then put the seat back. Doing the reverse should be similar.
 
Looking at it, it seems that the cables run up through the centre of the swivel unit before going into the seat.
 
It may be different to my 2012 van as I don’t have any cables though the actual swivel plate.
 
You need to disconnect the vehicle battery and wait at least 20 minutes before disconnecting the yellow plug in the cable under the seat. When done, reconnect the yellow plug and finally reconnect the battery.

Battery disconnection is primarily for safety, to prevent the admittedly small chance that a pretensioner could activate if the plug is is disconnected whilst live or having residual current. But as long as the yellow plug is dis and reconnected whilst the battery is isolated, the SRS ECU won't know anything about it so there won't be any fault warning lights to reset.

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Good advice there from Deneb .

I've had my swivels on and off a number of times, and never disconnected the battery. I always turn the ignition off, and take the keys indoors (to prevent me inadvertently turning ignition on!). Then disconnect. I never do anything with the keys until it's back together again.

Also, be aware that the seats are very heavy.

You should gain about 45mm.

Alternatively, lowered seat bases are available (but won't fit if you have seat frame covers fitted).
 
Good advice there from Deneb .

I've had my swivels on and off a number of times, and never disconnected the battery. I always turn the ignition off, and take the keys indoors (to prevent me inadvertently turning ignition on!). Then disconnect. I never do anything with the keys until it's back together again.

Also, be aware that the seats are very heavy.

You should gain about 45mm.

Alternatively, lowered seat bases are available (but won't fit if you have seat frame covers fitted).
I agree, good advice from Deneb but I like the idea of not disconnecting the battery if possible (Radio code input etc.) Can you confirm that your wires come from the seat down to a yellow multi plug and an earth point in the seat squab as mine do.
PS. If I can gain 45mm I will be very pleased. I'm 6.1 and I have to sit low down with the seat in it's lowest position.
 
I`m afraid that there is a great likelihood that disconnecting the SRS will trigger an Error. Wether it will re-set is a moot point?. The Mercedes definitely would not (reset) and had to be Reset via the OBD. £80+Vat quote. The OBD reader cost £80 delivered and did the job (twice now).
 
It won't trigger an error if the battery is disconnected correctly (vehicle allowed to go into sleep mode first, doors shut and key out for 3 minutes) since the SRS ECU will have powered down in a fully operational state, and as long as the plug is reconnected before the battery it will awaken in exactly the same state and will know nothing about any disconnection.

ambulancekidd the connection at the seat squab is to the explosive charge that initiates the seat belt pretensioner, which is the reason that it's not advisable (not permitted according to the vehicle manufacturer) to disconnect SRS plugs or wiring without first disconnecting the battery and waiting at least 20 minutes to allow any residual current to dissipate.
 
It won't trigger an error if the battery is disconnected correctly (vehicle allowed to go into sleep mode first, doors shut and key out for 3 minutes) since the SRS ECU will have powered down in a fully operational state, and as long as the plug is reconnected before the battery it will awaken in exactly the same state and will know nothing about any disconnection.

ambulancekidd the connection at the seat squab is to the explosive charge that initiates the seat belt pretensioner, which is the reason that it's not advisable (not permitted according to the vehicle manufacturer) to disconnect SRS plugs or wiring without first disconnecting the battery and waiting at least 20 minutes to allow any residual current to dissipate.
But not my experience?. I did the biz twice and twice got a SRS fault. It cleared OK and has now (1 year on) stayed clear?. Could be the difference between "Sevel" and Mercedes?.

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Can you confirm that your wires come from the seat down to a yellow multi plug and an earth point in the seat squab as mine do.
Being a bit nerdy, I take photos of many things I do. I just happen to have this, which shows one of mine. The bit on the seat is very yellow, as I recall, and there is an earth (black) cable with it. I can go and have a look (and take a picture) if you want, it's parked on my drive.

No battery disconnected, but it's your decision, I'm not suggesting that you do what I did!

2017 euro 6 Boxer, by the way.
0_IMG_20170304_153403_copy_1305x979.jpg
 
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But not my experience?. I did the biz twice and twice got a SRS fault. It cleared OK and has now (1 year on) stayed clear?. Could be the difference between "Sevel" and Mercedes?.
You'd need to check the proper shutdown procedure for the Sprinter, there are differences between vehicles although it's usually a matter of having the ignition off and doors shut for a certain period of time, then disconnecting the battery without opening the door. Some cars with keyless start initiate a shutdown as soon as the driver's door is opened with the engine off.

I used to do a lot of them in my job, but we had a manual for reference or failing that manufacturer contacts for advice.
 
You'd need to check the proper shutdown procedure for the Sprinter, there are differences between vehicles although it's usually a matter of having the ignition off and doors shut for a certain period of time, then disconnecting the battery without opening the door. Some cars with keyless start initiate a shutdown as soon as the driver's door is opened with the engine off.

I used to do a lot of them in my job, but we had a manual for reference or failing that manufacturer contacts for advice.
Yeh, would have been nice, and possibly saved me a wedge. Mercedes are *********`s for keeping their info close to the chest though!. I had similar issues with a Smart after we did an engine/gearbox swap. Smart/Mercedes where very unforthcoming. I got more info out of the Smart Forums!.
 
I can go and have a look (and take a picture) if you want, it's parked on my drive.
Ok, just been out. This is mine connected up (pulled to one side so that you can see it). The little black cable isn't (and wasn't) connected to anything.
IMG_20200224_195122_copy_756x1008.jpg
 
Ok, just been out. This is mine connected up (pulled to one side so that you can see it). The little black cable isn't (and wasn't) connected to anything.
View attachment 364728
Thanks for that. It is exactly the same setup on mine. Again thanks for your efforts. Pete.

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Hi folks, a quick update.
I decided to take advantage of the good weather here in sunny Stoke today and set to removing the seat swivel. I took the belt and braces approach and disconnected the ehu and the main and hab batteries (the van electric system will charge the main battery when the hab one is charged so removed the linkage)
The job went well and when I connected everything back up and started the engine everything worked, even the radio. Just had to set the various clocks.
PS. The aim was to lower the drivers seat and its suprising how much better the seat position is for that extra 35mm lowering.
Again, thanks for your input and advice which has helped me greatly.
PeteD
 
I know that this is an old thread, but can I just say thanks to everyone, just changed seatbase to a lowered one for my Boxer , followed all the advice, simple!! Thanks so much. Ride feels completely different .Great service and top quality part from Midland Leisure as well
 

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