Motor mover on trailer

TrevChrizy

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Aug 19, 2018
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Norwich
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55,726
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Benimar Tessoro
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25 years
Hi everyone, I know this has been covered before, but I don’t think it has been explained fully how.
Please if you aren’t into towing a trailer behind a motorhome, don’t respond unless you have something constructive to say.
I have just come out of a serious operation and I need additional help in moving the trailer, sometimes in awkward situations and I was thinking of fitting a motor mover, after some investigations and eliminations ( motor jockey wheel, works only on flat ground) I thought fitting a mover, but it doesn’t have the same sub frame system. I wondered if anyone has adapted one to fit on a trailer, what adaptation was made and the complexed fitting it would need, eg cross bracing fitted or removed etc....
Kind regards TrevChrizy
 

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I don't know if it helps or what they usually cost but I've just seen one at Aldi online for £500
 
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I fitted a a used (£200 of ebay) caravan motor mover onto a trailer tent ALKO chassis. Just needed two plates made up, drilled and bolted to chassis and worked a treat.
 
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I don't know if it helps or what they usually cost but I've just seen one at Aldi online for £500
I friend had pointed that out to me, I haven’t followed it up until I had a few responses back to see if it’s the way to go, thanks Wino👍
 
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I have seen a couple of trailers with motor movers but not really paid any attention to how they were fitted. Seems like a sound idea, best of luck!

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I fitted a a used (£200 of ebay) caravan motor mover onto a trailer tent ALKO chassis. Just needed two plates made up, drilled and bolted to chassis and worked a treat.
That’s something I considered, wasn’t sure how strong that would be, I presume you didn’t use the cross bracers, but straight onto the plates you had made? Excellent, thanks Clivefog😉
 
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All the info is in my post above 👍
Just had a look through your info post, excellently thought through, great detail, have you come across purple motor movers, they have a system, not sure how long it’s been in use? It’s called plug and play, very expensive, but I like the idea behind it, instead of being a static system, it can be removed off of fixed brackets and stored away, the battery comes in the pack, sometimes the cheapest options aren’t the best, but being wise is better, so if anyone has had any dealings with this system, your thoughts would be helpful, thanks for that dpsuk999 🤔
 
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Don't forget you will need decent battery on the trailer and a way to keep it charged.

Geoff

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Remember you'll also need somewhere to install a battery and a method of charging. Given the usage profile, I'd suggest a small LiFePO4 will be less hassle than a lead acid. You need to check the discharge rate of the BMS and ensure its peak discharge is greater than the peak mover current and its normal discharge rate is greater than the average mover current. However, you can go for a very low Ah rating (I'd think 20Ah would be enough), so it should be too expensive. In return, you'll get a battery with an extremely low self discharge rate, so you can leave your trailer parked up for months and not return to a knackered battery.
 
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I wonder if you could just rig up jump leads off the car battery if you're only moving it a few feet?
On second thoughts it sounds a bit dodgy.
 
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Easy way to charge it is via a 13 pin caravan socket wired as though the trailer was a caravan. My (designed but not yet installed) method of installation is to fit each mover separately - no cross-tube. The mmvr box section is cut short and terminated in a plate that bolts to the chassis. The upper surface of the box section is bolted up to the trailer bed via another plate. Fitting as on a caravan places the mmvr much lower than it needs to be IMO.
 
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I wonder if you could just rig up jump leads off the car battery if you're only moving it a few feet?
On second thoughts it sounds a bit dodgy.
I think Wino a box is used to fit the battery in and fitted to the A frame of the trailer, it might get a bit tangled if you have a lead to the battery on the car while moving the trailer, although thinking about it, that’s a good point though👍
 
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I think Wino a box is used to fit the battery in and fitted to the A frame of the trailer, it might get a bit tangled if you have a lead to the battery on the car while moving the trailer, although thinking about it, that’s a good point though👍
I just thought that the car battery is likely to be well charged up. As long as it's only going to be moved on the motor mover for a short distance it seems daft fitting a battery to carry a thing with a battery in it!.

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I just thought that the car battery is likely to be well charged up. As long as it's only going to be moved on the motor mover for a short distance it seems daft fitting a battery to carry a thing with a battery in it!.
Thinking more it makes sense, not sure we’re not left any thoughts of the implications this would coarse?
Just surprised no one’s thought of it before 🤪
 
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I wonder if you could just rig up jump leads off the car battery if you're only moving it a few feet?
On second thoughts it sounds a bit dodgy.
I wouldn't use jump leads but an Anderson connector would do the job with the engine running.
Anderson connector could be hidden under the bonnet or accessible from outside.
 
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Easy way to charge it is via a 13 pin caravan socket wired as though the trailer was a caravan. My (designed but not yet installed) method of installation is to fit each mover separately - no cross-tube. The mmvr box section is cut short and terminated in a plate that bolts to the chassis. The upper surface of the box section is bolted up to the trailer bed via another plate. Fitting as on a caravan places the mmvr much lower than it needs to be IMO.
I doubt very much a 13 pin plug and socket would carry the amperage needed.

Oops, just realised you mean to charge the battery, not run the mover.
 
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Is your trailer from Phoenix Trailers? If so they do supply a motor mover system but it’s eyewateringly expensive imo. I haven’t tried moving my trailer with the car on it but when I do move it I lift the front axle off the ground using the jockey wheel.

63237BB7-4C0E-43AE-8984-F7030CEE4ABE.jpeg
 
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I have BJ car trailer with Movers fitted and fitted one of these on top of the battery box and its worked for a number of years without letting me down. Simple but effective and cheap.

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I have BJ car trailer with Movers fitted and fitted one of these on top of the battery box and its worked for a number of years without letting me down. Simple but effective and cheap.
I did go on phoenixes web page and yes your correct, they do fit a mover on there trailer. I sent them an email to see if they could give me more information, what type mover etc, as yet no reply. I’ve come up with another problem, as demonstrated on there twin axle, they have fitted a single mover onto the rear tyre, looking at my rear tyre the mudguard will be a problem!
 

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You are right, as it is the mudguard/flap certainly looks as though it will interfere with fitting. I do not think fitting to the front axle is ideal, so a re-jig of the mudguard would be needed. Not a huge problem but not easy to get it looking good.
Obviously before you rule out any mover you need detailed specs and dimensions. You never know, there may be room.

Geoff
 
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Hi there I recently purchased a Bantam trailer to tow my smart car and fitted to it was a CT1500 Camper trolley which is operated by remote control. If you go to WWW.mover-technology.com you will find them there.. Good luck Ray
 
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A picture of the motor mover

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If it works as well as shown on their web page then it is brilliant. But you have a twin axle trailer, probably about 75g of nose weight. You will need to both transport the mover and fit it every time you wish to move the trailer. You will not be able to leave it fitted, because if you do it will disappear overnight. Most club sites are course gravel, not ideal for that type of mover. Have you tried to steer a twin axle trailer? They just do not want to turn, so you would need to unload the front axle by raising the tow hitch. Not ideal if you have health problems.

I am not knocking this type of mover, but have tried several over the years and found they were all rubbish when faced with twin axles, gravel surface, low nose weight and sloping ground. I have seen caravans run away down slopes with these devices following.

Geoff
 
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My bantam trailer is single axle and works no problem. I agree yes you have to remove it if you leave your trailer parked up but it is easy to remove and reconnect when necessary.
 
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Hi, I had a problem moving our trailer, I used a Mr shifta caravan mover which I found easy to use. Once you got the knack of using it. Having sold the trailer and my motorhome, it is for sale. Last year it had a new battery and a reconditioned motor controller. £ 300.
I used this because it did not put any extra weight on the trailer.
 
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Hi, I had a problem moving our trailer, I used a Mr shifta caravan mover which I found easy to use. Once you got the knack of using it. Having sold the trailer and my motorhome, it is for sale. Last year it had a new battery and a reconditioned motor controller. £ 300.
I used this because it did not put any extra weight on the trailer.
Sorry, how does that help, you would still need to take it with you to move the trailer on site. Also Mr Shifta is a heavy bit of kit and likely to be too much for the OP.
Also, was your trailer a twin axle car trailer weighing in at a tonne and a half?

I have used Mr Shifta movers and they are quite good for single axle trailer/caravans on good hard surface. Show them a bit of gravel, mud or grass combined with twin axle trailer and they are next best thing to useless, even dangerous in some scenarios.

Geoff
 
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I don't have a problem taking it with me and I put it in the garage and use it as and when required. I only use the trailer when travelling to Europe as I use an A frame in the UK.
 
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