Jane & Rog’s Balkans Tour

[dryad]

loving your journey but the video..
puts the pot holes over here to shame..

.

 

[Jane NotRog]

Here’s the map - you can see all three of our Albanian campsites.

 

[HugoBNB]

Excellent blog, again! We are really enjoying your posts. Safe onward travels.

 

[Jane NotRog]

loving your journey but the video..
puts the pot holes over here to shame..

.

I know. I don’t think I’ve been so scared in my adult life…

 

[Langtoftlad]

However, our trip there was beset by difficulties. First, what I had thought was an easy road winding up beside the river turned into a narrow mountain road with steep drops and a dreadful, broken road surface. I was in tears of fear after an hour of this - it was awful.

Here is Rog’s video

Not surprised you were in tears, if he was driving at that speed !

 

[Jane NotRog]

Not surprised you were in tears, if he was driving at that speed !

That was slow motion!

 

[Jane NotRog]

We were instructed to got up early and drove over to the ferry terminal by 8. We actually got there just after 7.30 and we’re immediately ushered onto the boat. We weren’t even the first there. One couple had arrived the night before and slept in their van on the boat.

I’ve reversed Denby onto a few ferries, but nothing like this. The area to turn around in was tiny and the angle between the ramp and shore was extreme. The boat herders chocked the wheels with bits of plank and rope as we tried to get the vans onboard. We still caught at the back. The smell of burning clutch was overpowering and worrying in equal measure. Still, we did better than the spanky new overlander in front of us. It looked like it was the first time he’d engaged reverse.

Once onboard we manoeuvred into position with about 10mm clearance from the railing. We were also given prime position at the front of the boat.

The boat trip is worth the drive, effort and cost - assuming the clutch is ok. The lake travels for miles through steep sided canyons with the odd remote farmhouse and mystery boat mooring to spice up the view.

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Albania has a refreshing lack of rules stuck up everywhere. I think if we’d wanted to swim off the ferry we’d have been allowed. As it was we stuck to climbing over the railings and making coffee in the van.

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Disembarking looked even more challenging as the ferry avoided the concrete dock and pulled up to a shingle beach. As it turned out deboating was uneventful and straightforward.

We drove up the valley to Bajram Curri a small, unlovely town which promised a cash machine, a petrol station with LPG and the promise of supplies. The first two were easy. Shopping for food… less so. There were a few bakeries and fruit shops but nothing selling meat. We eventually scored a couple of pork steaks almost under the counter (Albania is mainly Muslim) in a shop that felt like it was from the Disney Tito Experience. I just wish I’d got a video of jane trying to mime “we want some lamb to roast”. The nice lady sold us the pig for 200lk vs her initial request of 390 since we a) had no change and b) were “tourists? Very nice”. Albania continues to endear us.

Oddly, Bajram Curri is rammed full of British cars. We’ve hardly seen any other British cars in Albania but here every other car had British plates. There were also many shops offering shipping to the UK so we suspect a large ex-pat/returnee population.

Then, back up to the mountains. We drove up the road to Rrorgam between massive rock walls and alongside the turquoise Valvonë. Eventually we reached the Hostel Relindja (///nerves.storerooms.sang) where we stayed the night. It’s lovely here.

We took Flynn up the valley for a swim in the crystal clear Leki Xhemesh (“Lake James” as the bilingual sign rather unromantically pointed out).

Dinner was in the restaurant. The menu was great, maybe you can guess what we ordered.

“Inside mix parts of lamb” was first up. “Oven cheese” next. I also forgot the whole retirement cash flow thing and, on hearing another table told “this is the best wine we have” piped up “we’ll have that too”.

The oven cheese was good, the inside lamb mix was slightly overcooked kidneys in cheese sauce. Thankfully the lamb cooked over fire was excellent, the wine was yummy and we had a Trileque from Bajram Curri stashed in the van.

 

[Jane NotRog]

Yesterday’s map. You can see both end points of our ferry trip, Bajram Curri where we stocked up with fuel and cash, and the Valbona National Park where we are now. The country to the top left is Montenegro, top right is Kosovo.

 

[Jane NotRog]

We decided we did want to return via Italy, partly because it gives us longer in Albania, but also for the thrill of something new.

Rog found the best deal via Mr. Ferry - Adria Ferries (of course) from Durres to Bari, for €279 - van, us, Flynn and pet-friendly outside cabin.

Booking done, we did a beautiful but tough walk up to Valbona - narrow forest paths, and a long, steep climb at one point. The mountains are beautiful and so untouched. See them before it’s too late!

The rain started towards the end of our walk, and so, after showing Flynn the river…

…we were doubly keen on finding somewhere for lunch. The first place we tried looked at us as if we were asking for a chocolate frog, but luckily the second was already gearing up to serve beef stew to all the workmen working on building a massive hotel (I refer you to my comment above).

The beef stew was more of a goulash soup - but delicious, with bread and salad. We took the road most (Rog) and all (me) of the way back - just 3.5 km and 45 minutes, compared to 2.5 hours to do 5.7km off-road and uphill.

The river here is gorgeous- the colour of that clear blue ice-melt is amazing.

Cold though!

Before dinner we played Mindbug - an excellent little game for the motorhome and good fun.

Today we need to get back to better weather. Wish me luck through those mountain passes!

 

[jumartoo]

What another great trip you're having. Love it.

 

[jockaneezer]

Dougal, our GWHP is a bit of a throwback, he was the only one in his litter that didn't develop a shaggy coat. He has a beard and hairy feet (same as the wife !) and people think he's just an "odd" chocolate Lab !
We've got him one of those microfiber zip up bags for him when he comes in wet from a walk and he took to it straight away. Pop him in it in the hallway and by the time you're out of your wet boots and coat, he's nearly dry.
Val probably has a picture of him on her phone, but here's a pic of him enjoying the Coronation !I

 

[Langtoftlad]

The ferry didn't look completely full, given all the fuss about booking - but I suppose weight and size comes into the equation
Brilliant water colour!

 

[Jane NotRog]

Dougal, our GWHP is a bit of a throwback, he was the only one in his litter that didn't develop a shaggy coat. He has a beard and hairy feet (same as the wife !) and people think he's just an "odd" chocolate Lab !
We've got him one of those microfiber zip up bags for him when he comes in wet from a walk and he took to it straight away. Pop him in it in the hallway and by the time you're out of your wet boots and coat, he's nearly dry.
Val probably has a picture of him on her phone, but here's a pic of him enjoying the Coronation !I
View attachment 765699

Lovely boy! We have one of those zip up bags for him, but have never actually used it, seeing as he generally doesn’t take that sort if thing well (understatement of the year).

 

[Jane NotRog]

Langtoftlad i think you’re right. Note all the vans are at the front too. Partially headroom but also balance I think.

Or just Chinese whispers and we could have turned up on the day. We definitely spoke to a cloggie who’s been pushed back to sailing today. He was a 7m yoghurt pot though.

 

[Jane NotRog]

For those waiting for us to break the van in some way and generate a little frisson, I can report that getting onto the ferry almost ripped off the grey water valve. Luckily my Manchester screwdriver made an easy fix.

Less convenient is that the step once half emerges and needs a shove to de-emerge. We’ve repurposed one of flynn’s leads into a rope ladder so Jane can get into the van and I’ll look inside the step when we’re next settled.

 

[Jane NotRog]

To get some sun we’re off to the coast. That means either driving through Kosovo (we can’t), back on the ferry or over the SH23. Here’s some of the route:

They don’t put that many corners in if it’s flat. So not a great day for Jane. But first this:

Before Morocco we had Denby updated to 4.25t, so strictly speaking we couldn’t cross. Also, the state of the bridge lent more credence to the weight limit than those you usually see. However there were impatient Albanians behind us and I reckon no bikes and completely empty on water were more like 3.2t, so over we went.

Obviously I’m posting, to this blog rather than sitting in hospital so we made it ok.
Then 3 hours of twisty roads to torture Jane. Not as bad as the WE’RE TOO CLOSE TO THE EDGE! road to the ferry but she was far from happy. To be fair, I have KEEP BOTH HANDS ON THE WHEEL! history here. I drove her over DON’T LOOK AT THE VIEW! the side on an alpine pass in France on the way to a ski weekend about 20 years ago. One mistake, eh?

From there to an excellent lunch overlooking the lake in Kukes before taking the motorway down to the coast.

We’d really like to barbecue in the hotter weather at the coast but Albanian shops don’t seem to work as we expect. We can’t find anywhere to buy fresh meat. No butcher’s shops, no street markets and the supermarkets are all useless.

Actually, not all useless as our third attempt today was Bio Ju - a small chain of refreshingly posh (Italian)supermarkets. Still no raw meat or fish though.

So on to our stop for the night. Bar Ledzh (///attracting.potting.sundried). It’s a small hippie bar on the sand spot west of Lezhë. Lovely place but we’re by far the oldest people here and Denby looks a little opulent. Reminds me of something you’d find in Thailand.

Flynn loved the beach. We threw a stick for him as we sat on the beach. Without trying. Flynn charmed most of the staff and other campers. Everyone wanted to know his name or throw a stick into the sea for him. The owner of the bar showed us photos of his GWP, who he rescued (stole) as an eleven year old.

As we had another beer and the fire got warmer, the music got better. They might even have played Mezzanine or maybe we imagined that.

 

[Jane NotRog]

We’ve spent a pleasant couple of nights at Kruje Camping (embroidered.trouser.reconciles) - just outside (shock!) - the town of Kruje. The campsite is great - views of the hills and the olives, a functioning washing machine (if by functioning you include “has to be opened with a screwdriver” and warm but slightly feeble showers.

On the drive over, we thought we’s finally scored some lamb to grill. But the butcher turned out to only sell pig parts, and when we asked him via Google Translate where we could buy lamb, the answer was “In Tirana.” It’s as if the only place you could buy chicken thighs in the UK was central London.

We drove on, passing flocks of sheep grazing contentedly* on either side.

*Never troubled with any worries about an abattoir.

We did luck out on a fishmonger in a small town a little further on, and I bought a large trout and what I expected to be 6 big prawns - turned out to be 600g - all for just over 8 quid. So the first night we finally got another bbq.

Kruje is famous for its old bazaar and castle. We explored the former first, and Rog scored a felt hat from what felt (see what I did there?) like the only authentic hand-manufacturer in the town. He certainly was very famous and told us that he had met Dua Lipa - who to Rog’s surprise is Albanian (well, her parents are) and to my surprise, exists.

On our way back, Rog also persuaded me that we should buy a lampshade from the same chap for a pension-crushing £40. He is surprising - only a month ago he was trying to interest me in navy floral bedlinen in Fenwick’s in Canterbury.

Here the chaps are bashing the hole at the top for the electric cord.

This morning Flynn got a good walk town to the picturesque river - the climb back up as the heat of the day was starting to bite was excruciating.

The castle was the centre of Albanian resistance to the Ottoman invasion in the 15th century, which was led by the great national hero Gjergj Kastrioti, also known as Skanderbeg - a massive statue of whom adorns the town.

Although signs assured us that tourists were welcome to explore the tower, we took the complex strapping arrangement and blocked doors as a “no” and just photographed the outside.

We ate at Restaurant Bardhi (sensibly.homecare.venues) - inside the castle and with this amazing view.

The main reason for dining there was that we had been told that they served kabuni for dessert - a rice pudding made with mutton broth and meat. We “suffered” through mixed appetisers and a big oven dish of lamb and potatoes before sharing a portion of the wacky pud - delicious. Flynn, as ever, got a whole meal from our leavings this morning.

 

[Jane NotRog]

Map showing the campsite, castle & restaurant.

By the way, are people enjoying this blog? It doesn’t feel as engaged as Morocco - either Albania is less exciting, more people are off on their own adventures, or we’re not very funny or interesting these days. Probably the latter! I could always leave it and the few who are reading can just sign up to emails from our blog.

 

[jumartoo]

Map showing the campsite, castle & restaurant.

View attachment 767285

By the way, are people enjoying this blog? It doesn’t feel as engaged as Morocco - either Albania is less exciting, more people are off on their own adventures, or we’re not very funny or interesting these days. Probably the latter! I could always leave it and the few who are reading can just sign up to emails from our blog.

Keep going. More people read than comment. I've done some threads over the years that I've been so disappointed with the response from. But I'm doing another this year and so far I've got some responses.

If you give up, I'll follow your blog

 

[Landy Andy]

By the way, are people enjoying this blog? It doesn’t feel as engaged as Morocco - either Albania is less exciting, more people are off on their own adventures, or we’re not very funny or interesting these days. Probably the latter! I could always leave it and the few who are reading can just sign up to emails from our blog.

I think more people consider going to Moroc, than Albania. That is the case for me, but still an interesting read.

 

[Andy1954]

Always find your posts interesting. Please keep posting

 

[DP+JAY]

Really enjoy your posts, informative, well written and amusing - first thing I read each day.

 

[The Boofles]

Yes, please keep posting

 

[scousebird]

Map showing the campsite, castle & restaurant.

View attachment 767285

By the way, are people enjoying this blog? It doesn’t feel as engaged as Morocco - either Albania is less exciting, more people are off on their own adventures, or we’re not very funny or interesting these days. Probably the latter! I could always leave it and the few who are reading can just sign up to emails from our blog.

Keep going please. Even if we've no plans of going to these places I always enjoy reading about other's trips.

 

[Stonemags76]

Don’t stop posting! I love your posts - I’ve subscribed to your blog, but still read the thread on here for extras & other comments!

 

[paddymcc]

Please keep posting, you both write very entertainingly.

 

[PxJ]

Jan, Rog, keep posting as I’ve said before it’s always well written with great pictures & interesting topics for us to digest & think, dream about

 

[lorger]

Yes really enjoy reading your posts, it’s a trip we’d like to do one day.

 

[Grianan]

I’m enjoying this too - yes Morocco is still higher on the list but Albania is now definitely on the list - which it wasn’t before. Scenery amazing but weather a bit dubious!
I have a handful (or fewer) of posts I look out for and check in with every day and yours is one of them. Please don’t stop (or go over to journal format!).

 

[Mike Warland]

Map showing the campsite, castle & restaurant.

View attachment 767285

By the way, are people enjoying this blog? It doesn’t feel as engaged as Morocco - either Albania is less exciting, more people are off on their own adventures, or we’re not very funny or interesting these days. Probably the latter! I could always leave it and the few who are reading can just sign up to emails from our blog.

Enjoying your posts