Jane & Rog’s Balkans Tour (2 Viewers)

Dec 10, 2019
63
120
South West
Funster No
67,290
MH
Low Profile
Exp
Newbie
Hi Jane & Rog.

I am following your travels with interest, we are crossing over to Dieppe on Monday heading to Slovenia so will be following your direction of travel, we are hoping to follow part of the Romantic Road in Germany before crossing into Austria then Into Slovenia, back through Italy and France.

It looks like you travel long distances some days I am hoping to keep our travel days to 2-3 hours.

Looking forward to the rest of your posts, I wish I had had your relaxed writing style.
 
OP
OP
Jane And Rog

Jane And Rog

LIFE MEMBER
Jan 19, 2019
1,153
6,672
Ashford, Kent
Funster No
58,099
MH
Adria Twin 640 SGX
Exp
Since 2017
Hi Jane & Rog.

I am following your travels with interest, we are crossing over to Dieppe on Monday heading to Slovenia so will be following your direction of travel, we are hoping to follow part of the Romantic Road in Germany before crossing into Austria then Into Slovenia, back through Italy and France.

It looks like you travel long distances some days I am hoping to keep our travel days to 2-3 hours.

Looking forward to the rest of your posts, I wish I had had your relaxed writing style.
We tend to travel quickly until our goal, or until better weather. I think we’re slowing down now.
 
OP
OP
Jane And Rog

Jane And Rog

LIFE MEMBER
Jan 19, 2019
1,153
6,672
Ashford, Kent
Funster No
58,099
MH
Adria Twin 640 SGX
Exp
Since 2017
Up bright and early, or rather, dull and post-rainy. Because of the weather we decided not do a long dog walk and/or wait two hours for the Museum of Astonishment to open, and set off for Slovenia.

We stopped just over the border to buy our vignette, with legs crossed as the toilets were charging 50c per head, or rather, per bladder. That’s nearly 10 shillings in the old money, I said to Rog, like the sad old git that I am. (Obviously we used Denby’s facilities when we got back, we were just sparing the cassette a little!)

Our vignette was €15 for 7 days, and this time they took our number plate, so I assume the checks are done via ANPR.

It was a short hop to Bled and the aire (unnaturally.explores.experiencing). This costs a massive €25 in the shoulder season, and has to be in cash, so I was dispatched to the nearby supermarket for change. Maybe we should have gone for the campsite to avoid the ambiance of the aire, which is very “hinterland car park” - but the former was even more expensive and away from the town - more what we’ll want when the weather is good enough to cook outside. On our first day in the country, we fancy trying some Slovene cuisine.

IMG_3119.jpeg


That said, the weather was certainly a good 7 degrees warmer this side of the Alps. We walked down through town to the lake, and on the way we were both wishing we’d worn shorts. Although the lake is rather too commercialised (Windermere vibes), there were certainly some picture postcard views. In the background to the right is Bled Castle - medieval in origin and the oldest castle in the country.

IMG_6761.jpeg


In the foreground is Bled Island, with its church of St Mary - a Baroque church with some fragments of frescoes from the 15th century. Apparently there’s a wishing bell that you can ring to ask for your wishes to be granted by the Virgin herself. If only I could get there to ring it, I’d wish that the boats allowed dogs, so that I could get there to ring it.

Flynn enjoyed plenty of lake swims, making up for most of the walk being on lead.

IMG_3124.jpeg


IMG_3129.jpeg


We continued our walk all around the perimeter of the lake, ending up back in town with a ice cream for Rog, half an ice cream for me, and one and a half for greedy guts, aka Flynn.

IMG_6766.jpeg


The total walk was just over 8km, and very flat and easy, although rather too manicured and touristed for my liking. I did have one moment of excitement towards the end when I thought I’d spotted a bar specialising in my favourite tipple - sadly it turns out that a kava bar is a coffee bar. Disappointed.

IMG_3141.jpeg


After a lazy afternoon and a shower (wow, this is so much better than the Morocco trip without hot water!), we set off for a night on the town, or rather, being us, an early evening on the town.

First stop was “just any bar with a great view” and we found one with a stunning view over the lake to the castle, although for 15 minutes it had a total lack of waitpersons. I’d already perused the wine menu and decided on a “Peneca’s Guilt” - which Rog’s more manual use of Google Translate assured me was sparkling wine.

IMG_6767.jpg



We ate at a restaurant called “Our Story,” where our story was a tale of gluttony for octopus cooked over coals, which was delicious. Again we had plenty of food to take away - we think there’s a whole portion of yummy spuds we can use in our next meal, plus plenty more bits and pieces for Flynn. An excellent bottle of local red washed it down - a very good meal indeed.


IMG_3146.jpeg

Subscribers  do not see these advertisements

 

Poms_from_Adelaide

Free Member
Jan 24, 2018
95
434
Funster No
52,099
That does sound like our sort of thing, but the Park for night reviews are quite mixed and someone said it was €60 a night?
Gosh that’s pricey! We definitely wouldn’t have paid that (as my other half’s nickname is Tintin Tightwad!). ‘‘Twas a few years ago and pre Covid when we were there though so maybe they’re trying to make up for lost income now. Shame.
 

lorger

LIFE MEMBER
Jul 11, 2008
9,697
90,870
Dumfries
Funster No
3,262
MH
Knaus Sun 650MEG
Exp
2007
When we stayed at Lake Bled I got up early one morning for a run round the lake, I was pleasantly surprised to see a couple of naked young ladies going for a swim. I ran every morning after that 😂😂

We have friends in Ljubljana and stayed on their drive for a few days and really loved the city, our daughter has been back to stay with them a couple of times and always enjoys it.
 

Poms_from_Adelaide

Free Member
Jan 24, 2018
95
434
Funster No
52,099
Just checked back on my notes and there is a good free spot (with free EHU) at a place called Dolgi Most for exploring Ljubjana - also had free electric bikes there I seem to remember. Or not that far away a lovely little place called Skofja Loka with free Motorhome parking and a great restaurant at the local Gostilna - in an old grain store.

Are you planning a visit to the Lippizaner Horsebreeding stables?
 

Poms_from_Adelaide

Free Member
Jan 24, 2018
95
434
Funster No
52,099
Gosh that’s pricey! We definitely wouldn’t have paid that (as my other half’s nickname is Tintin Tightwad!). ‘‘Twas a few years ago and pre Covid when we were there though so maybe they’re trying to make up for lost income now. Shame.
This is the one we stayed at https://park4night.com/en/place/10979

and if you're anywhere near Vransko - this was a lovely place (also a motorbike museum just nearby which made TTTW very happy!) https://park4night.com/en/place/66296

Subscribers  do not see these advertisements

 
OP
OP
Jane And Rog

Jane And Rog

LIFE MEMBER
Jan 19, 2019
1,153
6,672
Ashford, Kent
Funster No
58,099
MH
Adria Twin 640 SGX
Exp
Since 2017
Jun 30, 2011
7,266
20,230
Barnard Castle, UK
Funster No
17,128
MH
Concorde Concerto
Exp
Since 2007
Today was mainly driving. We left Weingut Erlenwein to join a queue of traffic stretching all the way to our destination in Bernal am Chiemsee. Germany is a country of religious conservatives and as today being Ascension day, everyone over the age of 18 has strapped bikes to the back of their BMW and are heading towards anywhere that involves a moderate to long queue of traffic. 400km took us the best part of seven hours including an obligatory sausage break (not pictured).

The campsite we chose (Wohnmobilpark Bernau, uneven.rusted.saucy) is connected to the local sports hall and gets middling reviews but, it’s actually pretty good. Maybe a bit towards the car park aesthetic as these things go but the showers are good and the backdrop to the dog walks on the doorstep are great.

View attachment 754673

The other thing every single German was doing today was booking a table at one of the three restaurants in Bernal am Chiemsee. We walked into town to be turned away from each before rushing back to the bar attached to the tennis club hoping to beat all the other residents to the last table. Success 🎉. We chose from the short menu: hammered pork breadcrumbed, cheesecrumbed or nothingcrumbed all served with chips and beer or wine (obviously cheese is the correct answer). Not what we’d hoped for but all that looking at e-bikes on the back of a stationary X5 does make you peckish and we tucked in.

View attachment 754674

We’re now within spitting distance of the border. We’ve been to Vienna before but not the rest of Austria. Our first task on crossing the border will be to get ourselves acquainted with Austria’s needlessly complicated toll system.

- Rog
Pork schnitzel, it looks lovely one of our favourites as Caz used to live in Germany
 
OP
OP
Jane And Rog

Jane And Rog

LIFE MEMBER
Jan 19, 2019
1,153
6,672
Ashford, Kent
Funster No
58,099
MH
Adria Twin 640 SGX
Exp
Since 2017
Just checked back on my notes and there is a good free spot (with free EHU) at a place called Dolgi Most for exploring Ljubjana - also had free electric bikes there I seem to remember. Or not that far away a lovely little place called Skofja Loka with free Motorhome parking and a great restaurant at the local Gostilna - in an old grain store.

Are you planning a visit to the Lippizaner Horsebreeding stables?

Yes, I’d like to - are they worth a visit?
 
OP
OP
Jane And Rog

Jane And Rog

LIFE MEMBER
Jan 19, 2019
1,153
6,672
Ashford, Kent
Funster No
58,099
MH
Adria Twin 640 SGX
Exp
Since 2017
Our main event today was the Postojna caves. Although I tend to a slightly blasé feeling of seen one, seen them all, I’m aware that one of the risks of growing older is to feel like this, so despite the enormous cost we decided we shouldn’t miss these caverns. They are massive - over 24 km long, and one of the longest in the world. There is a 2.5km train ride before you even start your guided tour.

IMG_6798.jpeg


The caves really were very impressive. They are at a constant 10 degrees centigrade, so our down jackets got a surprise wear, after feeling rather depressed and unneeded now it’s 20 degrees in the shade.

IMG_3159.jpeg


IMG_6793.jpeg


IMG_6786.jpeg


We decided on a rural campsite where we could cook outside, and really lucked out with Dujceva Domacija campsite (skimmer.grievance.engage) - a massive grassy field wrapped by the river Reka.

IMG_6804.jpeg


After choosing a spot with evening sun, we walked Flynn along the river and back. It would be a great place to bring a canoe.

IMG_6802.jpeg


Then we barbecued some pork belly, along with last night’s potatoes to which I added some wild garlic which we’d picked on our walk, and some leftover red cabbage from home, which I’d pickled with red onion, chilli and a little honey.

IMG_6808.jpeg


It was all washed down with the excellent white wine from our German vineyard a few days ago.

IMG_3203.jpeg


A little later the campsite owner drove by, The damage was €25. Not too bad - it’s not particularly cheap here in Slovenia. But it’s definitely our kind of campsite.

IMG_3208.jpeg
IMG_6804.jpeg
 

Mikey RV

LIFE MEMBER
Mar 7, 2010
4,931
24,434
Devon
Funster No
10,532
MH
Burstner Elegance I821G
Exp
Since 1977
Just caught up with this thread. Loving it. (y)

Subscribers  do not see these advertisements

 
OP
OP
Jane And Rog

Jane And Rog

LIFE MEMBER
Jan 19, 2019
1,153
6,672
Ashford, Kent
Funster No
58,099
MH
Adria Twin 640 SGX
Exp
Since 2017
We were just saying on the drive today how well things have gone so far. The water hasn’t leaked… No trees have leapt to their death before Denby’s wheels... Heating and hot water both function as expected.

But ha, never tempt fate! Anyone willing to guess what this evening’s mishap might be? Clue - it involves a squid dinner and incipient Alzheimer’s in one of our party. And Flynn is only 8.
 
OP
OP
Jane And Rog

Jane And Rog

LIFE MEMBER
Jan 19, 2019
1,153
6,672
Ashford, Kent
Funster No
58,099
MH
Adria Twin 640 SGX
Exp
Since 2017
It took the sun a while to reach the bottom of the valley so it was fairly cold and damp as we broke camp. We walked Flynn along the Slovenia Mountain trail. I say “along” but we went about 5km of its 617km total. As it gets hot, Flynn becomes a self propelled mud seeking missile. We thought we were safe as the river was dry. Doggo had other ideas.

IMG_6830.jpeg


We drove on a while before leaving Flynn to consider his personal hygiene whilst we inspected the Lipizzan horses at the Lipica stud farm (apron.colognes.treats). Monday is the day off for the trainers so the place was empty. The trainers may have the day off but it’s also spring so the lady horses all had puppies. They’re black for the first four years and then turn white.

IMG_6856.jpeg

IMG_3230.jpeg

If you can muster €40 and prove you know what you’re doing you can have a go at riding them but we’re not quite good enough - and €40 is nearly fifty shillings! Instead Jane got to sit on a vegan horse substitute.
IMG_3251.jpeg


Wisely jane consulted the handy guide to horse expressions before mounting. However I’d say this one was a little more “about to kick you” than dissatisfied.
IMG_6867.jpeg


Then south to the Holy Trinity church in Hrastovlje (sparrow.booklets.eligibility). It’s a tiny fortified church, about 500 years old. You have to call a nice lady and give her three euros to get in. You want to get in because in 1949 when the plaster was removed the original 15C frescoes were intact. The nice lady played connected her phone to a speaker and played an MP3 describing the frescoes whilst she pointed at them with a stick. There was an interlude between the old and new testaments whilst she stopped playback to call her son ask what he wanted for tea.
IMG_3254.jpeg

Luckily the “no photos” sign on the wall was more of a suggestion than a hard rule. I was brought up visiting obscure churches to crick my neck looking at frescoes of Adam and Eve being expulsed from the garden of eden so I reckon I’m a bit of an expert. This was a cracker. With a danse macabre to round things off I think it’s the best value we’ve had in Slovenia.

IMG_3264.jpeg


Animals and religious building duties complete we called it a day and drove on to ANOTHER NEW COUNTRY! Without even really noticing! It’s difficult to tell Croatia from Slovenia - the language looks identical to foreign eyes, everyone is using Euros and the road signs are based on the Yugoslavian designs. Having been around in the 90s I can’t help parenthesising any city name round here with some combination of “NATO forces”, “bombing” and “massive”. So much blood was shed making loads of tiny countries out of Yugoslavia now they’re all rushing back into Europe and dismantling their hard won borders and currencies.

IMG_3271.jpeg


Anyhoo, we stayed the night at Camping Opatija (leads.freebie.forest) on first impressions we didn’t like this part of Crovenia. Although the view from our pitch is nice:

IMG_6894.jpeg

It is very built up and felt like the South of France. In the evening we walked down to the marina and it charmed us. We had a drink at a random beach bar (didnt.get.location) watching the boats come and go. We then returned, along the sea wall, to Lučica Ičići (spellbound.over.disrobed) for dinner.

“Sorry the kitchen closes at 7pm” the waitperson greeted us (it was exactly 7pm)

“We eat quickly…” we pleaded.

Convinced by Jane’s hungry face, she snuck us in as long as we ate deep fried food. Luckily the fried squids and whitebaits were delicious.
IMG_3274.jpeg

We got back to the van, rescued Flynn and had a cuppa. Then I discovered the awful mishap. I’ve finally been hectored into carrying a bag rather than asking Jane to tuck my spare contact lenses and incontinence pants into her handbag. It’s a complicated thing having a bag and I can’t say I’m fully expert yet. There seem to be three basic rules:
  1. Put everything you might need during the day in the bag
  2. Don’t complain if your definition of “might need” is too broad and the bag is too heavy
  3. Remember to take it with you wherever you move.
I thought rule 1 was my worst failing but 3 is where I came unstuck and to be honest it feels like the most important rule in hindsight. Luckily the bag is full of Apple AirTags (vis rule 1) so I know it is now secure in Lučica Ičići for me to retrieve when they open at 11 tomorrow.

IMG_3286.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Feb 18, 2018
3,447
11,636
South Ayrshire
Funster No
52,460
MH
Globecar Campscout
Exp
Since 2018
It took the sun a while to reach the bottom of the valley so it was fairly cold and damp as we broke camp. We walked Flynn along the Slovenia Mountain trail. I say “along” but we went about 5km of its 617km total. As it gets hot, Flynn becomes a self propelled mud seeking missile. We thought we were safe as the river was dry. Doggo had other ideas.

View attachment 756721

We drove on a while before leaving Flynn to consider his personal hygiene whilst we inspected the Lipizzan horses at the Lipica stud farm (apron.colognes.treats). Monday is the day off for the trainers so the place was empty. The trainers may have the day off but it’s also spring so the lady horses all had puppies. They’re black for the first four years and then turn white.

View attachment 756722
View attachment 756724
If you can muster €40 and prove you know what you’re doing you can have a go at riding them but we’re not quite good enough - and €40 is nearly fifty shillings! Instead Jane got to sit on a vegan horse substitute.
View attachment 756723

Wisely jane consulted the handy guide to horse expressions before mounting. However I’d say this one was a little more “about to kick you” than dissatisfied.
View attachment 756746

Then south to the Holy Trinity church in Hrastovlje (sparrow.booklets.eligibility). It’s a tiny fortified church, about 500 years old. You have to call a nice lady and give her three euros to get in. You want to get in because in 1949 when the plaster was removed the original 15C frescoes were intact. The nice lady played connected her phone to a speaker and played an MP3 describing the frescoes whilst she pointed at them with a stick. There was an interlude between the old and new testaments whilst she stopped playback to call her son ask what he wanted for tea.
View attachment 756725
Luckily the “no photos” sign on the wall was more of a suggestion than a hard rule. I was brought up visiting obscure churches to crick my neck looking at frescoes of Adam and Eve being expulsed from the garden of eden so I reckon I’m a bit of an expert. This was a cracker. With a danse macabre to round things off I think it’s the best value we’ve had in Slovenia.

View attachment 756728

Animals and religious building duties complete we called it a day and drove on to ANOTHER NEW COUNTRY! Without even really noticing! It’s difficult to tell Croatia from Slovenia - the language looks identical to foreign eyes, everyone is using Euros and the road signs are based on the Yugoslavian designs. Having been around in the 90s I can’t help parenthesising any city name round here with some combination of “NATO forces”, “bombing” and “massive”. So much blood was shed making loads of tiny countries out of Yugoslavia now they’re all rushing back into Europe and dismantling their hard won borders and currencies.

View attachment 756729

Anyhoo, we stayed the night at Camping Opatija (leads.freebie.forest) on first impressions we didn’t like this part of Crovenia. Although the view from our pitch is nice:

View attachment 756730
It is very built up and felt like the South of France. In the evening we walked down to the marina and it charmed us. We had a drink at a random beach bar (didnt.get.location) watching the boats come and go. We then returned, along the sea wall, to Lučica Ičići (spellbound.over.disrobed) for dinner.

“Sorry the kitchen closes at 7pm” the waitperson greeted us (it was exactly 7pm)

“We eat quickly…” we pleaded.

Convinced by Jane’s hungry face, she snuck us in as long as we ate deep fried food. Luckily the fried squids and whitebaits were delicious.
View attachment 756720
We got back to the van, rescued Flynn and had a cuppa. Then I discovered the awful mishap. I’ve finally been hectored into carrying a bag rather than asking Jane to tuck my spare contact lenses and incontinence pants into her handbag. It’s a complicated thing having a bag and I can’t say I’m fully expert yet. There seem to be three basic rules:
  1. Put everything you might need during the day in the bag
  2. Don’t complain if your definition of “might need” is too broad and the bag is too heavy
  3. Remember to take it with you wherever you move.
I thought rule 1 was my worst failing but 3 is where I came unstuck and to be honest it feels like the most important rule in hindsight. Luckily the bag is full of Apple AirTags (vis rule 1) so I know it is now secure in Lučica Ičići for me to retrieve when they open at 11 tomorrow.

View attachment 756731
Great post Rog! Always thought it was Jane who was the writer (sorry) but now I discover you both have the skills to write an informative, interesting (and humorous) blog. I do hope you retrieve your incontinence pads before you need them tomorrow.

Subscribers  do not see these advertisements

 
OP
OP
Jane And Rog

Jane And Rog

LIFE MEMBER
Jan 19, 2019
1,153
6,672
Ashford, Kent
Funster No
58,099
MH
Adria Twin 640 SGX
Exp
Since 2017
My run this morning was fantastic - along a stone walkway to the west, crystal clear sea on one side and rambling old Baroque mansions on the other. Sadly I don’t have a photo as my phone was occupied with my bossy running app and refused to let me so much as think about stopping.

At the end of my run, I called in at last night’s restaurant and collected Rog’s bag. Luckily his wallet and cards were still there. Unluckily, his €50 in cash wasn’t. Chances are that someone working at the restaurant nicked it - a passer-by would have taken the whole bag. But with no proof, there was nothing we could do.

We then decided to stop at Decathlon for running shorts for me, and then in Rijeka for the “Peek and Poke” computer museum and the fish market. Only the first part of this plan worked out.

Rijeka was more stuffed with people and their cars than my stomach is at Christmas after turkey and the trimmings. We made a couple of laps pf the car park, which showed no signs of having the promised motorhome parking, or indeed any parking of any description. On the last lap, we were following this truck, which was lifting illegally parked cars out of the way. What will this coast be like in July and August? It must be unbearable.

IMG_6899.jpeg


Now to acquire fish. Finally achieved on the third supermarket we stopped at our our way to Krk! The supermarkets were rather disappointing generally - their shelves not laden with delicious new things to try, but with rather sad fruit and veg, and very little meat. Even this one had a mostly bare fish counter, with just these grey mullet (maybe?).

IMG_6900.jpeg


Our destination was Camping Punta Jerta Pineziči, which gets rave reviews on Park for Night, and sounded like an ideal place to unwind for a couple of nights - isolated and peaceful. Of course, given today’s luck, it was full.

We ended up just outside the town of Krk, in Ježevac Premium Camping Resort. I’ve never seen anything like the registration process. Denby queued up in one of two registration lanes.

IMG_3294.jpeg


I was welcomed by a greeter, and told to take a ticket and wait for my number, which, after a few minutes, was called by an American computer voice. I’ve seen small countries with less officious entry systems!

IMG_6901.jpeg


I dithered over the very expensive pitch with the view over the Adriatic, but in the end plumped for the ACSI pitch at the back for €23. If everything had been cheaper so far this trip, the decision might have been different.

We explored Krk, all narrow stone streets and little shops around a lovely port. If it’s €80 for a pitch by the sea, what must the big yachts be paying?

IMG_3303.jpeg



Flynn and I had a swim on the way back. My first time in the Adriatic! The water was clear and not too cold, and I saw quite a few different fish with my new, top-of-the-range Decathlon goggles (€10).

IMG_3309.jpeg


Talking of which, we had a very tasty barbecue later that evening. Those grey-mullets-maybe were delicious, as were (polishes fingernails) my garlic potatoes.

IMG_6904.jpeg


IMG_6906.jpeg


Perhaps the Adriatic coastline will be too busy and costly for us. Maybe we should go inland, via Bosnia…
 

Poms_from_Adelaide

Free Member
Jan 24, 2018
95
434
Funster No
52,099
A friend of mine has just finished a trip on the Ghan (the train that runs through the middle of Australia - and costs huge $$$) - apparently pretty much all of their fellow travellers were 'planning a trip to Croatia this year too".

I've been thinking of Croatia and Bosnia for 2024 but I do hate going to popular places - at the moment I'm working on 7nights Croatia, 7nights Bosnia, 7 nights Croatia but from the sound of how busy Croatia is already, that might have to change! If you are in and around the Plitvice National Park, there's an underground airbase at Zeljava that looks intriguing (online, anyway)....
 
OP
OP
Jane And Rog

Jane And Rog

LIFE MEMBER
Jan 19, 2019
1,153
6,672
Ashford, Kent
Funster No
58,099
MH
Adria Twin 640 SGX
Exp
Since 2017
Did you read this bit though?

“Today the abandoned airbase lies on the border of Croatia and the Bosnian Federation, with the line dividing the countries running through the middle of the property. Extreme caution needs to be used when approaching this site, due to the large number of unexploded landmines and other munitions there. The police force of the Bosnian Federation uses the area of the airbase to train its K9 core in explosive retrieval.”

Subscribers  do not see these advertisements

 

Join us or log in to post a reply.

To join in you must be a member of MotorhomeFun

Join MotorhomeFun

Join us, it quick and easy!

Log in

Already a member? Log in here.

Latest journal entries

Funsters who are viewing this thread

Back
Top