Inside handle on sliding doors — DIY tip

[Dorwyn]

It does make you wonder if MH designers ever use their vans. My Autotrail Tribute came without an inside mid door handle. This means that you have to really slam the door with the front handle, relying on speed to close it noisily and firmly. And we know how popular that is with our plastic door neighbours.,

The inside door panel on my van is held on by plastic poppers. So I released those toward the front of the panel, and found that the poppers are fitted into 8.5 mm holes. So I inserted 25mm mate bolts into two of these holes suitably positioned in the middle of the door, from the back, and holding them with a spanner inside the door,and held them in with a nut on the other side. I then replaced the door panel, and cut an old leather belt to size, cut suitably situated holes in the belt, and fitted the belt over the ends of the bolts. Inserted chrome domed nuts over the bolts, and job done. Using this handle the door is pulled forward and inwards, and requires much less effort and associated noise to close the door. We are very pleased with the results. It works first time each time

, and never needs re-slamming.

 

[Dorwyn]

On re reading that, I'm not sure it is too clear. Hope you get the idea

 

[Dorwyn]

Oh yes, and while I had the door panel open, I realised that there was NO INSULATION inside. I'd have thought that any self-respecting converter would have inserted insulation before any panels were sealed. I've done vans before and that was for me a first priority. I did ask the salesman were the vans well insulated. "Of course", he said. I wondered why his nose grew! So anyway, I also sorted that, if only for that door. Now I'm thinking about the rear doors and panels. The rest I can't get at of course.

 

[GPW]

I'd have thought that any self-respecting converter would have inserted insulation before any panels were sealed. I've done vans before and that was for me a first priority.

It appears that while DIY converters obsess over every little gap, commercial ones don't worry about it. I've DIY insulated a van myself, I think one just gets into it but at the end of the day the windows probably make more difference, DIY ones are usually single glazed, commercial double glazed.

 

[Mikeco]

It appears that while DIY converters obsess over every little gap, commercial ones don't worry about it. I've DIY insulated a van myself, I think one just gets into it but at the end of the day the windows probably make more difference, DIY ones are usually single glazed, commercial double glazed.

I believe that most diy converters would, like I did, buy the same windows that the commercial converters use such as Setz, which are double glazed, or rather double plastic.

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[GPW]

I believe that most diy converters would, like I did, buy the same windows that the commercial converters use such as Setz, which are double glazed, or rather double plastic.

Ah OK, I've only seen the youtube videos when they stick on the tinted van windows onto the outside, and MPV conversions. Is Setz a make or a Dometic brand?

A DIY van should generally be pretty well insulated - better I suspect than most commercial ones.

ETA: I've seen a few single glazed new VW conversions at shows too!

 

[Dorwyn]

I believe that most diy converters would, like I did, buy the same windows that the commercial converters use such as Setz, which are double glazed, or rather double plastic.

My van has seven DG windows in the rear and 2 roof-lights! Plus of course the toilet breathing tube stack. Added to all that are the single glazed cab windows.

 

[GPW]

When it's sunny the big front screen turns a van into a greenhouse anyway, I suppose a big wrap around external cover is good for that.

 

[Dorwyn]

When it's sunny the big front screen turns a van into a greenhouse anyway, I suppose a big wrap around external cover is good for that.

I've just got a single glazed silver one for that, it does work.