I need to Vent :-)

I

Insider

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Looking for some advice. I have an Autocruise Forte(2016 Fiat Ducato chassis) and have changed the batteries to two Varta LFD90s. As they are a semi sealed battery I did not install a venting kit(with some misapprehension but after lots of reading up). I am now in the process of installing a Sterling 60A B2B charger and thinking it would be safer to add in a vent for the batteries. They are under the seat in the front dinette so I perhaps have two options.

1: Drill through van floor, 3D print a tube and mastic it both ends and then feed venting tube through and mastic that in place.

or

2: As part of running the B2B cables to the vehicle battery I could also run the venting tube inside some copex and join the venting tube into the vehicle battery venting tube.

Learning as I go so would welcome input on this.

TIA
 
Just an observation; as venting battery gas can be inflammable may not be a good idea to run electrical cables along the same route as a battery vent, even if everything is fully insulated. It's possible getting the battery in and out could damage cables.

Personally I'd keep them separate - go for option 1.
 
As an FYI. Same battery as described has vents fitted by burstner from the factory
 
Agree, Option 1 best.

I vented my two Varta batteries by feeding the 2 vent tubes to a plastic T-piece and then a single tube through the floor.
 
Option 1 sounds like a good idea

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I think you don't need to vent then they are sealed
 
Wagoneer said:
Agree, Option 1 best.

I vented my two Varta batteries by feeding the 2 vent tubes to a plastic T-piece and then a single tube through the floor.
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I did the same.

Batteries after 3.jpg
 
K R B said:
I think you don't need to vent then they are sealed
Click to expand...
My understanding is they are semi sealed. They use a recombination technology and are unlikely to gas off but have all the ingredients to do so and if a problem with the charging device occurs and they receive too much charge they have the ability to gas off. In normal use they should not gas off. I'm looking at this like a seat belt. Hope to never need it but still always wear it. I don't want to destroy inside of van or brain cells so being extra careful.
 
I take on board the danger of running the venting tube next to electrical cables which I had not thought about - thank you. Option 1 appears to be the way to go. Anything in particular to watch out for other than being phenomenally careful as to where I drill?

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I would suggest that when you run the vent tube you make sure that the end is clear of any bodywork as any condensate in the gas being vented is likely to be corrosive, I have seen this on motorcycles where the battery vent was near to the swinging arm and there was a lot of corrosion near the end of the tube.
 
Insider said:
Can I ask - why the fuse between the two batteries? If I could be half as neat I'd be very happy btw
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Proper installation calls for individual batteries to be fused. If one fails it doesn’t take the other with it, or dump the energy into the failed one. Every source needs protection. Two batts are two sources, three are three sources, joined to a common stud or buss bar.
The venting it does happen if you push them hard on charging or discharging. If you have vent tube take off, you should vent. The sealed ones have a different pressure valve to the ones with take off provided. The latter is a low pressure valve, that is more likely to open. This indicates the construction type( sealed flooded or VRLA valve regulated lead acid). The agm’s usually are sealed and no take offs, like gell’s, but not all. Some motorbike agm’s , do have take offs due to high surge of cranking, hence possible venting.
 
ChrisL said:
I would suggest that when you run the vent tube you make sure that the end is clear of any bodywork as any condensate in the gas being vented is likely to be corrosive, I have seen this on motorcycles where the battery vent was near to the swinging arm and there was a lot of corrosion near the end of the tube.
Click to expand...
👍
Raul said:
Proper installation calls for individual batteries to be fused. If one fails it doesn’t take the other with it, or dump the energy into the failed one. Every source needs protection. Two batts are two sources, three are three sources, joined to a common stud or buss bar.
The venting it does happen if you push them hard on charging or discharging. If you have vent tube take off, you should vent. The sealed ones have a different pressure valve to the ones with take off provided. The latter is a low pressure valve, that is more likely to open. This indicates the construction type( sealed flooded or VRLA valve regulated lead acid). The agm’s usually are sealed and no take offs, like gell’s, but not all. Some motorbike agm’s , do have take offs due to high surge of cranking, hence possible venting.
Click to expand...
Understood. Given that you typically choose the fuse to protect the cable what size fuse do you have on such a short run. I would assume it will be substantially less than what the cable could carry and would be 10 to 20A above your highest potential draw?
 
As a example I have interconnects cables of 35mm for two batteries in paralel. Each battery is fused with a 80a midi fuse. That gives me 160a charge/discharge. Cable could take 200a with ease for my run.
After the buss bar the main draw (inverter) is fused again with 150a maxi fuse for inverter. The dc distribution panel, is fed and fused with a 40a midi, the B2B fused with 30a midi, and solar charger fused with midi 50a. All to the buss bar.

C7E5C714-4F54-41AD-A6F0-2756D2E7BDA2.jpeg

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Insider said:
Can I ask - why the fuse between the two batteries? If I could be half as neat I'd be very happy btw
Click to expand...
Raul nailed this one but in addition, if your batteries are in different locations or there's ANY chance the interconnecting V+ cable can be damaged or shorted to earth you should fit a fuse at BOTH ends of the cable near the batteries as possible.
Reason..... If the cable should short to earth the single fuse will blow BUT the other battery is still shorted to earth.
Two fuses ensures BOTH batteries are disconnected from earth.
 
I'm not sure exactly where the batteries are, ie under the driver's seat or the actual twin dinette seat. If the former and you don't want to drill a new hole through the floor see if you can feed the tube down into the driver's side step - if you remove the plastic cover you'll see there are some rubber plugs in there already which you can drill a hole through, that's how I got the wiring for a reversing camera (which had been run under the camper) up into the cab.
 
When I read the title of this thread "I need to vent" I thought: I'll make a cup of tea before I read the rest of it and then I'll sit back and enjoy reading someone's suffering.
I was so disappointed I dropped my Hob Nob in the mug.
I will now have to go away and look for a toilet thread. They're so much more interesting than batteries.
😩

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Same here ... I thought someone had something interesting to moan about ... batteries just don't give the same buzz! :giggle:
 
I was going to suggest fewer pulses in your diet! 😀
 
Didn’t have a scabby guessed 2 correct.😂

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Insider said:
Looking for some advice. I have an Autocruise Forte(2016 Fiat Ducato chassis) and have changed the batteries to two Varta LFD90s. As they are a semi sealed battery I did not install a venting kit(with some misapprehension but after lots of reading up). I am now in the process of installing a Sterling 60A B2B charger and thinking it would be safer to add in a vent for the batteries. They are under the seat in the front dinette so I perhaps have two options.

1: Drill through van floor, 3D print a tube and mastic it both ends and then feed venting tube through and mastic that in place.

or

2: As part of running the B2B cables to the vehicle battery I could also run the venting tube inside some copex and join the venting tube into the vehicle battery venting tube.

Learning as I go so would welcome input on this.

TIA
Click to expand...
unless you are looking to justify buying a 3d printer all they need is windscreen washer tube and a tee drilled through the floor and sealed
 
mitzimad said:
unless you are looking to justify buying a 3d printer all they need is windscreen washer tube and a tee drilled through the floor and sealed
Click to expand...

More like retrosepctively justifying the purchase 2 years ago!! Love it as a hobby though.
vent top.png
vent bottom.png
 
Raul said:
As a example I have interconnects cables of 35mm for two batteries in paralel. Each battery is fused with a 80a midi fuse. That gives me 160a charge/discharge. Cable could take 200a with ease for my run.
After the buss bar the main draw (inverter) is fused again with 150a maxi fuse for inverter. The dc distribution panel, is fed and fused with a 40a midi, the B2B fused with 30a midi, and solar charger fused with midi 50a. All to the buss bar.

View attachment 452937
Click to expand...
And that's why I like this forum. Came to learn one thing and get to learn a lot more. Very nice - thanks
 
KiwiKampers said:
When I read the title of this thread "I need to vent" I thought: I'll make a cup of tea before I read the rest of it and then I'll sit back and enjoy reading someone's suffering.
I was so disappointed I dropped my Hob Nob in the mug.
I will now have to go away and look for a toilet thread. They're so much more interesting than batteries.
😩
Click to expand...

Just wait and see my title when I have a toilet question - I'll be kicking up a right s#!t storm ;-)
 
Option 1 sounds like a good idea>:)::bigsmile::blusher:

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