Hymer Starline Electrical Problem

[thirteen-o-two]

I have lost all the 12 volt facility on our Mercedes based 2001 Hymer Starline 510. I was 'fixing' the outside/awning light when I allowed the two wires to touch each other. Initially it just blew a single fuse and we got by the rest of the weekend without the few that didn't work. However now - after turning the 12 volt supply off at the 'fuseboard/controller' under the drivers seat and replacing the single blown fuse I have no 12 volts at all - I cant even wind the electric step back in.

I fear that the job is beyond my (meddling) so I am looking for recommendations for someone in the Cheshire/Northwest area in the shape of a mobile (as the step is stuck out) repair person. ??

Many thanks in advance
Paul

 

[DavidG58]

I had a similar oddity with our 12V last year, we have a master 50A fuse on the output from our 12V power supply/ charger, removed that, checked it (OK) replaced all OK again never occurred since, funnily enough our went when I was tying to sort my awning light as well

ours is a 2008 Hymer, but it might help

welcome to the forum by the way

 

[Mel]

I can't help
Are there any cutout switches in the garage?

Mel

 

[scotjimland]

Try turning the 12v switch, off then back on at the control panel..

 

[SIFTA SAM]

If you get right under the step and locate the electric motor (left from front view) there should be a large split-pin that when removed allows the step to be manually retracted by disconnecting the motor drive link
The pin is located close to the output shaft of the motor.
The step will need to be tied back once retracted.
Hope this helps a little.

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[JeanLuc]

If the step will not work, that means the 12V system has shut down completely. (When the step works but inside habitation 12V does not, that means the system needs a reset by switching the main switch above the door on then off then on again - that is not your problem.)
I had a similar problem after doing some new cable work on mine recently. I had switched off the EBL at its main front panel switch then after completion of the work, it would not switch back on again. If yours has not been switched off for some time, the contacts can get a bit corroded. This is what happened to me I think because I rarely switch off the EBL. Try operating this front panel switch several times and see if that frees it (you will know if it is working when you hear the primary relay in the EBL 'clunk' gently). If not, you could try some electrical contact cleaner spray if you can see the back of the switch through the EBL slots - might be a seat-out job.
Failing that, it will need a new switch and that is either a remove and send back to Schaudt job, or an exchange EBL. For a repair email to Udo Lang at Schaudt Udo.Lang@schaudt-gmbh.de or for an exchange unit, talk to Lee or Paul Broadhurst at Edgehill Motorhomes Edgehill Motorhomes Nottinghamshire UK - Hymer

Hopefully operating the switch a few times will sort it out - it did for me.

 

[thirteen-o-two]

I will try that because funnily enough when I first operated it (never used it ever before) it didn't switch the 12 volt off so I tried it a second time and it obviously isolated - now of course it wont go back on.

This is it here (hopefully) sited under the passenger seat

 

[thirteen-o-two]

Oh, and I have replaced the 40 amp fuse next to the hab batteries

[/URL]
It was worth a shot (at least I have a spare 40a fuse now)

 

[thirteen-o-two]

Oh, and I have replaced the 40 amp fuse next to the hab batteries

It was worth a shot (at least I have a spare 40a fuse now)

[/URL]

 

[JeanLuc]

Your picture shows the main 12V switch on the EBL - that is the one that can 'stick' so give it some 'action'.

I note there appears to be some post manufacture cabling too as the yellow cable (I think) coming from Block 1 on the EBL has a blue Scotchblock connector with a thin red cable from it. I don't recognise that as original and I don't think Hymer use Scotchblocks anywhere - at least, I have never found one. I wonder what it is connected to?

I think the fuse next to the leisure batteries that you referred to should be a 50 amp maxi fuse. That is what mine has and that is what is specified in the Hymer manual. There is another one in the engine bay next to the starter battery. These are in the cables running from the leisure batteries and the starter battery respectively to the EBL.

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[thirteen-o-two]

Hi Philip - thanks for your input (no pun intended) I've wiggled that switch about 20 times to no avail. The fuse next to the battery was a 50 and not a 40 (typo). The only part of the tale I didn't tell here was that we have our dump valve tied up with a cable tie as it kept losing water when we went over a bump in the road. Now I note that when you switch the 12 volt off it activates the water dump. We snipped that tie off after the failure to operate 12 v and I now wonder if we might have damaged the EBL99 as a result??

For the record - I have tested every fuse incl the two 50A ones and the little 2 amp one that sits next to them (I assume that protects the guage/indicator within the hab over the doorway) I'm going to ring A and N in North Wales first thing tomorrow

 

[thirteen-o-two]

Well, you could knock me down with a feather! I had one last go and forcefully 'tapped the switch on and off and hey presto the lights came on, the step drawers in, and everytning works,

Im aware that it could let go again but I wont be operating that switch in a hurry again

Many to thanks to all for their input including the helpful advice from Alan at A and N and Paul at Edgehill. 'chuffed of Cheshire'

 

[JeanLuc]

Im aware that it could let go again but I wont be operating that switch in a hurry again

I have not touched my main 12V switch either since getting it working again. However, I am conscious of the fact that there are times when the system needs to be isolated such as when changing batteries or shutting off power to the things that are not controlled by the 12V switch on the control panel. So I am tempted to take the alternative view and switch it on and off regularly to keep it working. I shall probably wait until I have a known time gap in which I could get the switch replaced though before tempting fate.

 

[thirteen-o-two]

I am going to look out for a faulty unit on ebay and send it to Germany for repair and then keep it in stock. Ill always be able to sell it on - maybe to you thanks again for your help Philip.

 

[derek jones]

I am currently having a problem with my Burstner 625. After checking the leisure battery i shorted the battery when replacing the seat. I lost my 12v supply. I have checked the fuses under the seat and under the bonnet and all are OK but still no 12v. Any ideas ?.

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[Figaro]

Welcome to the forum @derek jones
Can't help much with your problem except to say look for more fuses, maybe on the ebl ?
How have you checked fuses ?
Sometimes they look ok but aren't.
Have you got a multimeter ?

 

[Gaston aires]

The Hymers wiring has the opposite polarity to what you would think on it 12v circuit. ie, blue live, brown neutral. Could be worth investigating.
Phil

 

[autorouter]

If you actually shorted the battery with the seat frame, you might have bypassed the fuses which usually protect the wiring against short circuits. It's possible that the battery is damaged internally. Do you have a multimeter to do a few simple checks? Any old cheap multimeter will do for this job, you can get one for a tenner in a DIY store.

Set the meter to the '20 Volts DC' range. plug the red test lead into the meter socket marked 'V'. Plug the black lead into the meter socket marked 'COM'. Ignore the socket marked 'A' or '10A' if there is one.

Poke the red probe onto the positive (+) battery terminal. Poke the black probe onto the negative (-) battery terminal. The voltage reading should be between 11 and 15 volts. If the battery is damaged it could be less than 11 volts, maybe even zero.

 

[TinaLes]

@thirteen-o-two.
These are the people to send your EBL to not only be repaired but all the known components/ switches and connectors will be upgraded or replaced. They offer a very quick turnaround on EBL's and a priced fairly also. Give them a try.
http://www.apuljackengineering.co.uk/
Good Luck
Les

 

[tonyidle]

The EBL switch will be OK mechanically. Unused contacts suffer from vey minor corrosion which is enough to stop them making contact. The problem can be totally (and correctly) cured by spraying contact cleaner copiously between the switch rocker and the switch outer. Work the switch a few times then wipe off any surplus. You will not need to repeat the process. Note that you must use Switch Cleaner and not WD40 or variant.

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}