Help, please, with the dreaded Hymer door lock problems!

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I've read numerous posts on here about problems with springs in Hymer door locks.
Last year, we had a problem whereby we could not open the hab door from the outside. At that time the top latch on the door was not opening when we unlocked the van from the outside, but could be moved manually from the inside in order to open the door. That problem was resolved under warranty.

We're now out of warranty and a similar problem seems to have arisen with the lower door latch.
I've read posts which indicate that the springs in the locks are naff and often need to be replaced, and I'm guessing that this is probably the cause of our problem.

My big question is 'How the hell do you remove the latch?'
20200620_101742[1855].jpg




The above is the offending item.

In particular, I read a thread by Stewart J , in which he showed a picture of this latch having been removed.

A secondary, and related problem is that 'the bit that the latch locks into' (sorry don't know what it's called), on the upper fitting, is no longer fitted straight.

This has probably occurred as a result of trying to force the door to open/shut - so entirely our fault. 🙄

Again, we are at a loss as to see how to remove it in order to straighten it.

20200620_101247[1853].jpg


Can some kind and knowledgeable person please advise as to how we should proceed?

Many thanks.
 
I believe you have a b544 but my locks are different....

firstly you should try and straighten the black bar, the plastic cover should just come of with some careful prising and the nuts on the bar can be loosened and then get the bar straight... tighten up a go from there..

to get into the door lock will take some further investigation...
 
Also if the retaining bar is set too far into the hab door then the door latch cannot “spring” open when you try to open the door .. it will need some trial and error on setting the black retaining bar just right...
 
As Garry says the lock bar is easy just pop the cover off and adjust the locking nuts, done it a few times on mine. To get at the latch in the door you need to remove the internal door panel. Probably best to get a set of car door panel trim removal tools (about a tenner on eBay) so you don't break the plastic studs when prizing it off.
 
In the photo is the flyscreen frame covering the the nuts used for amusement, if so it is the same as ours and you have to remove the screen frame first to get access.

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Let us know how easy a job it is, as I've got the same problem on my B585. The internal door panel has obviously got to come off, but the plastic doesn't seem to have any give, I can imagine it cracking very easily and being an Hymer part not cheap to replace!

Pete
 
Let us know how easy a job it is, as I've got the same problem on my B585. The internal door panel has obviously got to come off, but the plastic doesn't seem to have any give, I can imagine it cracking very easily and being an Hymer part not cheap to replace!

Pete
Do it on a nice warm day or put the heating on full blast for an hour or two will minimize the chance of it cracking.
 
Let us know how easy a job it is, as I've got the same problem on my B585. The internal door panel has obviously got to come off, but the plastic doesn't seem to have any give, I can imagine it cracking very easily and being an Hymer part not cheap to replace!

Pete
Sad to say, no job is 'easy' for us. I'll take all the advice given on here and we'll have a go.
If we feel uncomfortable we'll call it a day and have it done at Campirama. That could be a cheaper option than mucking it up - although I have read on German forums of people paying 400 Euros for similar jobs!

In the photo is the flyscreen frame covering the the nuts used for amusement, if so it is the same as ours and you have to remove the screen frame first to get access.

No, not for amusement :( . It does make it difficult to get at. We may have to do the same as you.
 
Adjustment if you need to remove the frame only remove one side, simply lift the frame about 10mm and there should be enough room to pull the frame back towards you giving access to the nuts once the black cover is removed.
 
Sorry bellabee ive got a lot of experience of locks but never needed to access one on the Motorhome, I know you have to remove door trim panel and That’s a pain. Good luck I am hoping I don’t need to do anything with ours in the future.😊🤞
 
I had the same problem, bought a coil spring assortment from Ebay, £5, fitted to retract the latches and gave it a good spray with PTFE, from lidl. A dry lubricant. Every thing works but could have done with adjusting the bars to give a better release.
 
Well done, ctc (y) . I see you've got an A Class. How difficult was it to remove the door panel? That's the bit that's worrying us.:(
 
Well done, ctc (y) . I see you've got an A Class. How difficult was it to remove the door panel? That's the bit that's worrying us.:(
Didn't remove the panel, attached the springs from outside.

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There was a hole for a rubber cover in the door panel and a hole in the latch. I took a coil spring and fitted it to pull the latch back when the handle is operated.
Please tell me how 😕
 
That's interesting Tykatem. Am I right in thinking that you've just stopped it from locking by holding the latch back with the elastic? If so, I think that could be a good solution for us, as we also have an Abus lock on the hab door.
I think we've discounted removing the door panel. Too much of a risk that we would damage it. :oops:
 
That's interesting Tykatem. Am I right in thinking that you've just stopped it from locking by holding the latch back with the elastic?

No! fitting the elastic bands has got the mechanism working as it should ie It will open, close and lock.

Pete
 
By way of an update. Having carefully considered all our options we reached the conclusion that we were far too incompetent to try to repair the catches ourselves. Both catches needed to be repaired, so we got it done at Campirama. 2 hours' labour including greasing the alko chassis €150.
Now got our fi gers crossed that it doesn't happen again.;)
 
I have the same problem on my Hymer B704 PL.
I have ordered the spring kit. The problem is where do you attach the spring? I have noted CTCs repair and that is the same locking mechanism as mine.
Had anybody got a photo of how exactly the replacement spring should fit?
Thanks Toady

Added photos for your attention



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IMG_5034.webp

IMG_5033.webp

IMG_5031.webp
 
I didn’t get a response to my problem so I thought I would post an update in case anybody else experienced the same problem.

I bought a box of springs from Amazon and was able to attach a spring to the outer black catch shown in pictures and an inner attachment. This sorted the problem. Pictures can be supplied if required.

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For Hymer Hab door springs contact Matthew Cushing on the Hymer Owner Group on Facebook.
He makes the springs as a hobby.
I bought a spare one off him about 3 years ago, not had to use it yet, but it lives in the toolbox as sods law says it will break on day two of a holiday.
 
For Hymer Hab door springs contact Matthew Cushing on the Hymer Owner Group on Facebook.
He makes the springs as a hobby.
I bought a spare one off him about 3 years ago, not had to use it yet, but it lives in the toolbox as sods law says it will break on day two of a holiday.
We've used around couple of them and they seem to be holding 🤞.
 

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