globecar campscout electrics

t&j mitch

t&j mitch

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hi all,completely new to this , motorhomes ,forums and typing with one finger:rolleyes:
i need to ask your expert advice. we bought a globecar campscout inbetween lockdowns and like everybody else have not been able to use it.
So as its a basic van with no tv aerial i decided to add one.Wired the amp direct to 12v system in van +ve brown/-ve black-didnt work!!! Consequently ive found that the leisure battery terminals are wired opposite to what i consider normal. brown -ve terminal/ black +ve terminal.does anyone know if this is correct for a european van or has somebody fitted a new battery the wrong way around
 
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Fairly sure that brown on German vans denotes positive but an expert will be along in a minute......
 
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My Hymer electrics are as your leisure battery - black is +ive and brown is -ive which can be confusing and all the manufacturer wiring to my EBL is the same so can only assume it is European standard rather than someone installing the wrong way around 👍
 
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Thanks for the information. Saves me a phone call. I'll just put it all back and wire the extra leisure battery the same.
Thanks again 👍🍻
 
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The Germans do like to confuse us with there wiring colours! It has caught out many people.
 
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nearly caught me out. all sorted now .thanks again .looking forward to first trip out(y)
 
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Btiwn for earth is quite normal and if you think about it quite logical, Hymer use red for battery positive. I know some use black for battery positive sounds a bit of an Americanisme (yank mains wiring black live, white neutral).
Blue is normally positive on lighting circuits, power circuits can be blue or red.

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lesson learnt. check everything . colour coding does not exist on motorhomes .
going to try fitting solar next and try some of minxy girls mods so i may be back here soon. (y):giggle:
 
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Minxy said:
Some of the stuff I did to our Campscout might be of interest to you.

Click to expand...
Hi Minxy,
Having trouble with my C223CS Thetford toilet and also trouble contacting Globecar UK, who might as well not exist. I had two submersible pump failures during our recent trip to Croatia and decided to replace it with a Shurflo system. Once I got the suction side sized up to 1/2" I have brilliant pressure everywhere and I know there is water in the toilet circuit. Problem is there is no power to anywhere in the cassette compartment so the Electric valve won't operate to release water. There is no fuse in the cassette compartment as it would be somewhere in the wiring loom which I can see easily. While I was fitting the Shurflo I forgot for a mo that Blue is +ve and Brown is -ve on these vans and blew the pump fuse, but that's all rectified and working fine. If there is a fuse on the toilet wiring circuit I probably blew that as well. All other fuses are good. Now here's the question - in all your poking around with your Globecar did you ever find a inline fuse that might have been related to the toilet? If you can shed any light on it it will save me a huge amount of time disassembling panels as there is no wiring diagram and I can't find one anywhere.
Best wishes, Don
 
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My Thetford has fuses visible when cassette is removed, and I’ve seen similar on other models of their toilets. So it may not be too far from yours.
 
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Andy, thanks for that but there is definitely no fuse in the cassette compartment as I have followed all wires through PCB and the electric valve. One selling agent said he thought my model (the C223CS) shared a fuse with the pump, but the pump is healthy and running and still no power in the loo. It's a bit of a mystery and I'm suspecting a poor contact somewhere or the builders have an inline fuse somewhere but not very apparent. Getting hold of Globecar is a nightmare. They ask you to fill in a form online and never respond. No phone line on their web site. Pretty poor.
 
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Don Campbell said:
Andy, thanks for that but there is definitely no fuse in the cassette compartment as I have followed all wires through PCB and the electric valve. One selling agent said he thought my model (the C223CS) shared a fuse with the pump, but the pump is healthy and running and still no power in the loo. It's a bit of a mystery and I'm suspecting a poor contact somewhere or the builders have an inline fuse somewhere but not very apparent. Getting hold of Globecar is a nightmare. They ask you to fill in a form online and never respond. No phone line on their web site. Pretty poor.
Click to expand...
Just looking at internet info you may have overcurrent protection on that toilet.


IMG_0136.png

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Ive a globecar 600L revolution with a Thetford C200 heads in it.
There is a specific 3A. Fuse in the cassette compartment for that model,
With the fuse in, when I press the flush button the pump runs and water flows into the bowl.
With the fuse removed, when I press the flush button, the pump runs, but no water flows into the bowl
So the fuse must be linked to a solenoid / valve, which kind of makes sense, as otherwise the loo would flush whenever the system is pressurised when running the pump for water to the sink / shower
IMG_0008.jpeg
IMG_0009.jpeg
 
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Here's the pump fuse on our Campscout. Its 2014.
I can vouch for some of Minxy's mods , the extra deep step shelf (great for wine and water bottles) and the laundy shute are a couple.
Screenshot_20230613_185918_Gallery.jpg
 
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There is a 3A fuse in a c250 loo at the back here
IMG_0450.jpeg

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Landy Andy said:
Just looking at internet info you may have overcurrent protection on that toilet.


View attachment 768674
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Thanks Andy. Not being an electrical expert I don't understand overcurrent protection, but everywhere else on the van is 13.7 volts on the meter so it should be fine and is perfectly normal as I have a 300 w solar panel and a good controller.
 
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This is from the C223 installation manual
there is a 3A fuse (1) on the incoming power supply on the PCB (7)
find the PCB and you will find the fuse - it must be similar to the C250 i posted above

googling 3A PTC means a 3A “positive Temperature Coefficent” (possibly resettable) fuse
the PTC fuse might be internal on the PCB and resets itself automatically when the current drops below 3A - clever bit of kit.
no idea why your loo isn’t flushing then!

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IMG_0451.jpeg
 
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gerry mcg said:
This is from the C223 installation manual
there is a 3A fuse (1) on the incoming power supply on the PCB (7)
find the PCB and you will find the fuse - it must be similar to the C250 i posted above

googling 3A PTC means a 3A “positive Temperature Coefficent” (possibly resettable) fuse
the PTC fuse might be internal on the PCB and resets itself automatically when the current drops below 3A - clever bit of kit.
no idea why your loo isn’t flushing then!

Product Detail View

Sheth Electronics company provides comprehensive products for the end user and R&D services for leading technology companies over the globe
www.shethelectronics.com

View attachment 768729
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Gerry thanks. I thought the PCB might have failed and bought an new one. I'll be honest and say I haven't a clue why I did that since i had already established that there was no power to anywhere, but one Globecar agent insisted it had to be the PCB (even though it couldn't possibly have been since there is no power in or out) but desperation sometimes clouds your judgment. Anyway if it goes wrong in future I have a spare (think I'll call it Harry!). I would love to source a wiring diagram for the Campscout but haven't managed it yet.
 
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Does the water pump work with any other taps?
if so, the pump must have a 12v supply.
the other possible issue is hte cable from the flush button to the PCB has somehow been damaged / become disconnected / not been seated properly after disconnection?
does the PCB have 12v coming in across the terminals indicated in (7)?
is there a fuse on teh EBL for the loo? (There isn’t on my C200, but there is a wider fuse for the water pump on the EBL)

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Gerry, Got great pressure at all taps and shower and I can even see the toilet pipe is loaded. Yes the pump has 13.7 v. PCB containing all the wiring has been replaced (see previous post), and has no 12v either in or out, hence my belief it's either a bad connection somewhere or I'm going to find an inline blown fuse somewhere, but God only knows where. The C200 is a different animal to the C223CS and there is no cable from the flush button to the PCB as the flush button pushes directly on to the microswitch that would send current (if there was any) to the flush button. I'm going to end up dismantling the panels backwards from the loo the power source unless anyone comes up with an answer. What I am going to do tomorrow is put a 12 volt direct contact on to the electric valve and see if it opens and flushes the loo. At least then I'll know it's wiring/fuse for sure.
 
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Cross post
… so looking at the wiring diagram in post #23.
there are 2 circuits with power supplies shown on that on that that go to from the loo.
1) a power supply direct to the PCB (7), (suspect this powers the PCB) and
2) a circuit with the power supply (4) to the pump (5).
Pressing the flush switch sends a signal to across the PCB powered by (7), flips a relay to energise the pump circuit (4) and actuate the Pump (5)
I assume pressing the pump switch also triggers the internal flush valve (6) that needs to be shut in normal times to stop the pressurised system flooding the loo when operating kitchen tap

can you try and connect a 3A fused 12v power supply direct (e.g direct from a battery using crocodile clips to the power in terminals (7) ? will tell you if the problem lies on the PCB supply side (7)

the supply side (7) must get power from the EBL, and therefore must be fused (either at the EBL ) or in line somewhere
 
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gerry mcg said:
Cross post
… so looking at the wiring diagram in post #23.
there are 2 circuits with power supplies shown on that on that that go to from the loo.
1) a power supply direct to the PCB (7), (suspect this powers the PCB) and
2) a circuit with the power supply (4) to the pump (5).
Pressing the flush switch sends a signal to across the PCB powered by (7), flips a relay to energise the pump circuit (4) and actuate the Pump (5)
I assume pressing the pump switch also triggers the internal flush valve (6) that needs to be shut in normal times to stop the pressurised system flooding the loo when operating kitchen tap

can you try and connect a 3A fused 12v power supply direct (e.g direct from a battery using crocodile clips to the power in terminals (7) ? will tell you if the problem lies on the PCB supply side (7)

the supply side (7) must get power from the EBL, and therefore must be fused (either at the EBL ) or in line somewhere
Click to expand...
Gerry, You are correct, except that the out power supply goes to the valve that releases the water to flush the loo when the button is pressed and closes when you stop. You are also correct in stating cross posted so we are on the same line of thought but although it's still nice and light outside I have had a slightly larger than wee dram so I'll leave it all until tomorrow.
 
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Hi everyone who contributed. My problem is solved and thanks for all your suggestions. First, there is no fuse on the C223CS toilet. It shares a fuse with the 5 amp fuse for the pump. The problem was that when I became disillusioned with the reliability of submersibles (or maybe I was just unlucky after 4 failures in 3 years) and fitted a Shurflo system, I did not reconnect the cabling for the microswitches on the taps because with the Shurflo system the taps flow as soon as they are opened and the pressure drops. I never sussed that cabling might also be connected to the PCB for the toilet. In becoming obsessed with finding an inline fuse somewhere that I assumed had blown, I overlooked this. I therefore reconnected the wiring for the tap microswitches and bingo - problem solved. As a bonus I now know a lot more about toilets, I have a spare PCB (which will never now go wrong) and I know that on whatever cloud they might be on Globecar UK's Customer Service ranks with the worst, although I take my hat off to Highland Campervans who were very courteous and very helpful.
 
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PS Anybody know how you get a wiring diagram for a Campscout, or any other similar Globecar van as I have exhausted all lines of enquiry.
 
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