Fogstar lithium batteries, any good ?

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One particular battery, a Fogstar 230 amp drift fits perfectly where needed. Anyone had dealings ? You have to pay a deposit and pre order. Takes a few weeks to arrive so they say.
Phil upmeamps
 
Loving our set up with our fogstar 280 lithium battery we had to pay up Infront of delivery .understand now it's only a deposit . More than happy with its performance . After service is second to none . We did have a problem to begin with which we thought was the battery .Ben the owner even came out on a bank holiday Monday to help us sort it . Turned out faulty trip fuse on my system . Can't fault them marvelous service and communication .
Bill

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Are you here Jock and hiding?
Sadly not Lenny. :( I did intend to just roll up and pay on the gate, but was prevented from doing so by SWMBO, as our daughter had planned a surprise visit for Father's Day this weekend. ;)

Cheers,

Jock. :)
 
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Have a Fogstar 280ahfor a month Works well. Just a question; Does the voltage shown on the App represent charging current while the engine is running? Reason for asking is that mine shows 13.5 volts with SoC 80% and current upto 30A. Seems a bit low for non- smart alternator output.
Ta
Tk
 
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Only just seen this if you want to pop over 3rd row down, 2nd van from hedge.
But we are not up yet.
I know where you are Lenny as Dave pointed you out yesterday, you weren’t about though 😉

We are about 4rows behind you against the next hedge fence but out drinking and frolicking for father’s day 👍
 
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I am only thinking of 48V because things like the Victron Multiplus etc are far cheaper at 48V than 12V. I didn't know this until @Wissel pointed it out to me.
Along with using thinner copper wires for the solar with reduced losses. Tesla are moving to a 48V architecture for their cars and other manufacturers are doing the same.
I suspect before a decade is up 48V will replace 12V.
I'm just planning my next van now & I'm going to compromise on 24V. Most things will be USB(5-9V), 24V or 230V. Surprisingly little on 12V. If I was to do the same exercise again in 10 years time, I would probably be going for 48V, but I'm more likely to be specifying an electric wheelchair by then & even that will be a bonus. :(

If I was doing a big van today, I would be quite tempted to go for USB, 48V & 230V & run almost everything at 230V, but we are downsizing, back to where we started, just with a LWB rather than a SWB VW Transporter.
 
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I'm just planning my next van now & I'm going to compromise on 24V. Most things will be USB(5-9V), 24V or 230V. Surprisingly little on 12V. If I was to do the same exercise again in 10 years time, I would probably be going for 48V, but I'm more likely to be specifying an electric wheelchair by then & even that will be a bonus. :(

If I was doing a big van today, I would be quite tempted to go for USB, 48V & 230V & run almost everything at 230V, but we are downsizing, back to where we started, just with a LWB rather than a SWB VW Transporter.
My 48V machinations are just idle ones with no serious direction in it yet. I certainly wouldn't recommend it to anyone other than those who are happy to do it themselves and suffer the consequences :p

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My 48V machinations are just idle ones with no serious direction in it yet. I certainly wouldn't recommend it to anyone other than those who are happy to do it themselves and suffer the consequences :p
.... and/or reap the benefits. :smiley:

Seriously though, I agree - a 48/230V system as of today only really makes sense in a large m/h or RV with all the comforts of home - massive fridge/freezer, washing machine in the garage, microwave, coffee machine. air fryer, etc etc etc.

It would be a long post & serious thread drift to explain why a 24V system works for me today. I'm sure you already know, but I might do a thread for the interest of others.
 
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I’m of the same opinion, and do use 48v for a fair few years. The 24v it’s a better compromise in my opinion for a mobile applications. Many appliances can be found for 24v and it’s not shabby in terms of efficiency. Another challenge for the 48v mobile would be the b2b, yes you can get the dc dc 12-48, but 12-24 will only have to boost 50% less. The solar, needs a minimum VMP of 75v to allow for dull weather, but on the 24v you will only need half of that. I can see lots of challenges, and any add ons or replacements later on will be difficult.
For example, the old 60cell 1x1.65m panels are disappearing. Many old installs where one or to panels are needed, have expensive choices: rip the remaining out and sell at a loss, then replace with new, or find similar panel size looking different to the rest,

Grommet, the 24v and 48v multiplus are similarly priced. There is a low price currently on 48v models since autumn last year. Victron has not succeeded to accredit the.multiplus for new UK grid requirements. If you look on victron life, I think victron submitted 3times and failed. Lots of customers in UK are in limbo over this, most of UK 48v stock is cheaper than anywhere else in Europe you can get a multi 48/5kva in UK for 1450 delivered without looking to hard. In EU you will have a hard time to find cheaper than €1800.
 
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Out with the old

IMG_3790.jpeg


and in with the new

IMG_3791.jpeg
 
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