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Plastic or aluminium is fine - preparation is key (see what I did there) particularly for plastic that is contaminated by mould release agent during manufacture and needs cleaning and light sanding. Plastic mounts are also expensive for what they are. You need a good quality PU adhesive. People have their favourites - I have used Tiger Seal and two variants of Sikaflex all of which have stood the test of time. Surface cleanliness is essential using the cleaners recommended by the manufacturer of the adhesive or one of these:Thanks for info.
I have read a number of articles, however some of info is a little contradictory.
Type of adhesive, aluminium or plastic mounting fixings etc.
Thanks for info.
I have read a number of articles, however some of info is a little contradictory.
Type of adhesive, aluminium or plastic mounting fixings etc.
Thanks for info.
I have read a number of articles, however some of info is a little contradictory.
Type of adhesive, aluminium or plastic mounting fixings etc.
If you weren't so far away I would give you a hand ?. Do be careful on the roof.Thanks for everyone's input. Information is power, great advice as usual.
I was a little nervous attempting this with no prior experience however armed with the above and comparing costs of DIY and professional installation its a no brainer.
waiting for warmer weather to get on with it
Wonderfully clean roof, do you want to come and clean mineFixed ours down with hinges, then I can tilt it if I want. Handy for later in the year, makes a big difference ??
View attachment 367799View attachment 367800View attachment 367801
No not bothered thanks ? our van lives in the garage with a special high roof ?Wonderfully clean roof, do you want to come and clean mine
Yes.How do you elevate it?
Do you have to climb on the roof?
I am planning to fit a 200W solar panel to my Nexxo T740. Has anyone undertaken similar and could pass on any tips or advice.
Regards
Roy
HiAs said above there are lots of ways and options.
For me it was second hand panel and basic controller supplied with from another Funster that was also upgrading.
Purchased my own plastic corners and cables and cable entry port for two wires.
Drilled entry hole near TV aeriel as that guarantees I knew where the inner hole would appear in a locker of my choice.
Mounted controller in locker and removed internal trim to route cables from controller down to leisure battery.
Then fed solar cables down and loosely fixed with some slack to controller.
Mounted corners in my workshop and then moved to roof.
Placed panel on roof and pencil marked where feet sit. Roughed up and cleaned four contact points and dried. Double checked foot position. Puraflex40 applied to all of four mounting feet. Lowered panel onto pencil marks and applied gentle even pressure. Then applied extra sealant/adhesive around feet edges and smoothed off.
Using multimeter I triple checked the wires (+/-) coming from panel as all solar cables are usually black.
Cut and trimmed all cables and fixed MC4 connectors and removed the excess metres of cables. Puraflex a few cable mounts on roof in convenient places to hold cables (not pulled tight) .
At this point I then used same Puraflex to mount the cable entry point box and glands.
I then went back in MH to connect cables securely to controller. I didn't know then (but do now) that there is a sequence to attaching to controller, battery then solar and finally load if needed (roof fan in my case).
Basic PWM controller worked right away but has no screen so added a £2 volt meter to top of controller.
Upgraded a few weeks ago to MPPT controller with higher Ampage capabilities and will add a second panel from Amazon shop using Y branch mc4 connectors when weather improves.
Does that help?
All good two years later. Recommended by other Funsters. One tip is don't crush your fitting into the bead of Puraflex40, you need a few mm gap between fixture and roof for the gunk to occupy and same is true of other similar fixative.Hi
Fitting a panel myself and noticed you have used Puraflex 40, any issues with this adhesive, reveiwed it on web and sounds ok.
Cheers Tony
BrilliantAll good two years later. Recommended by other Funsters. One tip is don't crush your fitting into the bead of Puraflex40, you need a few mm gap between fixture and roof for the gunk to occupy and same is true of other similar fixative.
I assume you're deciding whether to use the solar input on your distribution box/EBL? The MPPT controller does the voltage control. If anything, plugging the controller straight to the battery is safer as you don't have to worry about the fact you're pushing just over 30amps in. Lots of distribution boxes aren't designed to take that much solar input.Newbie dumb question, or not, you decide, I'm fitting 2 200w panels on a Burstner 748, done all the videos on YT etc. I have a niggling doubt about bypassing the transformer/rectifier box to wire the panels through an isolator switch, mppt controller, 30amp fuse straight to the batteries. Do I have to go through the rectifier or not? I know I'm going to have to go through it with the inverter to put power to the sockets.