Hullo,
I've been wiring up a single 100W panel (initial testing) to the Chinese cheapy PWM controller which came with the 2 x 100W kit and leaving the 'load' terminals unused. The 'Battery' terminals are wired to pins 1 and 3 of Block 6, and the controller springs into life showing voltage coming from the EBL. Open voltage reading from the panel before connecting to the controller is 19V, and it drops to about 12V once connected to the controller.
The EBL 99 G has a 15A solar fuse and doesn't have any 'data' port; I will be getting a Votronic MPP 250 when they're back in stock because I want the AES signal for the fridge. At the moment, even Votronic's '2007' cable set will do nothing for me as I've already wired a 3-pin MnL connector.
Back to today; should I expect to see the ammeter needle move into the green on the IT-991-2 panel if current is genuinely being drawn in from Block 6, or does that need something extra? The needle does not move even when I unplug the solar panel.
To verify if I was going completely mad, I plugged the mains back in, and immediate the ammeter swung to the green showing 10A initial charge. Have I made some daft mistake? Looking at the Shaudt LR1218 and LRM1218, I don't see how I could connect things up differently given the lack of 'data' ports.
This snippet from the LRM1218 manual seems to suggest I'm doing something right:
My initial focus is charging the hab battery - am not bothered about the starter battery at this stage.
I've been wiring up a single 100W panel (initial testing) to the Chinese cheapy PWM controller which came with the 2 x 100W kit and leaving the 'load' terminals unused. The 'Battery' terminals are wired to pins 1 and 3 of Block 6, and the controller springs into life showing voltage coming from the EBL. Open voltage reading from the panel before connecting to the controller is 19V, and it drops to about 12V once connected to the controller.
The EBL 99 G has a 15A solar fuse and doesn't have any 'data' port; I will be getting a Votronic MPP 250 when they're back in stock because I want the AES signal for the fridge. At the moment, even Votronic's '2007' cable set will do nothing for me as I've already wired a 3-pin MnL connector.
Back to today; should I expect to see the ammeter needle move into the green on the IT-991-2 panel if current is genuinely being drawn in from Block 6, or does that need something extra? The needle does not move even when I unplug the solar panel.
To verify if I was going completely mad, I plugged the mains back in, and immediate the ammeter swung to the green showing 10A initial charge. Have I made some daft mistake? Looking at the Shaudt LR1218 and LRM1218, I don't see how I could connect things up differently given the lack of 'data' ports.
This snippet from the LRM1218 manual seems to suggest I'm doing something right:
My initial focus is charging the hab battery - am not bothered about the starter battery at this stage.