Ducato dashboard fuses - more than I expected!

Joined
Apr 27, 2018
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Location
Derbyshire
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53,611
MH
WildAx Solaris XL
Exp
Since 2019
Out of curiosity I opened the panel for the dashboard fuses on our 2019 PVC and found some extra fuses I wasn't expecting. Can anyone identify the 6 fuses hanging down from the top? We have a Strikeback/Growler fitted - could they be to do with that? I don't have any documentation that I can use to identify their function.
OBD Socket and fuses 1.jpeg
 
Out of curiosity I opened the panel for the dashboard fuses on our 2019 PVC and found some extra fuses I wasn't expecting. Can anyone identify the 6 fuses hanging down from the top? We have a Strikeback/Growler fitted - could they be to do with that? I don't have any documentation that I can use to identify their function.
View attachment 408814
I could be wrong but from your photo there appears to be some fuses missing from the board, eg the one second in on the bottom row. Looking at the FIAT handbook this appears to be F32 which protects the "Lighting of roof lights in the passenger compartment (+battery)".
If you have a look at pg223 in your handbook you may be able to identify which fuses are "missing" and then pull the "extra" fuses to see if the protected item stops working.
Perhaps the convertor has just removed them from the board and repositioned for some reason?
 
I don't know what the fuses are for but whoever fitted them should never be allowed near automotive wiring again. What a bodge!!

I just hope that you were not the person who paid for such a terrible job, if you are take it back and demand that the job be done properly.
 
Could y have had a problem with the fuse box and replaced with these fuses.
I’ve had a fuse holder melt on my fuse board and replaced it with a fuse like that.

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I don't know what the fuses are for but whoever fitted them should never be allowed near automotive wiring again. What a bodge!!

I just hope that you were not the person who paid for such a terrible job, if you are take it back and demand that the job be done properly.
Define properly?
 
Define properly?
I tend to agree. There's nothing wrong with using a couple of blade receptacles as a fuse connection as long as they're correctly supported. Considerably better than some of the in-line fuseholders on the market.
 
Hi used these when sorting out the wiring in our MH

1595328398314.png
 
hi they are for your Strikeback/Growler
Thanks for confirming that wildstar I thought they may well be. I haven't tried pulling the fuses out yet, but what stops a thief from doing so? Won't that affect the operation of the alarm and more importantly the tracker?
 
A 6 way fuse holder? That's what I would use
Mounted where ?
In any case 98% of the fuse boxes available aftermarket are not worth a w****
The installation as is, is perfectly safe and shrink wrapped to prevent them coming apart
an established method carried out at most work shops auto electricians
to do it 100% you should use existing spare fuse holders in the main fuse box BUT
You wouldnt pay the labour
 
Mounted where ?
In any case 98% of the fuse boxes available aftermarket are not worth a w****
The installation as is, is perfectly safe and shrink wrapped to prevent them coming apart
an established method carried out at most work shops auto electricians
to do it 100% you should use existing spare fuse holders in the main fuse box BUT
You wouldnt pay the labour

If that's an accepted method by any auto electrician then god help customers.

Yes, the heat shrink, if that is what it is, does hold them together but how does an owner change a blown one?

They should be in a good quality fuse holder and the excuse that there is not enough room isn't valid. No professional should look on a job in that light. I am aware that there are many poor quality items on the market but a customer pays his money to the professionals to get a professional job done with good quality components not one like this.

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Looks like tape to me not shrink insulation
Its heat wrap on mine
but how does an owner change a blown one?
Simple. They pull out. The heat shrink does not extend that far.

If that's an accepted method by any auto electrician then god help customers.

They should be in a good quality fuse holder and the excuse that there is not enough room isn't valid. No professional should look on a job in that light. I am aware that there are many poor quality items on the market but a customer pays his money to the professionals to get a professional job done with good quality components not one like this.
I can assure you that there is nowhere large enough to put a a 6 blade fuse holder in that area. Quite often see in line fuses for added components and there is nothing wrong with doing it that way. Geo is in the trade. Are you?
 
Its heat wrap on mine

Simple. They pull out. The heat shrink does not extend that far.

Pull out of what? In my estimation of that photograph the fuses are only connected to individual push on connectors which may move in any direction or 'escape' from the insulation once the fuse is removed from them. One side of each fuse is most probably fed from a circuit which is fused at a much higher current rating than that fuse and thus could be a potential fire hazard should it short to -ve (chassis).

I can assure you that there is nowhere large enough to put a a 6 blade fuse holder in that area. Quite often see in line fuses for added components and there is nothing wrong with doing it that way. Geo is in the trade. Are you?

No, I'm not in the motor trade but have been in the electrical trade (not household electrics) for fifty five years and associated with the motoring world for just as long.
I don't decry in-line fuses correctly used but installations like this lead one to wonder what other corners have been cut when the job was done.
Are all cables correctly protected either sleeved or wrapped like the OEM loom in the picture?
If holes have been drilled for cables or if they pass sharp edges of metal are they protected with grommets etc.?

I've seen fire damaged vehicles caused by bodged electrics and don't wish anyone's camper to go the same way.

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This is a single fuse holder designed for the job that it is doing. The blade fuse fits into the top. The purpose made fuse holder itself has crimp ties directly to the wires and acts as an inline fuse holder. If you want to remove the fuse you hold the bit with shrink wrapping with one hand and pull out the fuse from the top with the other.

12V cables come ready insulated and, unlike mains voltage cables, there is no requirement for them to be double insulated either by wrapping or sleeving. The wrapping of the OEM loom is not for insulation purposes, it just makes it tidier and easier to install when the vehicle is being built. Look in every motorhome and you will see lots and lots of single insulated wiring.

I really do not understand your comment about shorting. There are no bare wires anywhere to be seen. Of course things rubbing against sharp edges may cause a short, but there is no sign of that in the photo and nor is there on my motorhome.
 
Pulling the fuses will set off the alarm using its hidden battery backup
Thanks TheBig1 that does sound likely although I'm reluctant to try it out unnecessarily. I'm happy to know that they are related to the alarm system and not anything else from WildAx or Fiat. I assume the fuses relate to the various circuits for bike loop etc.
 

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