Drilling a motorhome acrylic window. (1 Viewer)

Mar 26, 2009
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Has anyone drilled an acrylic window?

I have condensation between the two surfaces and before buying a new window would like to drill a couple of holes in an attempt to remove the moisture and reseal by inserting some plastic bungs. If you have drilled a window did you drill a small pilot hole first followed by the correct size or did you go for the correct size hole in one pass? How critical is drill speed? Any other tips/pitfalls to be aware of?

Thanks (in advance) for any help you can offer.
 

Emmit

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Acrylic is 'Soft'.
It will easily melt if subjected to heat. That includes using drill bits on it. (try touching a drill bit after it's been used.)

First of all, stick a piece of insulating tape at the point of drilling. That will stop the bit from wandering. I would drill a pilot hole with a very small diameter bit and then "Slowly"!!! drill the right hole, not using a lot of pressure and take the bit away regularly to cool down.
Good luck
 

bungy

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make sure its a very sharp drill as well !!

One thing though...you need to try an find whats causing it first...probably a delamination on the edges, or around window locking/opening bits and bobs. Could run some Capt Trolleys on any of the edges, should solve it

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hilldweller

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probably a delamination on the edges, or around window locking/opening bits and bobs. Could run some Capt Trolleys on any of the edges, should solve it

Our windows had a recall, four screws to each window because some flew off.

These windows have two little pressure vent at the top corners, why reseal ?

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JeanLuc

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Do the windows not have breather holes? Ours have a hole on each side through the inner skin, near the struts. The holes are filled with plastic plugs that have a cross-shaped air vent (hard to see).
 

signworks

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sorry to disagree with bungy but dont use a sharp drill blunt the drill bit on a piece of steel as a sharp drill will grab and possibly crack the window if you can try a test piece of acrylic
before you drill use sellotape were you are going to drill the oil in the tape will cool the acrylic down and stop it from melting and give you a clean cut
try do it in one pass no pilot hole unless you are drilling larger holes than 12mm

cheers tomi
 

jollyrodger

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Drilled one or two in the past and the same as number plates :
slightly blunt drill and not a lot of pressure let the drill do the work ,drill though a bit of masking tape or similar to stop slipping .
As has already been asked have you not got small robber breather bungs ?

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bungy

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Our windows had a recall, four screws to each window because some flew off.

These windows have two little pressure vent at the top corners, why reseal ?
different windows type

Phil is looking to reseal after getting rid of the moisture,it will just happen again, but yeah, could leave the holes open
 

hilldweller

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well...looks like ive been lucky sofar then with the sharp drills and plastic/perspex(y)

Very. There is special sharpening angle for plastics, very shallow.

I'd even suggest a hand drill if he has such a thing.

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musson

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you could try a soldering iron with pointed bit,having said that all the caravans i have owned had plastic plugs
 

TERRY&PAULINE

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Has anyone drilled an acrylic window?

I have condensation between the two surfaces and before buying a new window would like to drill a couple of holes in an attempt to remove the moisture and reseal by inserting some plastic bungs. If you have drilled a window did you drill a small pilot hole first followed by the correct size or did you go for the correct size hole in one pass? How critical is drill speed? Any other tips/pitfalls to be aware of?

Thanks (in advance) for any help you can offer.

we had this problem with our door glass drilled 2 small holes from inside at the bottom cured the problem didn't seal them up seems ok now
 
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Taran_Las
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Thanks for all the suggestions.(y) Much appreciated (even from him who can't spell;).)

Strangely enough only one sliding window & Heiki have plastic bungs in them. All the other windows are 'sans bung'. I'll have a look on eBay for some acrylic to perform a test on.

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Mattyjwr

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Our windows get water in then it dissapears without any help from us. Is the water in your windows all the time? If you do need to drill, can you drill into the area that has water to help keep the acrylic cool?
 
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Taran_Las
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The water appeared last summer after the van had been in for repair. The workshop (in France) was incredibly hot early in the morning (not sure if this contributed to the problem). This is only affecting one window. Noted - a good suggestion to drill into the area holding the water (for cooling). The sliding window has one bung at the top and one diagonally opposite at the bottom.

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Techno

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I had no problem using a regular HSS bit drilling acrylic. The problem I envisage for you Phil is swarf and where it will go as you break through. It may be tiny but once you notice any you'll never get it out of your mind, draw the blind! :LOL:
 

DBK

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I would suggest the holes should be at the top.. that's where they normally are

when the internal air warms up it rises carrying the moisture ..
As above, but for a slightly different reason. Counterintuitively, dry air is denser than moist air, so the holes should be at the top. The reason is water molecules are lighter than nitrogen molecules.
 

JeanLuc

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At the risk of being 'a dog worrying a bone' I am surprised there are any windows sans bung - is it possible that a breather vent is concealed in some other fixing on these windows? e.g. in the strut or closure mountings.

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Tootles

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One of ours seems to have a few drops inside it as well. :(

water1.jpg
 

TERRY&PAULINE

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I would suggest the holes should be at the top.. that's where they normally are

when the internal air warms up it rises carrying the moisture ..

The reason I drilled the holes at the bottom was to let the water run out that had formed, not had a problem since
 
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At the risk of being 'a dog worrying a bone' I am surprised there are any windows sans bung - is it possible that a breather vent is concealed in some other fixing on these windows? e.g. in the strut or closure mountings.

Good point. I'll examine the offending window with the metaphorical microscope. Thanks for the suggestion Philip.

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OP
Taran_Las
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I had no problem using a regular HSS bit drilling acrylic. The problem I envisage for you Phil is swarf and where it will go as you break through. It may be tiny but once you notice any you'll never get it out of your mind, draw the blind! :LOL:

Strange you should mention that Andy. The sliding window has a bung missing. A kamikazi fly found its way in, but alas, not out. That (pardon the pun) has bugged me enormously.:LOL:
 
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Last September, when they were combining the field behind our house, 5 of those tiny harvest mites got into my pc screen. They show up as tiny out of focus hyphens, does my head in !

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PeteH

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Suggestion? when finished and dry, Insert several grains of Silca Gel. Before resealing?

The guys who make Double glazing do that, before they inject the nitrogen to void the oxygen/Air. Watched them do it in the factory, whilst waiting to "tip" once.

Pete
 
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Taran_Las
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I've ordered a piece of acrylic from eBay. I've also located my hand-drill. I can get some practice in ready for the day I summon enough courage to have a go at the window. Thanks for all suggestions, tips and pitfalls. They've all been duly noted(y)

:cartoon:

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