Dometic RMD 8505 Fridge/Freezer PCB not working

Joined
Apr 2, 2021
Posts
29
Likes collected
7
Location
Limerick, Ireland
Funster No
80,148
MH
Rapido 9048 DF
Hello All,
the Dometic RMD 8505 fridge/freezer PCB accessed at the back of the fridge is broken. This happened due a stupid mistake by myself. Dometic state that they no longer supply this PCB. At the moment I am getting the board tested. All components on the board can be replaced, except possibly the chip, which I have been told is probably the case.

If this is the case, do any of you have information of getting a replacement board from a dealer who may have this board, or a second hand PCB.

I have been quoted a price of €3,141 to fit a new fridge a new Dometic RCD 10.5 T Fridge/Freezer.

An expensive mistake!

Thanks, any information would be helpful
 

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  • DometicRMD8505PCB.jpg
    DometicRMD8505PCB.jpg
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If you can live without the little blue and red lights by the door opening then you can use the PCB from the much cheaper RMS units. I. changed mine for about £50 a few weeks ago
 
I think Aplujack repair them.

Crazy they don't supply replacement parts they were still being fitted to vans only 3/4 years ago.

 
I think Aplujack repair them.

Crazy they don't supply replacement parts they were still being fitted to vans only 3/4 years ago.

I contacted them as saw here that they were recommended and they were aldo used by the motorhome here in Ireland. However, they stated they did not have the capacity to do it. In any case someone in Ireland is examining the PCB
 
If you can live without the little blue and red lights by the door opening then you can use the PCB from the much cheaper RMS units. I. changed mine for about £50 a few weeks ago
Thanks I can live without these lights, where did you buy the RMS unit, and is it difficult to fit?

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Found a bargain on fleebay - this is the unit you need, just the main board inside not the LCD display panel on the front:

Screenshot_20220622-190303.png
The X115 3 pin socket on your current board will be a redundant 2 pin X114 socket on the new board but the rest is the same. My AES now says AU aswell but everything works except the two LEDs. The existing LCD panel still works fine but it's obviously still hidden by the freezer door which is why the blue/red LEDs are required in the first place.
 
Found a bargain on fleebay - this is the unit you need, just the main board inside not the LCD display panel on the front:

View attachment 633366
The X115 3 pin socket on your current board will be a redundant 2 pin X114 socket on the new board but the rest is the same. My AES now says AU aswell but everything works except the two LEDs. The existing LCD panel still works fine but it's obviously still hidden by the freezer door which is why the blue/red LEDs are required in the first place.
Hello dunnah01, no this is the PCB at the front of the fridge, however it is the PCB under the grill at the back of the fridge that is broken.
 
Am I correct?
The PCB on the back of your fridge is connected by a long ribbon wire to the LCD display between the fridge and freezer doors. The PCB inside the black box I've linked is connected directly to the LCD but will fit on the back of your fridge to your ribbon cable no problem 👍

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Convert it to compressor Richard n Ann he has just done his 👍
I am thinking about this but in Ireland I mainly use the MH for wild camping and I do not think the compressor would have enough power from batteries. I have a lithium battery installed (90W) and it is very good, and a 110 W solar panel, but to have any hope I would have to install a second lithium battery. However, I feel this would not have enough power for a compressor fridge over many days of wild camping, especially with the sun here in the west of Ireland. But maybe I am wrong.
 
The PCB on the back of your fridge is connected by a long ribbon wire to the LCD display between the fridge and freezer doors. The PCB inside the black box I've linked is connected directly to the LCD but will fit on the back of your fridge to your ribbon cable no problem 👍
Interesting, sorry I am a bit confused. Is it possible to show me using pictures how you did this, you can PM if you wish.
 
Interesting, sorry I am a bit confused. Is it possible to show me using pictures how you did this, you can PM if you wish.
The main board inside the black box is the top one and your existing board at the back of the fridge is the bottom one. Your current X115 is the feed for the blue/red LEDs whereas the X114 feed on the cheaper? black box board is actually for an electronic door lock when driving which I don't think you have. The top PCB will fit directly to where your existing PCB is on the back of the fridge (y)
FRIDGEPCBs.png
 
The main board inside the black box is the top one and your existing board at the back of the fridge is the bottom one. Your current X115 is the feed for the blue/red LEDs whereas the X114 feed on the cheaper? black box board is actually for an electronic door lock when driving which I don't think you have. The top PCB will fit directly to where your existing PCB is on the back of the fridge (y)
View attachment 633386
Yes I understand now what you described, thank you very much for the information.
 
Maybe have a chat with Jon on this site. A lovely man and helpful to a fault.
He will be fit to advise

 
I am thinking about this but in Ireland I mainly use the MH for wild camping and I do not think the compressor would have enough power from batteries. I have a lithium battery installed (90W) and it is very good, and a 110 W solar panel, but to have any hope I would have to install a second lithium battery. However, I feel this would not have enough power for a compressor fridge over many days of wild camping, especially with the sun here in the west of Ireland. But maybe I am wrong.
I've only got 1 x 80ah Gel battery and a 150w solar panel, you'll be fine with lithium. The fridge only uses 7ah overnight and the solar soon puts that back in the next day 😏

Maiden voyage to Shrewsbury with it tomorrow 😌.
 
I've only got 1 x 80ah Gel battery and a 150w solar panel, you'll be fine with lithium. The fridge only uses 7ah overnight and the solar soon puts that back in the next day 😏

Maiden voyage to Shrewsbury with it tomorrow 😌.
Sorry to tag you but I did not know how to link the thread👍

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If you can live without the little blue and red lights by the door opening then you can use the PCB from the much cheaper RMS units. I. changed mine for about £50 a few weeks ago
Hello! Can I ask for more info on this? I've gone through the entire internet to find this board and cannot! Which board from an RMS fridge would fit please?
 
Are you trying to replace an earlier 8 series ( long) power module or the later 8 series (brick) power control module as they are very different to look at . I think you will find the earlier RMS fridge power module is behind the front display (long type) and on the later RMS fridge models it is on the rear of the fridge (brick type)
 
Last edited:
Managed to find and purchase one from The Leisure Warehouse 2 weeks ago. I posted a thread about my pcb failure check it out under my name title accessing Dometic 8505 fridge control pcb
 

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