Design fault problem, any suggestions

Rob G

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My wife and I are the proud owners of a Swift select 122 campervan a replacement for our much loved Autosleeper Sybol which we had for 7years .The Swift offered more space and better placed bed making our campervan outings more comfortable (suffering fom arthritis can make things a little difficult at times ) Ok as always over winter I do a full draindown and cover the truma multi heater with insulated blanket and never a problem . Checking all push joints on the pipes when refilling as always been on my maintaience list however with the Swift 122 one joint is impossible to check being behind the truma with no room to get your hands in and you guessed it, this is the one that leaks, Turn on the pump and watch the water flow !
Maintainence on this small simple to fix problem is impossible without removing the truma . So an expensive trip to local caravan repairer is booked unless someone knows how to deal with this.
Meanwhile its a weekend away in our beutiful camper cancelled .
A word of advice , sometimes it the small things going wrong that can really effect your plans .
Happy camping all.







Sent from my Galaxy
 
Will these or similar fit in the gap

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A local company that builds and repairs horse boxes sorted out similar leak. They had the correct tools to get behind the boiler and were able to remove the leaking joint and reroute the pipework.
 
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Ok as always over winter I do a full draindown and cover the truma multi heater with insulated blanket and never a problem . Checking all push joints on the pipes when refilling as always been on my maintaience list however with the Swift 122 one joint is impossible to check being behind the truma with no room to get your hands in and you guessed it, this is the one that leaks, Turn on the pump and watch the water flow !
As you have discovered, sometimes it is not enough to just drain the water from the pipes, heater and tanks. The way to avoid this damage from residual water freezing is to blow it out with compressed air.

I cut the pipe near the pump, and put in a tee, and a Schrader-type tyre valve. I use a small tyre inflator that works off 12V, and has a settable pressure limit, set to about 15 PSI (about 1 bar) to avoid overpressurising the pipework. It blows all residual water from the pipes as I open the taps in turn, not forgetting to flush the toilet to protect the solenoid valve in the supply pipe.

Leave all taps open, with mixer taps in the mid position. If they are microswitch taps, you will need to isolate the water pump, maybe by removing the pump fuse.
 
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Star Brite anti-freeze?? It surprised me but apparently it's for domestic water systems on boats and RVs.

The blurb says:-
Safe, non-toxic antifreeze suitable for the domestic water system on board boats and RVs. This antifreeze protects the potable water system from damaged caused by freezing water.

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Last edited:
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My wife and I are the proud owners of a Swift select 122 campervan a replacement for our much loved Autosleeper Sybol which we had for 7years .The Swift offered more space and better placed bed making our campervan outings more comfortable (suffering fom arthritis can make things a little difficult at times ) Ok as always over winter I do a full draindown and cover the truma multi heater with insulated blanket and never a problem . Checking all push joints on the pipes when refilling as always been on my maintaience list however with the Swift 122 one joint is impossible to check being behind the truma with no room to get your hands in and you guessed it, this is the one that leaks, Turn on the pump and watch the water flow !
Maintainence on this small simple to fix problem is impossible without removing the truma . So an expensive trip to local caravan repairer is booked unless someone knows how to deal with this.
Meanwhile its a weekend away in our beutiful camper cancelled .
A word of advice , sometimes it the small things going wrong that can really effect your plans .
Happy camping all.







Sent from my Galaxy

Have you tried getting to the joint with a set of long nosed pliers?
I have a set of 3, one straight jaws, one 45% and the last, which will probably be the most helpful to you, with the jaws at 90%.

They are about 25cm long and often come in sets of the above 3 but a national tool company like Beta will sell them individually.

Often I have use mine to hold the Speedfit collet compression release collar tool while releasing the pipe and then rerouting it after.

Sorry can't send pictures but
still haven't managed to suss how to send them on this new smartphone.😡

Good luck! 👍
 
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As you have discovered, sometimes it is not enough to just drain the water from the pipes, heater and tanks. The way to avoid this damage from residual water freezing is to blow it out with compressed air.

I cut the pipe near the pump, and put in a tee, and a Schrader-type tyre valve. I use a small tyre inflator that works off 12V, and has a settable pressure limit, set to about 15 PSI (about 1 bar) to avoid overpressurising the pipework. It blows all residual water from the pipes as I open the taps in turn, not forgetting to flush the toilet to protect the solenoid valve in the supply pipe.

Leave all taps open, with mixer taps in the mid position. If they are microswitch taps, you will need to isolate the water pump, maybe by removing the pump fuse.

I just disconnect one or two of the Speedfit pipes, connect a piece of garden hose and blow down it after opening the taps.
I been told I have enough hot air to get out of most situations so why not use it? 😄
 
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If the local repair place can get to it, so they can fix it, then so can you.

I don't know the exact pipe layout, is it possible to bypass the leaking joint with a temporary length of pipe, that way you can get it fixed at you leisure.

Geoff
Unfortunatly not, without a rejig its a t peice junction. Contacted Swift about this being a design fault ! They say it's not always possible to put joints in accessible places , To me it's common sense but what do i know.
 
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Where are abouts in the country are you? There might be someone close who can help.

As said above, most times these issues can be got around by disconnecting other joints and withdrawing the pipe with failed joint, then putting back in place. I have to do similar regularly in peoples properties.
 
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If these are pushfit connectors, have you tried just pushing them together again?

Sometimes, trapped water freezes and expands, pushing the joints apart and causing a leak when under pressure.
Sometimes all it needs is pushing together again from each end? 🤔

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Ok Thanks for the replys , Have checked it out further. Unfortunatly it seems the leaking joint or pipe is between the panneling behind the truma , So its a strip out on that side , and hope the warranty covers. I maintain its a design fault and swift are very none commital over this, Van is only 13 months old.
 
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