Battery charging in situ. Disconnect terminal(s) first?

[kevenh]

I’ve a 2006 Pug Boxer.
So far in lockdown the solar trickle charger is keeping cab & hab batteries levels about right.
But if I need to boost either battery it will be the cab battery. This is because the solar panel charges Hab1st, then cab.
My portable charger instructions say it can charge a battery that’s disconnected or used in situ.
How to decide is left to me knowing if my vehicle is OK with an in situ charge

Is the Pug Boxer one of those vehicles OK with in situ charging?
TIA

 

[David and Sally]

It’ll be fine. It charges in situ when the engine is running.

 

[kevenh]

It’ll be fine. It charges in situ when the engine is running.

Thanks

 

[Lenny HB]

Why not just use the built in charger no need for a seperate charger.

 

[kevenh]

When on EHU only the hab battery is charged.
Before, I’ve used EHU to charge the hab battery to full, so solar has charged the cab battery.
But when the weather is too rubbish I’ve had to go for a drive

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[2657]

When on EHU only the hab battery is charged.
Before, I’ve used EHU to charge the hab battery to full, so solar has charged the cab battery.
But when the weather is too rubbish I’ve had to go for a drive

Surely that would depend on the charging system, mine certainly charges both, hab first and once that is charged the van battery.

 

[kevenh]

With the vehicle running, the engine’s alternator will trickle charge the hab battery.
The solar from a previous owner’s setup is just big enough to charge 1st the hab battery, then the cab/engine battery.

The EHU will just charge the hab battery. That’s my observation from persistent overnight connection of the EHU beyond the hab being fully charging and the cab/engine battery not charging. Daytime off EHU the solar does boost the cab battery - with the Hab’s prior charging.
Reading the Compass Avantgarde OM doesn’t suggest any other scenario is missing.

I’ve gotten a Boxer 06 OM and that says disconnect the terminals to charge the engine battery with an external charger.
As my MH electricals are simple I’ll do that when needed. I’ve the radio’s code to hand (iirc )
There was enough sun today to keep that need away.

An upgrade I’ve put off is a battery master. That should help.

 

[David and Sally]

You need a Battery Master. That will charge the starter battery from the hab battery .

 

[autorouter]

I wouldn't hesitate to use my CTEK charger on any battery, leisure or starter, without disconnecting anything. It's only doing what the EHU charger, alternator or solar controller are doing. There are diodes to prevent any unwanted back-feeding.

 

[alh3010]

I’ve a 2006 Pug Boxer.
So far in lockdown the solar trickle charger is keeping cab & hab batteries levels about right.
But if I need to boost either battery it will be the cab battery. This is because the solar panel charges Hab1st, then cab.
My portable charger instructions say it can charge a battery that’s disconnected or used in situ.
How to decide is left to me knowing if my vehicle is OK with an in situ charge

Is the Pug Boxer one of those vehicles OK with in situ charging?
TIA

you can fit a battery master by vanbitz it charges the vehicle battery from the solar panel and liesure 240v charger automatically hope this helps.

BATTERY MASTER, LEISURE > Engine battery charging system :: Van Bitz

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[The Wino]

I think theres a similar trickle starter battery charger from the leisure battery from votronic.

 

[Borsuk]

Most modern vehicles don't like you disconnecting the battery to charge it. My wife's last car, a Galaxy had a warning sign not to disconnect the battery to charge it, my stepson ignored the warning, removed it to charge and we spent about 3 months doing the pairing dance with the keys to get them to work properly again as the immobiliser kept rejecting the codes and locked out the engine.
That was a 2008 model, I'd hate to see what a Euro 5 or 6 would be like afterwards.

 

[2657]

Most modern vehicles don't like you disconnecting the battery to charge it. My wife's last car, a Galaxy had a warning sign not to disconnect the battery to charge it, my stepson ignored the warning, removed it to charge and we spent about 3 months doing the pairing dance with the keys to get them to work properly again as the immobiliser kept rejecting the codes and locked out the engine.
That was a 2008 model, I'd hate to see what a Euro 5 or 6 would be like afterwards.

What happens when it needs a new battery?

 

[tonyidle]

Instructions to disconnect are in case you're tempted to use a very high output or "boost" charger that can temporarily lift the battery terminal voltage well above 14v. "Normal" chargers with outputs in the range 5A to 10A will not affect the vehicle electronics especially as they are normally smart chargers these days.

 

[kevenh]

Thanks for all the feedback.
I’ll have to balance convenience over only probably having a radio code to add if I disconnect the +ve terminal.

So far the solar trickle is delaying real concern I’ll have to take action.
I don’t expect you to remember old posts but the previous owner added a ring solar panel going via a controller to the batteries. It’s 2.4 w 17.5v @ 138mA

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[Catpirate]

It is fine to charge your battery "in situ" without disconnecting, many built in motor home chargers only supply a trickle charge to the vehicle battery (max 2A) and are insufficient to charge the battery to any extent. As mentioned above avoid using boost charging as this may damage equipment if the voltage rises above 14V. Some vehicle systems require the battery to be piggy backed with a 12V source when removed to avoid lots of complications. My Mercedes is one, the steering has to be reset along with lots of other minor bits.

 

[David and Sally]

What happens when it needs a new battery?

What I do on my motorbikes is connect a second battery with thin cable to the terminals before disconnecting so that there is always 12v to the bike.

 

[kevenh]

This simple Q just won't lie still

A battery master by vanbitz is exactly what I think our MH needs before any other electrical change.
I haven't bought one yet as I think I've over complicated how simple it could be to add - well, wiring wise.

I'm expecting I need to route a cable all the way too the cab battery in the engine bay and another cable to the leisure battery. And the leads on the battery master look too short for that.

But, at the solar controller, all the locations are there, in one place: A solar controller's outputs are 12v to the cab bat & 12v to the leisure bat.
Can I add the battery master there? That would be too easy.

 

[kevenh]

The problem with ^^ adding a BM to the outputs of the solar controller is a) that was added by the previous owner so I don't know exactly how it's wired up. & b) maybe logically there's sense in it but maybe there are better locations elsewhere. Best get the MH schematic out

 

[Ian Bosman]

The problem with ^^ adding a BM to the outputs of the solar controller is a) that was added by the previous owner so I don't know exactly how it's wired up. & b) maybe logically there's sense in it but maybe there are better locations elsewhere. Best get the MH schematic out

A smart charge can be used in situ as easier method with no bother.

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[The Wino]

The problem with ^^ adding a BM to the outputs of the solar controller is a) that was added by the previous owner so I don't know exactly how it's wired up. & b) maybe logically there's sense in it but maybe there are better locations elsewhere. Best get the MH schematic out

All you need for the battery master is a connection to the positive terminal of both batteries and an earth. The solar must go to the positive of the hab battery. I think the maximum current is one amp so it doesn't need to be a thick cable.

 

[David and Sally]

I have just fitted a BM. I was advised to fit it to the back of the electro block where the three wires go into the connectors and there is plenty of cable. If yours is the same as mine there are three battery cables there that are just what you want.
That would be fine if I could get to the back without risking buggering up any of the zillions of wires that are already wired into the front.

I mounted the BM in the leisure battery locker so two of the cables go straight onto the leisure positive and negative. I fitted a 10a fuse to the positive after advice from Vanbitz.

Then for the starter battery I ran a single core red live under the floor to the starter battery well and put a 10 amp fuse in both ends in case it shorted. So, in all three fuses. Connected it all up, bingo the starter battery is charging nicely thanks.

 

[kevenh]

I have just fitted a BM. I was advised to fit it to the back of the electro block where the three wires go into the connectors and there is plenty of cable. If yours is the same as mine there are three battery cables there that are just what you want.
That would be fine if I could get to the back without risking buggering up any of the zillions of wires that are already wired into the front.

I mounted the BM in the leisure battery locker so two of the cables go straight onto the leisure positive and negative. I fitted a 10a fuse to the positive after advice from Vanbitz.

Then for the starter battery I ran a single core red live under the floor to the starter battery well and put a 10 amp fuse in both ends in case it shorted. So, in all three fuses. Connected it all up, bingo the starter battery is charging nicely thanks.

Thanks. Sounds like how I should proceed