Alde 3010 circulation pump not running.

[Spawn_e_git]

Hi.
Burstner motorhome has Alde 3010 heating system with the old manual controller with the temp dial and three slider switches.

The circulation pump is not being turned on.

The alde system has 12v supply and you can hear the relays switching when you select heating or hot water and also the three different power settings.

There are two outputs for pumps, one for 24v and one for 240v but they are both connected together so I assume the 240v system is not part of this setup as the system has worked perfect until now.

The two removable fuses and the soldered fuse have been tested and are ok.

The hot water is working ok.

The thermostat is right up but still not pump.

the system has the stirred pump in the header tanks bit there is also what appears to be a pump right next to the heater but this is not even plugged in. this pump is connected into the heating pipes that go out to the radiators.

It seems that either the controller board is knackered or the thermostat part of the controller panel is knackered.

Any ideas and does anyone have a circuit diagram of the system?

 

[pappajohn]

Remove the pump from the header tank and ensure the impellor turns freely.
Disconnect the two wires to the pump and connect the pump across a 12v battery.
If it spins up its not the pump and you just saved around £120......pure rip-off for what it is.
If it doesn't spin... Get ripped off.

 

[Spawn_e_git]

Remove the pump from the header tank and ensure the impellor turns freely.
Disconnect the two wires to the pump and connect the pump across a 12v battery.
If it spins up its not the pump and you just saved around £120......pure rip-off for what it is.
If it doesn't spin... Get ripped off.

Hi.

Thanks for the reply. I have tested the voltage at the pump and there is no 12v to it so the pump is not being fed 12volt from the Alde system.

 

[monaco/frankia]

The pump that is connected in the pipe line by the heater unit is the circulation pump
and without that working then the water can't circulate so no heating
The original pump was a Hella plastic pump they are now not available and a new Alde
pump modification is available. The new pump is connected to the circuit with 2 connections 1 12v and 1 240v and the wiring harness is supplied with new pump

 

[funflair]

Hi Spawn_e_git

If you go down to page 12 you will find a wiring diagram, can you hear the little click when you turn the thermostat to call for heat.

Martin

https://www.leisurespares.co.uk/files/ww/alde_3010_service.pdf

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[Augusta08]

Phone Andy or Philip at Alde they will advise without pushing you into a service visit. Although having had mine done this week I can thoroughly recommend them. My problems were not the Alde 3010 unit or pump, but a wire underneath the van which had been pushed against the chassis.

Gerry

 

[Geo]

Should a gone to Lidle's

 

[Spawn_e_git]

The pump that is connected in the pipe line by the heater unit is the circulation pump
and without that working then the water can't circulate so no heating.

This pump has never been connected.

The plug in my hand has never been connected.

 

[Spawn_e_git]

This is the pump that usually runs but no 12v is being supplied to it.

This is the control panel.

This is the wiring to the pump with a switch which I believe shorts out the resistor which gives two speeds of pump.

Switch.

Things got worse last night. We are currently at Ferry Meadows and we have been heating the van from a small fan heater and the crap heater that is part of the A/C unit.
Then at 2am. The electric went off to the half of the site I'm on ☹
We tried to rough it out but without this pump running, I cannot heat the van on gas!
04:30 I'm driving the van to the other part of the site with the electric still working.
Today no onsite toilets at the moment......

 

[funflair]

This pump has never been connected.
View attachment 351788

The plug in my hand has never been connected.

My guess is that will be a 240v pump that has never been used on your system.

Martin

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[BreweryDave]

To test the header pump, try connecting the wires directly to a small household battery, like one from a smoke alarm, to see if it actually works. I ran 12v LED awning lights off one of these for ages, even though they’re actually 9v!
might get you out of trouble!
also, as said above, spin the impeller and wiggle the unit, worked when mine packed up.

 

[Spawn_e_git]

To test the header pump, try connecting the wires directly to a small household battery, like one from a smoke alarm, to see if it actually works. I ran 12v LED awning lights off one of these for ages, even though they’re actually 9v!
might get you out of trouble!
also, as said above, spin the impeller and wiggle the unit, worked when mine packed up.

That's exactly what I'm trying to do. I have heat exchanger from the engine under the floor which has a pump. I have tried switching this pump on and it's running but not warming the rad pipes up. I assume this pump is to circulate the water through the heat exchanger as the other side will use the engine water pump but for some reason it's not happening.

 

[funflair]

That's exactly what I'm trying to do. I have heat exchanger from the engine under the floor which has a pump. I have tried switching this pump on and it's running but not warming the rad pipes up. I assume this pump is to circulate the water through the heat exchanger as the other side will use the engine water pump but for some reason it's not happening.

To use heat from your heat exchanger you would need the pump in the header tank working to circulate around the system, the pump with the heat exchanger will run the water around the engine when it's not running so warming it up for cold starts.

Martin

 

[lunarman]

I don't have any experience of the heating system that you have, but if the picture of the control panel you have posted is how you have it set isn't it set for hot water only. Should the control lever on the right be set in the middle for hot water and heating?

As I say I may be completely wrong.

 

[Ditcha]

That's exactly what I'm trying to do. I have heat exchanger from the engine under the floor which has a pump. I have tried switching this pump on and it's running but not warming the rad pipes up. I assume this pump is to circulate the water through the heat exchanger as the other side will use the engine water pump but for some reason it's not happening.

Yeah your right that pump is used to heat the engine when in cold climates so uses the heat exchanger in reverse to what you need

funflair beat me to it

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[BreweryDave]

I don't have any experience of the heating system that you have, but if the picture of the control panel you have posted is how you have it set isn't it set for hot water only. Should the control lever on the right be set in the middle for hot water and heating?

As I say I may be completely wrong.

Correct?
also, the red light should be on on the panel, and I doubt whatever leccy you’re on is good enough for level 3 ?
Perhaps you’ve tripped it?

my panel became temperamental, but a mechanic removed it and sprayed the connections on the back with something from a can, some electrical conductive spray thingy, and it worked again?

at the end of the day, if the header tank pump isnt going, you’ll get no heating.

 

[funflair]

I don't have any experience of the heating system that you have, but if the picture of the control panel you have posted is how you have it set isn't it set for hot water only. Should the control lever on the right be set in the middle for hot water and heating?

As I say I may be completely wrong.

That's interesting as first impressions say it's the same as ours, BUT

there is a subtle difference in the logo's for the top pump position, I know that on ours pictured above it would run the pump continuously and the thermostat would modulate the boiler temperature on the top position, a stupid feature in my opinion

Martin

EDIT read the instructions for 3010 slider panel and YES top position is hot water only.

 

[funflair]

Correct?
also, the red light should be on on the panel, and I doubt whatever leccy you’re on is good enough for level 3 ?
Perhaps you’ve tripped it?

my panel became temperamental, but a mechanic removed it and sprayed the connections on the back with something from a can, some electrical conductive spray thingy, and it worked again?

at the end of the day, if the header tank pump isnt going, you’ll get no heating.

I think the red light is just to show a gas fault, ours flashes when it lights and then it stays off.

Martin

 

[rb62]

On our van the switch in your hand is for the load monitor.

 

[BreweryDave]

I think the red light is just to show a gas fault, ours flashes when it lights and then it stays off.

Martin

I think you’re right, my memory fades with age.....and beer?

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[M-J]

My header pump was spinning but didn’t send fluid around the rads, a replacement pump solved the issue.

Is the exposed top of the pump overly hot to touch?

 

[Spawn_e_git]

Lol, yeah I know the switch was for HW only. I set it to that when I realised the pump was not running to reduce the risk of the heat exchanger boiling.

I have shunted a 12v feed to the pump from the main 12v supply to the Alde unit. Pump is now running and the pipes are getting warm, just hope that the actual heater is working so I'm not feeling the warmth from the residual heat in the exchanger unit.

I can hear the click from the thermostat when it's turn up or down so hopefully it's working.

 

[funflair]

Lol, yeah I know the switch was for HW only. I set it to that when I realised the pump was not running to reduce the risk of the heat exchanger boiling.

I have shunted a 12v feed to the pump from the main 12v supply to the Alde unit. Pump is now running and the pipes are getting warm, just hope that the actual heater is working so I'm not feeling the warmth from the residual heat in the exchanger unit.

I can hear the click from the thermostat when it's turn up or down so hopefully it's working.

That sounds promising you won't have thermostatic control of course so will need to switch the pump off.

Martin

 

[BreweryDave]

That sounds promising you won't have thermostatic control of course so will need to switch the pump off.

Martin

Nah, he’s in the U.K., will need to leave it on 24/7 ?

 

[Spawn_e_git]

Nah, he’s in the U.K., will need to leave it on 24/7 ?

Ha ha, yeah cold UK.

When the thermostat is adjusted I hear a loud click like a relay so I'm hoping that it controls the heater relay. From memory I think the circ pump runs all the time as I remember it getting on my nerves some times.

The heating appears to be working as the rads are getting warm.

Only issue is the 12v feed I've shunted off it permanent so even turning off the main 12v from the control panel will not cut the pump so I'll have to pull the scotch lock apart tomorrow when i put it back in storage tomorro.

I'll give Alde a call Monday to see what they say. If it's expensive like replacing the board I'll just wire the pump to the switched 12v feed. Not ping £xxx if a simple wiring mod will work around it ?

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[funflair]

You have by-passed the thermostat,

Martin

https://products.alde.se/storage/media/15554025175cb58f1503a60/manoverpanel-mekanisk-3010-214-v-3010-19-rev-964.pdf

 

[Spawn_e_git]

You have by-passed the thermostat,

Martin

https://products.alde.se/storage/media/15554025175cb58f1503a60/manoverpanel-mekanisk-3010-214-v-3010-19-rev-964.pdf

Why?

The thermostat does not to the best of my memory control the pump, it controls a relay to switch the heating element on/off.

 

[pappajohn]

Why?

The thermostat does not to the best of my memory control the pump, it controls a relay to switch the heating element on/off.

Then how does it switch the gas off when on gas.
On mine the t/stat switched the pump on and off.
No circulation, rads cool t/stat switches back on... Repeat.
The boiler has an inbuilt overheat stat in the end of the water jacket to protect the boiler.

 

[funflair]

Why?

The thermostat does not to the best of my memory control the pump, it controls a relay to switch the heating element on/off.

I am 99% sure that yours will be controlling the pump and the boiler control on its own thermostat, otherwise you would not have hot water when the heating turns down as the hot water is just a "jacket" around the central heating tank, on our controller which is slightly different to yours we have the two positions for the pump setting, one controls the pump on/off to regulate heat via the thermostat and the other has the pump on full time and the thermostat controls the boiler temperature but this way the domestic hot water cools down with the heating cooling.

Martin

 

[funflair]

Boiler cutaway, you can see that the domestic hot water is wrapped around the glycol heating fluid which is why you can operate the heating without any water in the domestic side.

Glycol connections on the right and domestic on the left.

Martin

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