Absorption fridge (3 way) stopped working on battery

[c7hru]

As title says, our dometic absorption fridge stopped working on 12v supply whilst driving. Had been fine up until this point. Also, the step does not automatically retract anymore when I turn the ignition on. Assumed it is a D+ issue. Have changed fuse on main EBL for D+ and also checked small 5a fuse in the pillar next to drivers seat. No change. I have a Hobby 2022 on a Citroen relay chassis. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[Cush]

I’m no expert, but does the same relay control both functions? Can you locate it. Mine are easy as next to the vehicle battery on a 2003 van. Im sure an expert will be along soon. Can’t see what sort of van you have from your avatar as I’m in a phone

 

[c7hru]

I’m no expert, but does the same relay control both functions? Can you locate it. Mine are easy as next to the vehicle battery on a 2003 van. Im sure an expert will be along soon. Can’t see what sort of van you have from your avatar as I’m in a phone

Yes, it does control both functions as far as I am aware? I potentially could if I knew what I was looking for a where to look it’s a 2022 Citroen Relay Hobby coachbuilt (overcab). Have been going round in circles online and getting nowhere so hoping someone can give me a little bit of a nudge in the right direction! There seems to be “relay chatter” coming from the b pillar which from my limited knowledge indicates that the signal is trying to establish but cannot…

 

[Cush]

Hope someone who knows tha ban can help. What sort of power supply unit does it have? Sargent? German? I learned today that when I removed the relay on mine, the 12v doesn’tswitcht off and the step doesn’t retract. I removed it because I don’t need the 12 V feed when engine running as i swapped out the 3 way

 

[namwaldog]

On our 2010 Ducato based Burstner, there is a 20A fuse at the +ve terminal of the starter battery that provides power to the Dometic F/F.

 

[Jim Schush]

We have had similar issues with our Thetford fridge not working on 12v whilst driving.
The first occasion was caused by a burned out connector close to the Electroblock under the passenger seat, this was repaired by replacing the connector.
The second occasion was caused by a 20amp fuse blowing on the fridge circuit board, replaced circuit board everything works ok.
The last failure was caused when the 12v feed going into the Electroblock burnt out which in turn caused a failure within the Electroblock. Electroblock required removal and repair.
I think our issue relates to the our fridge, on 12v it uses 205w, I believe this relates to about a 17amp draw! As we use our van a lot, its not unusual for us to drive for several hours a day. I was advised this level of a power draw over a long period was towards the higher end of the Electroblock working parameters. After the last repair I chose to turn off the fridge when driving in order to avoid future failures.
Earlier this year I chose to re wire the fridges12v supply, totally bypassing the EBL.
I think the various wire, fuse holder and fuse cost less than £20 from 12v planet, the fridge now works as it should and the EBL is protected. Hope this helps.

 

[Barchetta47]

Earlier this year I chose to re wire the fridges12v supply, totally bypassing the EBL.

We have done the same and it’s worked perfectly for 7 years.

 

[mitzimad]

All electro blocks seem to struggle woth fridge connections i need to alter mine which i did on previous vans