Fridge Fuse question (2 Viewers)

mike9jr

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Hi all,

Found a duff fuse in the box in the wardrobe (Bessecarr E410), replaced it with a new 10amp but curious as to what it was protecting. There's 6 fuses and it was the 2nd from the left. The only thing I thought it might be was the 12v fridge fuse??

I've trawled the handbook and t'internet. Anyone shed any light on it?

Mike
 

cmcardle75

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Hi all,

Found a duff fuse in the box in the wardrobe (Bessecarr E410), replaced it with a new 10amp but curious as to what it was protecting. There's 6 fuses and it was the 2nd from the left. The only thing I thought it might be was the 12v fridge fuse??

I've trawled the handbook and t'internet. Anyone shed any light on it?

Mike

Pull it back out again and see what doesn't work. Try all your lights, fridge, 12V sockets, water pump etc. The size of the fuse might also give a clue.
 
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mike9jr

mike9jr

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All seems ok...how do you know, apart from the milk going off, if the fridge is working on 12v?? Any way of telling? I suspect not. It works fine on Gas and mains, but seemed not to chill on 12 so I suspect (and hope) that the 10amp fuse I found blown is for that.... :)

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scotjimland

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All seems ok...how do you know, apart from the milk going off, if the fridge is working on 12v?? Any way of telling? I suspect not. It works fine on Gas and mains, but seemed not to chill on 12 so I suspect (and hope) that the 10amp fuse I found blown is for that.... :)

next question you should ask is .. WHY .. did it blow

fuses don't blow for no reason.. they don't get tired and say.. "that's it, I'm off for a blow" .. they blow for a reason that you need to investigate..

if it is indeed the fuse for the 12v to the fridge it may have blown if the heater element failed.. so relacing may not 'fix' the problem..

other causes of a fuse blowing are damaged or chaffed wiring shorting or earthing... rodent damage.. etc
 

DBK

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All seems ok...how do you know, apart from the milk going off, if the fridge is working on 12v?? Any way of telling? I suspect not. It works fine on Gas and mains, but seemed not to chill on 12 so I suspect (and hope) that the 10amp fuse I found blown is for that.... :)
The 12v for the fridge should only work with the engine running.
If you have a volt meter, put it across the terminals, set it to measure current, start the engine and then turn the fridge between 12v and off and see what happens. You will probably need someone to give the throttle a tickle so the alternator is working. But, before you do this replace the fuse and check it doesn't blow when fridge is turned to 12v.
 

cmcardle75

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If you have a volt meter, put it across the terminals, set it to measure current,

DO NOT DO THIS! Putting a meter on current settings and putting it across terminals like this will cause a dead short. If you are lucky, you will have melted leads and a broken multimeter. If you are unlucky, you'll will get burns from the leads and the motorhome will burn and set fire to your house.

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cmcardle75

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All seems ok...how do you know, apart from the milk going off, if the fridge is working on 12v?? Any way of telling? I suspect not. It works fine on Gas and mains, but seemed not to chill on 12 so I suspect (and hope) that the 10amp fuse I found blown is for that.... :)

Mine has a light when on 12V. Does yours? If the fuse is OK, the light will be on, although this doesn't mean it is actually cooling if the heating element is shot.
 

DBK

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DO NOT DO THIS! Putting a meter on current settings and putting it across terminals like this will cause a dead short. If you are lucky, you will have melted leads and a broken multimeter. If you are unlucky, you'll will get burns from the leads and the motorhome will burn and set fire to your house.
Read the last sentence of my post. What I meant was the terminals of the fuse holder. This probably wasn't clear, apologies if so. There are no doubt people who would trying shorting the battery!
 

cmcardle75

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Read the last sentence of my post. What I meant was the terminals of the fuse holder. This probably wasn't clear, apologies if so. There are no doubt people who would trying shorting the battery!

Indeed. Now I understand what you were meaning!

Personally, I wouldn't advise anyone non-qualified to use a meter on any current setting. Just too many things to go wrong!

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scotjimland

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Mine has a light when on 12V. Does yours? If the fuse is OK, the light will be on, although this doesn't mean it is actually cooling if the heating element is shot.

The fridge has two independent 12v supplies..

A permanent 12v supply for the electronics and internal light, and won't or shouldn't have a 10 amp fuse.. but it may have blown before and uprated by a bodger.

The second 12v supply feeds the 12v heater and is only live when the engine is running.. normally the fuse is under the bonnet near the fridge relay.. not in a wardrobe...
The purpose of a fuse is to protect the cable so, should be close to the supply source.. not halfway down the line.. which makes me think it is the permanent 12v or a supply for something else..
 
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mike9jr

mike9jr

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Thanks all.
Yes cheers Jim. Its going in for its MOT on Wednesday so I might ask them to have a little look and confirm whats what. I haven't checked the fridge relay but all of the fuses in all of the places (!!!!) seem in tact now.

Its funny that the ciggarette lighter/aux sockets were blown too? Coincidence I think. I can't find a fuse plan for the fuse box in the wardrobe anywhere. It would help a lot if I knew what fuses related to what item!
 

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