Wiring additional sockets. Where do I connect?

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I'm planning to fit an additional 240V socket, a USB socket and a 12V cigar lighter type socket. They will all be close to the battery, the Electroblock (EBL271), and to the mains consumer unit. What's the best place to connect each?

240V socket to the consumer unit?

The other two via the Electroblock somehow, as they will run off mains when on hookup, but off 12V when not? I assume the Electroblock has clever switching inside that does that for the existing 12V and USB sockets?

I know the difference between positive and negative, but as you can guess, that's about it...... :giggle:
 
The other two via the Electroblock somehow, as they will run off mains when on hookup, but off 12V when not? I assume the Electroblock has clever switching inside that does that for the existing 12V and USB sockets?
No, all 12v sockets run from the battery, the EBL charges the battery.
Should you really be doing this?

The 12v sockets are best connected to spare outlets on the EBL.

Mains sockets will depend on how your wiring is done, a lot of continental manufacturers use Wago sockets which makes it easy to break into the circuit and connect another socket.
 
In the past I have added One 240v socket daisy chained from the existing socket. Nothing high powered going in either socket so no different to sticking a double plug in the existing socket.
12V additions? Daisy chained from an existing 12V and added it's own fuse in line. Also added an additional USB socket direct from leisure battery - you guessed it, with another inline fuse. I have also made a lead before that went into a hidden Caravan two slot 12V socket (hidden in cupboard where original TV went) and then to the back plate of a quality USB and Hella Plug socket......

1648126281292.png
Plus this (cut off 12v socket and used wires to back of the adaptor in the image on the left).
1648126582414.png

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I fitted a mini fuse board that was protected by a main fuse. This is connected to the leisure batteries. I then individually wired in 12v sockets and USB to this fuse board and each having its own fuse.
 
I was hoping to add in the new 12V socket and USB so that they are switched by the Aux switch on the Schaudt control panel, but from the comments so far I realise I can wire them direct to the leisure battery, as long as they have inline fuses. Now that I think about it I don't think I'm bothered about the new sockets being on the existing AUX circuit. It'll be a lot easier just to wire them direct to the battery. Cheers chaps. (Waits for more comments totally knocking down this approach.........)
 
Now that I think about it I don't think I'm bothered about the new sockets being on the existing AUX circuit. It'll be a lot easier just to wire them direct to the battery. Cheers chaps. (Waits for more comments totally knocking down this approach.........)
OK, you asked for it. There are four 'Spare' circuits, which cone from the 15-way connector, each with a 15A fuse labelled 'Auxiliaire' 3, 4, 5 and 6. The pins on the 15-way connector are:
Spare 3: pos 13, neg 1
Spare 4: pos 14, neg 2
Spare 5: pos 15 neg 3
Spare 6: pos 10 neg 4

Pin 1 is marked on the EBL front panel, with an arrow showing that the numbers increase horizontally to the right. Some of thesespare circuits might be already used, but some of the pins might be free. It's a Mate'N'Lok (MnL) connector, and the pins are separate, crimp a pin onto a wire and push it into the right place in the plug, small barbs lock it in place.

All these four spare circuits are switched off by the AUX switch.

The EBL271 manual and diagram are available on the Schaudt website, in various languages including English.
 
Thanks, autorouter . A real brain dump. It will take me a while to work through that lot. Not sure if I've got that many spare circuits. If I decide to wire the USB socket and the 12V socket direct to the battery, is there any major disadvantage?
 
If I decide to wire the USB socket and the 12V socket direct to the battery, is there any major disadvantage?
No major disadvantage. If you were just adding a socket or two it might be easier to just insert a wire and pin into the 15-way connector, and it's already got a fuse to protect it. If you're putting several sockets in, you could wire a 6-way fuse box direct from the battery, with switches to give many more options. Remember USB sockets take a small drain even with nothing connected, so best to wire in a switch somewhere to isolate them

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No major disadvantage. If you were just adding a socket or two it might be easier to just insert a wire and pin into the 15-way connector, and it's already got a fuse to protect it. If you're putting several sockets in, you could wire a 6-way fuse box direct from the battery, with switches to give many more options. Remember USB sockets take a small drain even with nothing connected, so best to wire in a switch somewhere to isolate them
Cheers, plenty to think about. I need to get a good look at what spare sockets there are before I decide how to play it.
 
Just to add, beware the really cheap 1amp and 2.1amp USB sockets, I have seen several melted
 
.....The other two via the Electroblock somehow, as they will run off mains when on hookup, but off 12V when not? I assume the Electroblock has clever switching inside that does that for the existing 12V and USB sockets? ....
It may be the way you worded it, but it really that is the understanding, it would not just be a little foolish but dangerous and expensive if you just had a go on your own.

Yes, it is good to do what you can AND what you understand yourself, but key phrase is "what you understand". Anyone can physically connect two wires together, but knowing what you are doing when doing that is another matter.

Would you change a timing belt on your engine yourself? Maybe you would and you can, but I certainly would not.
 
Would you change a timing belt on your engine yourself? Maybe you would and you can, but I certainly would not.
I would have 20 years ago, can't be arsed now.:LOL:

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OK, you asked for it. There are four 'Spare' circuits, which cone from the 15-way connector, each with a 15A fuse labelled 'Auxiliaire' 3, 4, 5 and 6. The pins on the 15-way connector are:
Spare 3: pos 13, neg 1
Spare 4: pos 14, neg 2
Spare 5: pos 15 neg 3
Spare 6: pos 10 neg 4

Pin 1 is marked on the EBL front panel, with an arrow showing that the numbers increase horizontally to the right. Some of thesespare circuits might be already used, but some of the pins might be free. It's a Mate'N'Lok (MnL) connector, and the pins are separate, crimp a pin onto a wire and push it into the right place in the plug, small barbs lock it in place.

All these four spare circuits are switched off by the AUX switch.

The EBL271 manual and diagram are available on the Schaudt website, in various languages including English.
Couple of questions.

As far as I can tell, on the EBL271, the MnL connectors are the standard size not the mini version? Agreed?

You mention locking pins. Does this mean once the pin is in the connector it can't be removed? (I can see how the connectors themselves come out)
 
It may be the way you worded it, but it really that is the understanding, it would not just be a little foolish but dangerous and expensive if you just had a go on your own.

Yes, it is good to do what you can AND what you understand yourself, but key phrase is "what you understand". Anyone can physically connect two wires together, but knowing what you are doing when doing that is another matter.
I appreciate your concern. I may have downplayed my abilities a bit. And I started this thread is in order that I do understand exactly what is needed before I go anywhere near it. :giggle:
 
You mention locking pins. Does this mean once the pin is in the connector it can't be removed?
If you look at the pins, they have a couple of small barbs sticking out, that lock against the plastic shell when they are inserted. If you do this a lot, you can get a special tool (a steel tube with the correct inside and outside diameters, with a handle) that will push in the barbs by the correct amount so you can pull out the pin.
Also you can get a tool that does a variety of these plugs, like this
Before I bought this set, I had some success with a couple of fine jewellers screwdrivers to push the barbs in. That sometimes flattens them, so be sure to pry out the barbs if you are going to re-insert the pin.
 
If you look at the pins, they have a couple of small barbs sticking out, that lock against the plastic shell when they are inserted. If you do this a lot, you can get a special tool (a steel tube with the correct inside and outside diameters, with a handle) that will push in the barbs by the correct amount so you can pull out the pin.
Also you can get a tool that does a variety of these plugs, like this
Before I bought this set, I had some success with a couple of fine jewellers screwdrivers to push the barbs in. That sometimes flattens them, so be sure to pry out the barbs if you are going to re-insert the pin.
Thanks, that's helpful. I'm not planning on pulling them out again, but at least I know now.
 
But i still cant cope with paying for simple stuff like standard maintenance. to think i used to change big ends after tea just for fun, well good mates.
 
But i still cant cope with paying for simple stuff like standard maintenance. to think i used to change big ends after tea just for fun, well good mates.
I was mulling that over just the other day. I've been procrastinating over whether to wash the m/h or take it up the road to the E. European hand wash lads to do for 25 quid as it seems a shame for me to graft in such lovely weather.
I used to be a pit mechanic at Brands Hatch occasionally for a pal and can't now believe we didn't give a second's thought to changing his Mini gearbox ratios at an event. I changed a water pump roadside on my ageing Citroen a few years ago whilst on holiday but CBA'd now.
In days past the family had first call if there was any stray money so there wasn't much of an option but to do most jobs myself.
 
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If you wire the USB sockets directly to the battery make sure you add an in-line fuse, something around 5 amps should be enough. For safety you want to use as small a fuse as possible.

But as already suggested it would be preferable to wire it to a circuit which can be turned off by the Aux switch.

For the 240V sockets have a look where the existing sockets are wired and see if you connect there.
 
If you wire the USB sockets directly to the battery make sure you add an in-line fuse, something around 5 amps should be enough. For safety you want to use as small a fuse as possible.

But as already suggested it would be preferable to wire it to a circuit which can be turned off by the Aux switch.

For the 240V sockets have a look where the existing sockets are wired and see if you connect there.
Cheers. I'll probably wire the 12V stuff into the spare AUX circuits as suggested by autorouter My new 240V socket is nowhere near the existing sockets, but very near the consumer unit, so I'm going to investigate patching in to that.
 
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My new 240V socket is nowhere near the existing sockets, but very near the consumer unit, so I'm going to investigate patching in to that.
What I meant is not the socket end but where the wires going to the existing sockets come from. There may be a junction box somewhere.

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Cheers. I'll probably wire the 12V stuff into the spare AUX circuits as suggested by autorouter My new 240V socket is nowhere near the existing sockets, but very near the consumer unit, so I'm going to investigate patching in to that.
Concentrate on wire size and correct in line fuses on the 12v sockets
 
I would suggest your first connection is with an auto electrician, your second connection is with the kettle in your house to make him / her a nice cuppa, and your third connection should be with your online banking app to pay for a nice safe job 😜😂
 

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