dabhand
LIFE MEMBER
See Post #47 on original thread which is informative and very useful but beware
www.motorhomefun.co.uk
UPDATE APRIL 2021
Although I completed this fix, on recent information gleaned I am left wondering wether it was the right thing to do? If you complete the fix use it as a temporary fix only measure to get your boiler on again, here’s why!
I shall elaborate, I took my van to Alde yesterday for a boiler service and fluid change, on examination the engineer said he would have to fit a new PCB as I had made a modification to the board ie a push button resettable thermal fuse, as a gas safe engineer he therefore said the type approval of the boiler had been compromised and he could not work on it unless he replaced the PCB. I agreed and he carried on. (If I had just replaced the fuse like for like he would have been none the wiser, however.....)
On further investigation he said that in actual fact what I had fitted was a resettable thermal breaker (Techna T16 thermal breaker as mentioned in post #22, this is an AC breaker it is not the same as a fuse and should not be fitted, as it only trips under load and not due to the heat, it needs to tested under rigorous conditions to gain type approval
The non resettable fuse in post #1 is the one that should be used, you can get the correct one on EBay
www.ebay.co.uk
The engineer further stated that if the thermal fuse has blown there has clearly been an overheat situation with the boiler and it should be investigated at the earliest possibility rather than just replace the fuse. I have to agree, here’s why......
so back to the service and fluid change, on stripping down the case of my boiler it was clear there had been a leak of glycol around the main unit causing extensive corrosion and bowing of the boiler, probably due to lack of air cushion, which had probably been caused by either an excessive over heat situation, or frost, or both. The result was I would have to renew the boiler shell at a cost of £900 odd utilising the bits off the old boiler or fit an entirely new system for £2300. I am now the proud owner of a new Alde 3020 heating system in my van!!
Lessons learned, specifically for Alde systems, but others may be similar-
1. If your boilers thermal fuse blows, find out why, even if fixing it yourself, there’s a reason!
2. Don’t fit a breaker instead of a fuse, fit the exact same as a replacement.
3. Change the Glycol every two years on older systems, 5 years with the newer glycol.
4. If your using more than an egg cup full of glycol a year (his words) find out why!
5. Renew the air cushion every 10 days of use. Switch off the water pump, Open the safety -/drain valve of the water heater (water dump) for 20 seconds or until about a litre of water drains out. This allows the air cushion to renew at the top of the tank which is essential for absorbing pressure surges. ( no I didn’t know that either)
6. Drain the water boiler every winter as well as water tank (heating will still work)
7. Bleed the system once a year. Turn heating on till warm, turn off and bleed.
So of course, if your like me and have never bothered with any of the above that’s fine, and you too could have the following items off a 2012 Alde 3010 system for sale:-
Gas Valve
Gas Burner
Glycol Pump
Combustion Fan
PCB panel complete with thermal fuse (bench tested at Alde)
If you have ANY problems with an ALDE system the guys there are only too willing to help with any queries, give them a ring, or me as I’m now an expert
Hope the above is of some use and may save some of you from a VERY expensive fix!
Alde 3010 Blank Control Panel Solution/Fix
For all the fellow mh'ers who find their Alde control panel blank and who are told they need a new PCB board (at a cost of £280)! Please read this thread and the cost of repair will be considerably less at £0.59p! Last week whilst in Italy I woke up to find my control panel blank and no sign of...
www.motorhomefun.co.uk
UPDATE APRIL 2021
Although I completed this fix, on recent information gleaned I am left wondering wether it was the right thing to do? If you complete the fix use it as a temporary fix only measure to get your boiler on again, here’s why!
I shall elaborate, I took my van to Alde yesterday for a boiler service and fluid change, on examination the engineer said he would have to fit a new PCB as I had made a modification to the board ie a push button resettable thermal fuse, as a gas safe engineer he therefore said the type approval of the boiler had been compromised and he could not work on it unless he replaced the PCB. I agreed and he carried on. (If I had just replaced the fuse like for like he would have been none the wiser, however.....)
On further investigation he said that in actual fact what I had fitted was a resettable thermal breaker (Techna T16 thermal breaker as mentioned in post #22, this is an AC breaker it is not the same as a fuse and should not be fitted, as it only trips under load and not due to the heat, it needs to tested under rigorous conditions to gain type approval
The non resettable fuse in post #1 is the one that should be used, you can get the correct one on EBay
Alde 3010 Thermal fuse 91°C (AE-P-HE-00006) | eBay
We have sourced these rare 91°C types for you to replace in the boiler. Many people fit higher temperature fuses - this could cause a safety issue.www.ebay.co.uk
The engineer further stated that if the thermal fuse has blown there has clearly been an overheat situation with the boiler and it should be investigated at the earliest possibility rather than just replace the fuse. I have to agree, here’s why......
so back to the service and fluid change, on stripping down the case of my boiler it was clear there had been a leak of glycol around the main unit causing extensive corrosion and bowing of the boiler, probably due to lack of air cushion, which had probably been caused by either an excessive over heat situation, or frost, or both. The result was I would have to renew the boiler shell at a cost of £900 odd utilising the bits off the old boiler or fit an entirely new system for £2300. I am now the proud owner of a new Alde 3020 heating system in my van!!
Lessons learned, specifically for Alde systems, but others may be similar-
1. If your boilers thermal fuse blows, find out why, even if fixing it yourself, there’s a reason!
2. Don’t fit a breaker instead of a fuse, fit the exact same as a replacement.
3. Change the Glycol every two years on older systems, 5 years with the newer glycol.
4. If your using more than an egg cup full of glycol a year (his words) find out why!
5. Renew the air cushion every 10 days of use. Switch off the water pump, Open the safety -/drain valve of the water heater (water dump) for 20 seconds or until about a litre of water drains out. This allows the air cushion to renew at the top of the tank which is essential for absorbing pressure surges. ( no I didn’t know that either)
6. Drain the water boiler every winter as well as water tank (heating will still work)
7. Bleed the system once a year. Turn heating on till warm, turn off and bleed.
So of course, if your like me and have never bothered with any of the above that’s fine, and you too could have the following items off a 2012 Alde 3010 system for sale:-
Gas Valve
Gas Burner
Glycol Pump
Combustion Fan
PCB panel complete with thermal fuse (bench tested at Alde)
If you have ANY problems with an ALDE system the guys there are only too willing to help with any queries, give them a ring, or me as I’m now an expert
Hope the above is of some use and may save some of you from a VERY expensive fix!
