Tyres

Innkeeper

Innkeeper

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Learning all the time
Hi me again. Looking at the internet about tyres. So the ones on my wheel are a bit knobbly
20200421_164105.jpg


Would I notice the difference if I got some of these.
20200421_164724.jpg

Or
20200421_164840.jpg

When I say difference mean. Easy so could go futher/faster.
These are just budget ones. So not the best out there. Dont want to spend to much on my BSO (Bike shaped object) ?‍♂️?
 
Depends on where you expect to ride, your originals look like hybrid tyres, suitable for a bit of rough tracks.

The new ones look like road tyres to me.
 
If your just staying in the road then smoother tyres will be best. If going on road and tracks then you can get some half and half. (y)
 
Mikey RV said:
If your just staying in the road then smoother tyres will be best. If going on road and tracks then you can get some half and half. (y)
Click to expand...
So for roads one of the above?

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Make sure they have the kevlar belt for anti puncture and the second ones would be the choice
 
Likely to only notice a difference if you pedal harder.
Talking of harder, pump the tyres as hard as they allow.
 
Until recently I would have agreed with two about pumping up tyres as hard as possible.
However, new research/thinking now dictates this not to be case in order to get the fastest ride. So much so that I have reduced both of my tyres by 30 psi, going from 110 to 80 in each.
A quick look on youtube about best tyre pressures will give you lots to look at. The GCN videos are probably the best. I was very skeptical but am now converted.
 
Looking at your picture you could go a bit thinner on the tyres and still keep the same wheel as well. A thinner, more smooth tyre will seem a lot faster.

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Road bike tyre manufacturers have fancy tread patterns to try & standout.
Smooth tread works best. Aquaplaning isn’t a concern.

But for your road use tyres for a mountain bike frame Kenda make a few tyr3s.
E.g. Kenda Big City Slick Wire Bead Bicycle Tire, Blackwall, 26 x 1.95 Amazon product ASIN B00V3HW3JA
 
Neil Bedwin said:
Looking at your picture you could go a bit thinner on the tyres and still keep the same wheel as well. A thinner, more smooth tyre will seem a lot faster.
Click to expand...
My tyres say 27.5 x 1.95. When you say thinner how thin could I go and it still be ok? Also you say seem a lot faster do you mean faster. Want to go futher as well.
 
Smooth tyres have a lower rolling resistance than nobly tyres.
So easier to get going, keep going and later stop ?

Your rim’s width is part of the answer to how narrow you can go. I’ve not had to go narrow on my bikes so haven’t much more to add ?

IMO The 1.95 You mention for a mountain bike wheel is OK for basing a search of smooth road only tyres on.
 
kevenh said:
Smooth tyres have a lower rolling resistance than nobly tyres.
So easier to get going, keep going and later stop ?

Your rim’s width is part of the answer to how narrow you can go. I’ve not had to go narrow on my bikes so haven’t much more to add ?

IMO The 1.95 You mention for a mountain bike wheel is OK for basing a search of smooth road only tyres on.
Click to expand...
Have you got a link to something that may be suitable. Bearing in mind am on a budget at the moment
 
Well thought I would increase the pressure in the *high pressure* tyres on my hybrid states between 70 to 90 PSI so put 85 in it, pushed bike to end of drive and ended up with Police coming round as someone had reported a gunshot! No it was the tyre letting go when *fat boy* (me) SAT ON IT! All the neighbours were out looking round and more than just a puncture it half blew the tyre out as well. Took off tyre and innertube and had spares then started to reinflate using high pressure pump son had donated , thought it strange that although the tyre was hard it was only registering 20PSI on the gauge. He had re calibrated it so 20 PSI was actually 80psi! I had put about 150 PSI in it! To be fair it was a cracking bang!
 
I run my mountain bike tyres Bontrager team issue 3 2.3”tubeless at around 30 psi on the road and 25psi off road although their still fine even lower.
The lower pressure does make a difference but don’t go over the max pressure on the side of the tyre.
Your existing tyres look fine to me don5 go narrower than the rim width
 
Regarding tyre width the logic is usually that the tyre once fitted should not be narrower than the wheel rim itself, though the hard part is what width should you buy in the first place to achieve that.....

The 1.95's you have on show that there's some typical tyre spread on there so a thinner tyre is possible. I wouldn't go narrower than 1.35 though (that's 34mm so 15mm less than your current tyre) And at that spec 27.5 x 1.35 you can find some very fast Schwalbe Kojacks !!! They are great, fast touring tyres and are kevlar belted so offer good puncture protection. I run them on my Brompton (diddy little 16" wheels) and they cope remarkably well with all i throw at it and they are very fast.

www.bikester.co.uk

SCHWALBE Kojak Performance Clincher Tyre RaceGuard Speedgrip 27.5x1.35" black | Bikester.co.uk

The SCHWALBE Kojak Performance Clincher Tyre RaceGuard Speedgrip 27.5x1.35" black at Bikester.co.uk ✓ Biking specialists in the UK ✓ Buy online with free returns ✓ Easy shipping ✓ Great prices with the best service ✓ Find what you need with Bikester.co.uk ✓
www.bikester.co.uk www.bikester.co.uk
 
So am I right in thinking the only number I have to get right is the 27.5 then any other number between 1.95 and 1.35.
Crap at this sort of stuff even with cars and MH I just take it to tyre shop and ask for some to fit then pay.
 
Yes. your wheel is 27.5 inches in size so the tyre must be that size. Then the other numbers are the tyres width, which you can vary.

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All is explained in the link I posted above.....

It's all very confusing because a 700, 27.5 and even a 29er all have the same bead seat diameter of 622mm. The difference is in the depth of the tyre.
You can measure the rim width and then there is a chart that tells you how narrow you can go on the tyre....again see the link in my previous post.
 
Ken and Carol said:
Until recently I would have agreed with two about pumping up tyres as hard as possible.
However, new research/thinking now dictates this not to be case in order to get the fastest ride. So much so that I have reduced both of my tyres by 30 psi, going from 110 to 80 in each.
A quick look on youtube about best tyre pressures will give you lots to look at. The GCN videos are probably the best. I was very skeptical but am now converted.
Click to expand...
I also saw the "new" advice on lower tyre pressures. I have dropped the gravel bike from 50 to 40 to see if I can tell any difference whilst on tarmac.
If it proves to be any better I will drop the pressure in the road bike tyres from 110.
I think the road bike will be more difficult to judge as it's a carbon race bike and as such is a very harsh ride to start with.
Back to the OP Innkeeper . The general rule is there are three styles of tread used on bikes;
Big chunky tread, used to gain traction on soft, rocky, uneaven surface
Treaded or hybrid tyres, good for canal towpath, dry grass, (foot)paths, wet roads
Slick or roadtyres, good for speed, dry tarmac but nothing else.
As you'd expect there are many variations and marketing hype to choose from.
Lighter tyres are faster but more likely to puncture.
As was said above, the best way to be faster on the bike is to ride more and loose weight.
BUT. Most of all just enjoy it.
Phil
 
Ridgeway said:
Regarding tyre width the logic is usually that the tyre once fitted should not be narrower than the wheel rim itself, though the hard part is what width should you buy in the first place to achieve that.....

The 1.95's you have on show that there's some typical tyre spread on there so a thinner tyre is possible. I wouldn't go narrower than 1.35 though (that's 34mm so 15mm less than your current tyre) And at that spec 27.5 x 1.35 you can find some very fast Schwalbe Kojacks !!! They are great, fast touring tyres and are kevlar belted so offer good puncture protection. I run them on my Brompton (diddy little 16" wheels) and they cope remarkably well with all i throw at it and they are very fast.

www.bikester.co.uk

SCHWALBE Kojak Performance Clincher Tyre RaceGuard Speedgrip 27.5x1.35" black | Bikester.co.uk

The SCHWALBE Kojak Performance Clincher Tyre RaceGuard Speedgrip 27.5x1.35" black at Bikester.co.uk ✓ Biking specialists in the UK ✓ Buy online with free returns ✓ Easy shipping ✓ Great prices with the best service ✓ Find what you need with Bikester.co.uk ✓
www.bikester.co.uk www.bikester.co.uk
Click to expand...
Ordered a pair of the above and inner tubes. Found the tyres for only £14.99 bargain. Now just wait for them to come.
 
great price there, well done on that !

you'll whizz along on those and i'm sure you see a difference on the first outing.
 
Here the link if it's any good to any one.

SJS Cycles Bicycle Parts and Accessories Store

The most comprehensive range of quality cycle components, spares and accessories in the world with express and global delivery available.
www.sjscycles.co.uk www.sjscycles.co.uk

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New tyres are here. Got the front one on but rain has stopped playing putting back one on. Will say looking at them. They do look skinny and no tread??‍♂️
Will get back one on in time for tomorrow's ride
20200430_132725.jpg
 
A tyre on a bicycle always has contact with tarmac.
If you have a tread you'll have less rubber touching the ground than a slick.

What you know about aquaplaning is from cars with much wider tyres.
A bicycle can't aquaplane.

Mud & oil are a game changer tho :o

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