Truma Combi 6e

Joined
Dec 29, 2012
Posts
506
Likes collected
30,702
Location
Cheltenham
Funster No
24,093
MH
Rapido 7066df
Exp
Since 2014
I’ve never been happy with the Truma Combi 6 fitted to my 2010 Rapido 7066df. It had 240v elements replace twice under warranty when purchased 5 years ago, but has never given out much heat and very little fan power even on gas, so I suspect that the PCB is faulty. Now one of the 240 elements has failed again and I am considering replacing the whole unit with a Chinese copy supplied by ThermoTechnica £950+vat.
Has anyone any experience of this unit? I know some have purchased replacement elements from them.
Thanks in anticipation.
 
I’ve got a 2010 Rapido. My 240V has always been a bit tepid/slow, so the solution has been a £20 fan heater from Argos! The gas however is like a blast furnace, have you checked/replaced your thermostat? If that’s dead it will just idle along doing next to nothing. Alternatively it might just be easier to get Truma to look at it?

Regards
Jim
 
How are you using it? I was told to always start it on gas and electric when its cold then when it gets up to temperature either leave it or switch to electric only and it will maintain it - we do this all the time. Starting on electric only is as good a using a panting dog.
 
I find my 6E will blow very hard on gas but only if there is a big difference between the actual temperature and the set temperature. If there is only a couple of degrees difference it has a steady medium blow even when on high fan. The electric elements only output 1.8KW compared to the 6KW of the gas burner so don’t expect much from the electric only setting.

I have never heard of a Thermo Technica unit. What heat output does it claim and does it carry the full safety certification of the Truma? Can you provide a link to it?

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I think you are just unlucky I think it's worth getting it fixed properly.

Last 2 vans have had the C6 (previous one the C6002). All been excellant heaters, current van is a 7.5m A Class once up to temp can't even hear the fan running and maintains the temp perfectly.
All ours have been gas only as Landy Andy says, I can never see the point in paying over 400 quid for the naff electric option.
 
Thought I'd replace the thrmostat for the Truma Combie 6E, so contacted Caratech who supplied the new PCB for it (version V05.02) and they replied they don't have any info on that model Truma boiler/heater ???

So, my question is, is the thermostat (the small black button) generic to all the Truma Combie boilers or do I need a specific model number to order one ?
 
I find my 6E will blow very hard on gas but only if there is a big difference between the actual temperature and the set temperature. If there is only a couple of degrees difference it has a steady medium blow even when on high fan. The electric elements only output 1.8KW compared to the 6KW of the gas burner so don’t expect much from the electric only setting.

I have never heard of a Thermo Technica unit. What heat output does it claim and does it carry the full safety certification of the Truma? Can you provide a link to it?

What do you think.?

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Thanks for the replies.
I’m aware that the electric setting alone will not heat the van and the need to use gas to get up to temperature. However, on gas there is no real heat either, just a trickle. Thermostat has been replaced. And now one of the elements has failed, we use electric to heat the water if we have hook up, works well and no extra cost if electric is included in pitch fees. I’m thinking that getting it repaired will cost nearly as much as the unit in my original post, without the remove and refit cost. It’s also important for me to be certain it’s fixed on the first attempt as it’s such a big job to remove and refit the unit, if I do it myself or a repairer does it.
I also have a fan heater and an oil filled radiator if required but as there is provision for heat and hot water I would like it to work.
At the moment I have not made my mind up which way to go.
 
I’ve just found this:
Thinking it’s same manufacturer as the Combi gas/electric unit.
 
Thought I'd replace the thrmostat for the Truma Combie 6E, so contacted Caratech who supplied the new PCB for it (version V05.02) and they replied they don't have any info on that model Truma boiler/heater ???

So, my question is, is the thermostat (the small black button) generic to all the Truma Combie boilers or do I need a specific model number to order one ?
I think they are all the same it's only a Thermister in a fancy bit of plastic.
 
Think the reason for repeated element failure is caused by loose finning around the heater element.

Have replaced the elements twice on our previous MH a swift Kon-Tiki, bit of a job to strip out half the wardrobe and step access to the over garage bed.

BUT

First time did as advised and only took enough of the unit apart to pull out and slide in new elements.

The second time the eyewatering priced official kit included every gasket/seal, nut/bolt in the heater. So took it all to bits.

Found that the support between outer water jacket and inner gas heater core was less than supportive to the finned Aluminium heat conductors for the electric elements. So much so that the element was (was going to use a uformisim but thought better of it) very slack, hence allowing the electric element to over heat in the loose areas and hence fail early life.

When replacing the elements used a pair of pipe grips to squeezes the Ally fins around the element for close contact.

As others have said gas + electric heating from cold. as set point for heating system approached then the gas shuts down and it hopes to maintain temp on electric.

Temp sensor positioning can be an issue and due to distance from heater to cab area we used an oil rad to supplement that area. Other benefit of the oil rad is it's virtually silent and keeps the front warm whilst you shutdown the whiney fan.

Each to our own what suit some may not others.

Edit just remembered was giving some thought to replacing the thermostat and or other stuff with say a Raspberry Pi type controller so that it gave the Truma unit large set point error to get things motivated. Don't know just thoughts ATM as the new Van hasn't the same issues,, quite.
 
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What do you think.?
Not sure. I couldn’t find a lot of information on the link about performance and certification and I tend to be a bit cautious about anything involving gas. The price is tempting.

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Mine does not always kick into the higher fan speeds and just trickles out a small amount of heat If I close some of the vents to allow more heat to build up in unit then the higher fan speeds and high burner come to play, and can then reopen the vents, it been like it for the last 5 years, and been an intermittent fault i have lived with.
 
Temp sensor positioning can be an issue and due to distance from heater to cab area we used an oil rad to supplement that area. Other benefit of the oil rad is it's virtually silent and keeps the front warm whilst you shutdown the whiney fan.
It really does depend on how well the converter installs the unit. Our heater is fairly central and we have 4 vents in the cab and vents all along the dash between the blind & screen, don't even bother with external screens.

Position of the sensor shouldn't make that much odds as you can adjust the offset, unless it's in a silly place.
 
It really does depend on how well the converter installs the unit. Our heater is fairly central and we have 4 vents in the cab and vents all along the dash between the blind & screen, don't even bother with external screens.

Position of the sensor shouldn't make that much odds as you can adjust the offset, unless it's in a silly place.
The sensor in our case is now 6" below roof line over the hab door. Offset appears to work opposite to expected and temp control at desired HOTPOINT is worse if offset is added. So much so think its reversed.

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The sensor in our case is now 6" below roof line over the hab door. Offset appears to work opposite to expected and temp control at desired HOTPOINT is worse if offset is added. So much so think its reversed.
That's where ours is, I think I have an offset of minus one, works well in our van.
 
Those Chinese ones look like direct copies of the Truma down to every last detail.
I think you are correct, the supplier confirmed it was a direct replacement. With the mountings and services in the exact same position as the Truma. This works for me as there isn’t much wriggle room where the Truma is fitted.
 
That's where ours is, I think I have an offset of minus one, works well in our van.
Tried large offset seemed to make the general temp control worse so now operate with 0 offset and turn the setpoint up a few degrees if cool and back when a bit warm. Hence giving thoughts to a PI controller that will do that automatically.

As in set point not achieved, give it 5, setpoint still not achieved, fire up the gas (by the Pi depressing the measured value or Elevating set point)

Seems far to much Hysteresis in the truma Temperature controller/Heater unit. Even tempted to rip the lot out if it ever fails and stick in Raspbery PI or an Allen Bradley brick to do the job..
 
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I’ve bitten the bullet and ordered the Truma looky likey, should be here next week. I guess only time will tell if it’s ok but the reviews I’ve seen all seem positive.
This is based on the fact that the repair costs could easily be more than I’ve paid for the unit and I can fit that myself.
 
Update, Chinese Truma copy fitted over the last two days. Quite a bit of cabinet dismantling required, new temperature sensor and controller wired and fitted.
This has proved that the old unit has never worked properly when heating the van, so good results all round.
When you put the two units side by side it’s impossible to tell them apart, except for the stickers. Let’s hope the electric heating elements last longer than the Truma ones, time will tell.

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I have been having trouble with my Truma 4E. It has failed on me several times. I had it in for check/repair in Feb19 just before covid & they couldn't find anything wrong & it cost £300 then. Its playing up again & I suspect the temp sensor but now also one of the elements. I just called the repair agent to get an idea of cost & they advised,"if just the elements it would cost in region of £700 including labour. If its the temp sensor then about £60 plus labour (no labour if stripping down anyway)". However he said it could be the circuit board which will be about £300. I asked about a new boiler & he said "It would be cost of boiler plus labour to replace probably £2-300 for the labour... (which works out around £1700). plus, as I have the old dial controls (it is 10yrs old) then the additional cost of running the new cables to controller. " I thought WoW!!!. so I have also been considering getting one of these chinese boilers which are now £1200 & fit it myself. So very interested to hear how well its going for those that have fitted one..
I must say I have been very disappointed in the Truma original. when they took it in for repair they found a crushed wire inside the unit... but it was past its guarantee period then.
 
Ian My unit has been fitted for just over three months and has been working fine. Really only been using hot water so far but we’ve used it a lot. On testing the heating, it was vast improvement on the Truma.

As I said above the amount of dismantling required to remove the Truma was such that getting it repaired needed a guarantee it was fixed first time and that could not be done.

Fitted the Chinese copy with new thermostat and digital control panel and have to say the digital panel is so much easier to use than the old dials.

Definitely a straight swap no problems fitting, once access gained
 
That's brilliant news. Thanks for responding so quickly. I agree that repairing the old one is going to be more expensive than buying a new one... And there's no guarantee that the find the fault. We are away next week so I will order one towards the end of the break.
Cheers & thanks again.
 
Ian, I’m pretty sure the 6E version is identical in size and services position, if you want to up grade. As it’s the same price.
 
Greenway. Thanks, I did notice that but I wasn't sure if that may be too much on the occasions I am connected to electric. Doing some calculations relying. On memory many years ago... P=IV, therefore I=p/v. The elements seem to be p=900w & v=240v which is 3.75amps per element, so 3 of them works out just over 11amps on top of anything else being used. However, I suppose that if i do that I don't have to use all of them at once but will have a spare element should it be needed.. so that ain't a bad thing. So thanks maybe I'll do that. 👍 Thanks for your help & good thinking.

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