Starter Motor Not Turning when Engine Hot (1 Viewer)

[RVCH]

Hey, Team.

Us again! To add to the minor other gremlins we're dealing with, the starter sometimes doesn't turn over - it just clicks.

The problem was there when we bought it, but the previous owner replaced the starter with a new one. It wasn't until we'd left London that it happened again.

When the issue happens, giving it a hard push while in gear allows it to start.

So far has only happened after long stretches of driving, and never while cold.

Battery seems to be fine, as it starts just fine after a nudge.

It's a 1993 Ducato/Talento with a 1.9L naturally aspirated diesel.

Fortunately we've always been able to either bump start it, or nudge it enough that the starter works.

Any thoughts? Another new starter motor? Solenoid? Something else more sinister?

Cheers,
Ross

 

[icantremember]

Sounds to me like a poor electrical connection (ie loose or corroded) also check battery voltage (a new battery may sort it)

 

[Larby]

Sounds to me like a poor electrical connection (ie loose or corroded) also check battery voltage (a new battery may sort it)

Especially earth straps. Use a jump lead from negative on battery direct to good metal area on engine.
That should ensure a good earth to starter motor

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[Derbyshire wanderer]

As above it will be a bad cable connection due to expansion when warm.
Strip clean and refit and all should be good again.

 

[Lenny HB]

Due to only happening when hot leads you to think it is electrical but the fact it works after rocking the van in gear would suggest worn or a broken tooth on the flywheel. May just be coincidence it happens when hot.

 

[Louis]

Due to only happening when hot leads you to think it is electrical but the fact it works after rocking the van in gear would suggest worn or a broken tooth on the flywheel. May just be coincidence it happens when hot.

And also the bendix could be sticking

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[gus-lopez]

On this model their are 2 faults that give the same symptoms.
Normally it's always the 6mm push on connection to the starter solenoid. Clean up the male connector on the solenoid & chop off the female in end of cable & fit new. To test if it is this when you attempt to start & it clicks have someone ready to waggle the connection to the solenoid. Assuming the undertray isn't fitted , otherwise you will have to lean down & waggle it through the bonnet.
It isn't worth trying to make the old connector clamp tighter as it normally only works for a short while.
The second fault that produces same symptoms is a worn out ignition switch. You only find out it is the cable end after you've replaced the switch. So if you do need a good switch ...........

It only ever does it when the vehicle is warm.

 

[RVCH]

Gus, thanks again. I'll check that out next time it happens - which will probably be around lunch time.

I didn't think it was the battery, as it is new and works just fine after nudging it in gear. The main power connections were all solid, but didn't inspect the push on too closely. Hopefully that's all it is!

Cheers,
Ross

 

[Spanner]

If just giving the vehicle a push makes a difference it's because the starter motor bendix gear is already meshed with the flywheel ring gear, pushing the vehicle is rotating the armature to a pair of good segments on the armature, you either have a dead segment on the armature or a faulty solenoid, best to fit a good quality exchange starter.

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[RVCH]

If just giving the vehicle a push makes a difference it's because the starter motor bendix gear is already meshed with the flywheel ring gear, pushing the vehicle is rotating the armature to a pair of good segments on the armature, you either have a dead segment on the armature or a faulty solenoid, best to fit a good quality exchange starter.

Thanks for the technical explanation. What you said makes a lot of sense, and It's kind of what I thought might have been wrong - just didn't understand the hot restart problem, though I'm willing to accept it as a coincidence.

No problems restarting today, so didn't get to try playing with the small relay connection. I'll definitely investigate it from this angle first, as it's much simpler/cheaper!

 

[RVCH]

So, the other week, it came to the point where I just couldn't get it to start, playing with the solenoid cable, bumping the car while in gear etc etc.

Measured the voltage on the starter - 12.8v.

When the solenoid cable is removed, you no longer hear the 'click' of it attempting to turn.

Measured the voltage on the solenoid cable - 10.2v.

Fortuitously, this happened outside an China Supermarket in Spain, which sells anything you can think of - including 6mm connectors. Spent the €0.60 for a pack of 10, swapped the connector, and it has been starting first time ever since.

It's a long response, but thanks for the help, all. It seems that we've managed to eliminate one mechanical annoyance/problem!

 

[jockaneezer]

Sometimes when you use a digital multimeter, it'll register 12 volts but there will only be minimal current there, sometimes not enough to operate the light/fan/starter it supplies, usually down to corroded connectors as may have been the case for you. Glad you're up and running now though.

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