Sikaflex 512 for bonding oyster dish?

[MisterB]

HI, i have previously used sikaflex 512 for bonding a satellite dish mounting plate to the roof of a previous motorhome, it was absolutely fine, no issues. I just wondered if a better product has been developed that i should consider using instead. I know the world of adhesives/sealants is getting better as time goes on and i want to use the best product currently available, I was more than happy with sikaflex 512 and i am happy to use it again if there is no better product.

thanks

 

[bigtree]

This is what I use now, cheaper than 512 and made by Sika

 

[Lenny HB]

I use Sika 292i it is a marine grade adhesive with far stronger grip levels, twice that of 291i which it'self is far stronger than 512.

 

[Steve N Tracy]

I have used 252 as it was the strongest according to the Sika info sheets, on 3 motorhomes to secure a dish non have come off.

 

[Gellyneck]

I ended up using 252 after a phone call to Sika to put our sat dish baseplate on.
Having said that I did seriously think about Puraflex 40 as it's much cheaper and available at Toolststion.

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[MisterB]

thanks everyone, do you use a full bed 2mm thick or dot and dab ? i would go for full bed but again, am willing to listen to how others have successfully applied it for their base plates

 

[Lenny HB]

I did a bead around the edge then filled in with zig zag stripes I used a full tube on my Snipe base.

 

[Carolyn and Kev]

Sika flex 512 on all four feet in dabs . Push down and the run a bead around the feet as above on my old autotrail

Kev

 

[Lenny HB]

View attachment 375922

Sika flex 521 on all four feet in dabs . Push down and the run a bead around the feet as above on my old autotrail

Kev

I've not seen a Snipe mounting like that before. Mine is 3mm solid anodised alloy plate same shape as the Snipe base with rivnuts that the Snipe bolts to.

 

[Carolyn and Kev]

I've not seen a Snipe mounting like that before. Mine is 3mm solid anodised alloy plate same shape as the Snipe base with rivnuts that the Snipe bolts to.

When I went to buy the base plate ...I nearly fell over in the shop with the price! Decided to try using the old noggin! I think it worked rather well dont you think?

Kev

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[Carolyn and Kev]

Check out my answer on the Snipe mounting a little while back. My picture above shows what I did and how it worked for me.

Kev

 

[Lenny HB]

When I went to buy the base plate ...I nearly fell over in the shop with the price! Decided to try using the old noggin! I think it worked rather well dont you think?

Kev

If you buy in the UK they stitch you up for £90 for the mounting plate, buy from Germany and it's included.

 

[Carolyn and Kev]

I actually bought a ex show one from Salop Leisure Shrewsbury. Still it did not come with the base! However...I managed to get around it

Kev

 

[Gellyneck]

I did a bead around the edge then filled in with zig zag stripes I used a full tube on my Snipe base.

I did the same as previous with our Snipe (only because Lenny HB said so!) however in discussion with Sika they advised it would be beneficial if I placed some flexible "packers" into the adhesive to support the weight (albeit not a lot!) and maintain the depth of adhesive when puishing the baseplate down so I cut up a bit of old rubber gas hose to c4mm lengths and placed these in on edge. I used about a tube and a half of adhesive.
If you want a neat edge on the adhesive place the dish base in location and draw around it with a pencil. Remove the base and stick some masking tape a few mm outside this line. apply the adhesive up to the pencil line. Fit the base into the adhesive, smooth around the perimeter (some adhesive should have squeezed out over the tape) and remove the tape. You should have a good clean edge.

 

[MisterB]

I did the same as previous with our Snipe (only because Lenny HB said so!) however in discussion with Sika they advised it would be beneficial if I placed some flexible "packers" into the adhesive to support the weight (albeit not a lot!) and maintain the depth of adhesive when puishing the baseplate down so I cut up a bit of old rubber gas hose to c4mm lengths and placed these in on edge. I used about a tube and a half of adhesive.
If you want a neat edge on the adhesive place the dish base in location and draw around it with a pencil. Remove the base and stick some masking tape a few mm outside this line. apply the adhesive up to the pencil line. Fit the base into the adhesive, smooth around the perimeter (some adhesive should have squeezed out over the tape) and remove the tape. You should have a good clean edge.

thanks, great advice ! i intended using 3mm tile spacers to achieve the same effect. did they specifically say 4mm 'packing' to achieve a 4mm bed of adhesive or did they just suggest a 'packing' ??

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[Gellyneck]

thanks, great advice ! i intended using 3mm tile spacers to achieve the same effect. did they specifically say 4mm 'packing' to achieve a 4mm bed of adhesive or did they just suggest a 'packing' ??

From memory, the main point they made was "flexible". They also advised you'd need various bits and pieces but I ended up thinking a bit of a sales pitch (but rightly so they promote their own products). Whilst not directly relevant to securing a satellite dish they did point me towards this website https://sikaflexit.wordpress.com/20...ll-a-solar-panel-to-the-roof-of-your-caravan/ which deals with securing a solar panel but detailed the parts they were talking about.
Obviously, asked the experts on here for thoughts \ inputs. General consensus was primer and activator not really required if roof \ base properly prepared (roughed up \ cleaned - I used isopropyl alcohol). I also substituted the cut gas hose "washers" for the spacer tape.
Hope it helps.

 

[MisterB]

I've had a response from sikka to use 552 if purely relying on adhesive with no mechanical fixings

 

[WESTY66]

Sorry to Hijack your thread MisterB but can I ask a few of you how you would apply sika 292i to an awning rail to put on side of van, I.e edges, zig zag, or a bed down middle and splodge it out? I know some use adhesive and screws but I thought I’d get the strongest adhesive and try and do without the screws? Thanks Ady

 

[Carolyn and Kev]

Sorry to Hijack your thread MisterB but can I ask a few of you how you would apply sika 292i to an awning rail to put on side of van, I.e edges, zig zag, or a bed down middle and splodge it out? I know some use adhesive and screws but I thought I’d get the strongest adhesive and try and do without the screws? Thanks Ady

Ady ...We were advised to do both because the weight of the material . Plus....It holds the rail better whilst the glue is going off! Zig Zag for the glue!

Kev

 

[WESTY66]

Ady ...We were advised to do both because the weight of the material . Plus....It holds the rail better whilst the glue is going off! Zig Zag for the glue!

Kev

I’m just reluctant to drill the side of the van if I can get away with it I will, but I know the awning is heavy and we was planning on putting the rear support poles in as soon as I’d run it through the rail. It’ll have plenty of time to go “off” before I use it

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[ShaKen]

I’m always surprised by some who say “use this stuff, it’s cheaper....”

I’m of the view that if I’m spending hundreds or thousands on an expensive bit of technology, then I should be willing to pay £20/£30 or so more to get the strongest/best possible adhesive/fittings or whatever to make sure my assets absolutely stays where it is fitted.

I’m about to fit a large solar panel and after a fair amount of research I’m going to use Sika 292i on a 4mm bed, with the adhesive applied in a 8mm triangular profile (all as per the Sika factsheet). I’m also using the Primer and Activator from Sika, again as recommended to ensure the optimal bond.

 

[Ian Bosman]

View attachment 375922

Sika flex 512 on all four feet in dabs . Push down and the run a bead around the feet as above on my old autotrail

Kev

Ooh, that is a lovely clean roof, eat your dinner off it!

 

[ShaKen]

View attachment 375922

Sika flex 512 on all four feet in dabs . Push down and the run a bead around the feet as above on my old autotrail

Kev

I do like the way the Solar panel is fitted. Did you just make up some brackets yourself from Aluminium angle? Arguably better than plastic corner mounted feet. I may give that a try!

 

[Carolyn and Kev]

I do like the way the Solar panel is fitted. Did you just make up some brackets yourself from Aluminium angle? Arguably better than plastic corner mounted feet. I may give that a try!

Yes and yes! Spent a little time trying stuff out. Came to the solution that was best for me. Hopefully you can see it too?

 

[ShaKen]

Yes and yes! Spent a little time trying stuff out. Came to the solution that was best for me. Hopefully you can see it too?

And did you just use adhesive or did you screw them down as well?

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[Carolyn and Kev]

And did you just use adhesive or did you screw them down as well?

Hi there.

Just used the Sika flex as you can see on the photo. I did not use the base plate idea purely because it was too expensive to purchase a base plate ! I made up the feet from using B&Q's desk or storage legs at £8 for the four! Removed the stainless brackets off the legs and kept those for a rainy day job. Then using 4x8mm bolts ...I put them through the brackets from underneath and used Nylon threaded nuts to secure them onto the Snipe. Then just Glued the system on with the sika flex. No drilling or hole cutting required.
By doing what I have stated , it raised the snipe unit by 10 mm allowing for rain water to run off and under it.
Never had any issues with it at all. Biggest problem was actually getting it off the roof when we sold the motorhome and wanted it on the newer one!
Cheese wire did the job though

Kev