Re-Rivet Garage Door ?

[zac]

So for the 2nd time since new the rivet on my garage door has come off, the 1st time it was under warranty but now its not. I have phoned around to see who can fit me in but the closest i can get in is next year lol so that's not going to happen as we are going away mid December. I did find someone who might be able to look at it in 3 weeks time but i was hoping i can sort this myself or maybe a funster who could assist. I have Rivets although nothing that big and a couple of manual rivet guns but having never riveted anything before i could do with some pointers on how to fix this

Pic of the door plate attached, it's the one on the top part of the door holding the bit to stop it swinging widely open .

Thanks in advance

If anyone is near Basingstoke and can assist please let me know.

 

[Two on Tour]

If the present rivets are aluminum, then I would replace them with like for like size in stainless steel which will be a stronger rivet.

You will find the rivets you want on eBay.

 

[zac]

If the present rivets are aluminum, then I would replace them with like for like size in stainless steel which will be a stronger rivet.

You will find the rivets you want on eBay.

Thanks appreciate the reply.

 

[Diabalo]

Using dissimilar metals may cause a reaction and depending what they go into they may be what is known as peel rivets

 

[zac]

Since they were redone its been approx 2 years so they last a little bit but i would of thought they should last longer than that.

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[Two on Tour]

Using dissimilar metals may cause a reaction.

The bracket looks like stainless steel to me.

 

[zac]

The bracket looks like stainless steel to me.

The broken Rivet is quite light so i would say its Aluminium although i am no expert.

 

[BouncyBoatFolk]

The plate looks ally to me, as is the rivet. Initially, you'll need to drill out the remnants of the broken rivet left in there. Not knowing if the back is accessible I would guess that if the broken encapsulated bit of rivet just spins when attacked with a drill may mean that the other rivet will have to be drilled out as well, so as the broken one can be removed, IMO !!!Others opinions ? It may not be a bad thing as you can then catch sight of what you're riveting into. I hope that helps.
Mike.

 

[zac]

The plate looks ally to me, as is the rivet. Initially, you'll need to drill out the remnants of the broken rivet left in there. Not knowing if the back is accessible I would guess that if the broken encapsulated bit of rivet just spins when attacked with a drill may mean that the other rivet will have to be drilled out as well, so as the broken one can be removed, IMO !!!Others opinions ? It may not be a bad thing as you can then catch sight of what you're riveting into. I hope that helps.
Mike.

The back is not accessible from what i can see as it goes into the door frame, anyone know the size of rivet to purchase as they come in a lot of different lengths?

 

[mushy]

If you are anywhere close to a marina, pop in and have a word with someone in the workshop. They will have a variety of rivets and its a 5 minute job.

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[zac]

If you are anywhere close to a marina, pop in and have a word with someone in the workshop. They will have a variety of rivets and its a 5 minute job.

We are not far from the coast so that wouldn't be a problem but I wouldn't want to just turn up somewhere as it seems most places are now booked out in advance for months and months at a time. I think if it were someone that knows what they are doing then it would be quite simple but i guess thats the same for all things. DIY is not my strong point but there are certain things i will try once i know what it is i am doing.

 

[Gellyneck]

As an option you may want to think about using a stainless steel screw with a diameter that will screw into the remaining rivet sleeve and an appropriate sized stainless washer? Alternatively if you're concerned about corrosion, how about a slimmer aluminium solid rivet (and washer) glued into the remaining sleeve?

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[robnchris]

I'm thinking that the piece of rivet left on the door will push out unfortunately only to the inside, it will have the expanded bulge at the end of the rivet.
A Stainless Steel or Monel rivet will not cause a problem both of which you will be able to buy from a Chandlers, a pop rivet gun with different size heads for the rivets won't cost too much.
It's a really easy job to perform, try pushing the broken rivet through with a suitable tool before offering the new rivet in place.

 

[Gellyneck]

I'm thinking that the piece of rivet left on the door will push out unfortunately only to the inside,.....

I had difficulty getting the broken end of a pop rivet on our locker door pushed through on our AT so used the option I raised above and it's holding well.

 

[BouncyBoatFolk]

A bit of a bodge I know,but perhaps using the broken remaining half as a captive ferule, and pop rivet a stainless rivet inside of that section.
Does the remaining bit spin in situ? If not, then yes a screw and washer would certainly get you out of trouble in the short term.
Personally, I'd source some more rivets and put some new and extra ones in along side the broken one. That size rivet head would more or less cover the broken one, and an extra couple of fixings won't go amiss.
Does the friction stay want some pressure adjusting off it? That should not keep happening.

Mike.

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[zac]

A bit of a bodge I know,but perhaps using the broken remaining half as a captive ferule, and pop rivet a stainless rivet inside of that section.
Does the remaining bit spin in situ? If not, then yes a screw and washer would certainly get you out of trouble in the short term.
Personally, I'd source some more rivets and put some new and extra ones in along side the broken one. That size rivet head would more or less cover the broken one, and an extra couple of fixings won't go amiss.
Does the friction stay want some pressure adjusting off it? That should not keep happening.

Mike.

I dont think the broken part moves but it started raining so had to close it all up, I would prefer that what ever the fix is that it lasts as i am sure this should not keep happening every couple of years.

Does anyone know what length they should be as they come in a variety of lengths and i dont want to buy any that are too long if I am going to see if it will push through.

 

[Gellyneck]

I dont think the broken part moves but it started raining so had to close it all up, I would prefer that what ever the fix is that it lasts as i am sure this should not keep happening every couple of years.

Does anyone know what length they should be as they come in a variety of lengths and i dont want to buy any that are too long if I am going to see if it will push through.

Wonder if pushing a piece of fine stiff wire (fuse wire?) with a tiny 90 degree bend on the end of it through the centre of the remaining piece and easing it back until it catches could give you a close enough measurement if nobody knows the actual length.

 

[Gromett]

If it were my van I would use a rivnut. The only issue is it would sit about 1mm or so proud, so I would bed in with sika. This would also make it more secure.

With a rivnut it wouldn't fall to pieces again.

Please note this is just my opinion based on what I can see in the picture.

 

[zac]

If it were my van I would use a rivnut. The only issue is it would sit about 1mm or so proud, so I would bed in with sika. This would also make it more secure.

With a rivnut it wouldn't fall to pieces again.

Please note this is just my opinion based on what I can see in the picture.

It can't sit proud as it will catch the bracket as the door closes, stupid design these door's

 

[BouncyBoatFolk]

Presumably, youhave the thickness of the door to lose a fixing in? Single inner skin + insulation + outer finish skin?
If so any reasonably deep rivet 10mm deep x 5/6mm thick for example would fix the two surfaces together, without bothering the outer finish skin, yes ?
Mike

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[JerryL770]

If it were my van I would use a rivnut. The only issue is it would sit about 1mm or so proud, so I would bed in with sika. This would also make it more secure.

With a rivnut it wouldn't fall to pieces again.

At last, a sensible but hard to execute answer. I'm sorry to say that a lot of the above "solutions" fall into my definition of bodgery.

First, the remaining rivet is unlikely to be drillable. Remove it with a punch and punch it through. If the replacement pop rivet is over 1/8" (3.2mm) diameter, it will be very difficult to set it with a normal hand rivetter. You would need a more expensive "scissor" action one which gives a mechanical advantage.

For the Rivnut solution, it would be best to drill out the remaining pop rivet and fit 2 rivenuts. You may need to enlarge the holes to suit. These are easily available on t'net but you will have to buy a set of 1 size rivnut with a setting tool (which can do more sizes). Then you fix the bracket back on with steel screws of your choice which you can get at most tool factors (4mm up usually) else Modelfixings.co.uk has all you are likely to need. Use some lock washers. Youtube will have plenty of videos on how to fit rivnuts.

I hope that helps. Jerry

 

[jockaneezer]

Firstly, you need to measure the diameter of the hole the rivet fits into, then using a suitable sized punch or even a nail, knock the remaining portion into the door frame, then using the same punch, see how deep the cavity is, this will decide the maximum length of rivet you can use. By the looks of it, I'd be guessing it's a 4.8mm rivet, which is about the limit for putting in with a "normal" hand riveter, anything bigger usually needs a pneumatic gun or some "lazy tongs". You won't be able to buy rivets in quantities less than about 250 at a time (approximately £13)
You have to question why it's breaking though, is maybe that gas ram too strong ?
I've got some 4.8 mm rivets by 12mm long that you can have for free.

 

[JerryL770]

It can't sit proud as it will catch the bracket as the door closes, stupid design these door's

Ah, sorry, your response came in whilst I was typing. You could still use the rivnut solution.

You would have to enlarge the holes in the bracket to fit over the rivnut. The rivnut left outside is quite thin. Then use a button head screw to fix it, applying some threadlock compound to stop it coming out easily. Modelfixings do stainless steel screws.

 

[zac]

Added another picture that i took when it went last time to show where the actual bracket is on the door frame. Not sure it helps but it gives a better idea of where it is.

 

[Gromett]

It can't sit proud as it will catch the bracket as the door closes, stupid design these door's

Jerry has the correct answer. I didn't suggest this as it means drilling the original bracket which you may not have been confident to do.

You would have to enlarge the holes in the bracket to fit over the rivnut. The rivnut left outside is quite thin. Then use a button head screw to fix it, applying some threadlock compound to stop it coming out easily. Modelfixings do stainless steel screws.

However, if clearance is an issue, then the bolt heads may have clearance issues? As I said, hard to tell from the picture.

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[Gromett]

It can't sit proud as it will catch the bracket as the door closes, stupid design these door's

It would be 1mm, I have never seen a van built with this fine a tolerance

 

[BouncyBoatFolk]

So fixing depth isn't an issue. Add another couple of of rivets to stabilise the bracket. If the existing broken bit won't hold to be drilled, punch it back into the insulation, then add another rivet into where it came from, That gives a total of 4 rivets holding the plate.
Mike.

 

[Landy Andy]

The problem with fitting a rivenut is the required hole is much bigger, which may weaken what it is mounted in and requires the proper tools.

I would fit new rivet then drill third hole and install extra rivet to what you’ve got, and possibly then drill out and replace the one that is currently remaining.

Sometimes you need a weak link, so that other, more import things don’t get damaged, and that needs to be considered.

What is the thickness and with of the material you are mounting into?

 

[JerryL770]

The bracket is definitely stainless steel, you can tell by the discolouration in three edges, aluminium does not do that. It is probably 1.6 - 2mm thick else it would be too flimsy. To drill SS you need to centre punch the hole position first and use a NEW drill bit preferably if you are not used to drilling SS. You need to press on firmly because if the bit does not cut through it hardens the surface. A blunt drill is no use at all.

This is all about what the OP could do personally or with a little help.

Jockaneezer has the right idea and I would take him up with the offer of some rivets if I were you. Then I suggest you check the size of the hole is similar to the size of your new rivets from Jock. If so, before you punch the sheared rivet out, drill another hole central as suggested. Then take your MH to almost any car bodyshop and ask the manager if someone can please fit your rivets. They will do it in 2 ticks and you can leave a nice box of choccies as thanks.

 

[robnchris]

I am going to have to disagree with a couple of the suggestions here, firstly you can easily use a hand rivet gun to set a rivet over 1/8" Dia, I have climbed up the mast on our yacht doing just that using Monel Rivets.

As I said in my first post you won't be able to drill out the old rivet it will just spin in the hole making it worst, answer is simple push the old rivet out, unfortunately that will now be free to rattle inside the door, I would use a stainless steel rivet which you can buy from a chandlers in packs of 10 no need to bulk purchase boxes of 250 at all.
You don't have to be exact on the length of the rivet looking at the picture I would think a 3/8" long rivet would be fine, if you can only get 1/2" then no worries you will just have to pull up on the riveter a little more.
There is certainly enough room to drill another hole and add an extra rivet.

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