Our July bimble around Champagne, Burgundy and Alsace …

[Grianan]

Hmm … these reviews of the aire at Beaune from last night are giving me cause to reconsider …

night are interesting …

 

[BikerGraham]

sounds like a 1 nighter then

Beaune has a good municipal campsite we did a few night there last September easy walk into the centre of town. Beautiful place.

 

[maison]

Beautiful journey down to the Morvan National Park. The vast arable plains gave way to the rolling tree-covered hills of Bourgogne. The houses too are more traditional - half timbered first then golden stone with heavy slate roofs and large over-hanging porches. Built for the weather in a time before central heating and double glazing.
Our Sat Nav predicts journey times just fine in Scotland but fails miserably in France with journeys taking much longer than stated. And it’s not just us ‘oohing and ahing’ as we were today!
We’re now settled for a couple of nights at Lac des Settons … blue skies at last (but clouding over). Found a spot overlooking the lake so I’m happy!
On Tuesday we want to start exploring Beaune and the wine villages south of Dijon - maison is that your home turf?

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We were a bit further South, Chalon-sur-Sâone was our nearest large town. We lived between Buxy and St-Gengeoux-le-National, both interesting villages and St-Gengeoux has a free Aire.

Beaune is definitely worth visiting as is Nuits-St-George. The wine villages around Mercurey, Mersault are small but worth a walk around and visit to one of the many wine outlets.

It is a lovely area and we miss it at times. Enjoy your trip.

 

[maison]

Hmm … these reviews of the aire at Beaune from last night are giving me cause to reconsider … View attachment 777014View attachment 777015night are interesting …

The Aire at Beaune was basically a car park when we lived in the area. Crowded but convenient for the town.

 

[pelican]

Well today was indeed Triathlon day and we saw a veritable shoal of red-capped swimmers setting off along the Marne from the city centre.

Having driven along the Avenue de Champagne … the most expensive road in Epernay/France/the World (depending on which guide book you read) … with its 100km of underground caves full of Champagne, we set off south through the arable plains.

It is warm but cloudy and rain is forecast. We took Barryh advice and decided to head for water. We’re debating Giffaumant-Champaubert, Gurgy and Lac des Settons.

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Good tours at that Place; Castellan

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[Grianan]

We’re enjoying some sporadic evening sunshine - between clouds. It has been very showery today - you could see the water vapour rising from the ground when the sun came out briefly.

This morning, Nala ran alongside the bikes in a short cycle into Les Settons for provisions. We’re using a WalkyDog bike attachment and have to make sure we don’t cycle too fast. If I set off first she tries to pull Tim and his bike to catch me up. Conversely, if he sets off first she runs with her head turned round so she can make sure I’m still there.

A Pössl with 3 lovely small dogs - 2 Pinschers and a greyhound - have pitched next to us. The French owners and their dogs are very friendly even persevering to make friends with Nala who is being her usual reserved self.

There have, however, been words spoken with the 2 French ladies in a van further along, who have 2 huge dogs. The ladies are objecting to the 3 wee dogs being loose or, when tied up, being on very long lines. We had been worried the French ladies didn’t like us, as unlike most of their compatriots, they moved further away when we arrived. Having listened in to the dog conversations, I am now reassured that it was just a worry about dogs - phew!

The forecast isn’t great so we’re in two minds whether to belt it down south to make sure of sun, or dodge the rain and see the villages and vineyards around Dijon, Beaune, Chalons-sur-Saone and Mâcon.

 

[Grianan]

After much deliberation, we decided to head for Beaune. To be honest we’re so used to the weather in the west of Scotland that we couldn’t face Provence in July!
Boy, am I glad we did. After driving through the hilly, wooded area around the Lac des Settons we emerged into the vineyards to the west of Beaune. I’ve never seen vineyards like these, enclosed by high stone walls or ‘clos’, dating, apparently, from medieval times and designed to keep thieves out. One one hilly section we saw a 2-horse trailer, not so common in France where the singles seem more common, and 2 heavy horses being tacked up ready to work in the vineyard.
Beaune lived up to all expectations.

All the restaurants in the pedestrianised area were full, but just on the edge we enjoyed the Menu Du Jour at the Cafe Le Lyon and very good it was too. A bargain at …. ??

When we got to the Hospices, it was ‘dogs not allowed’ so Tim waited outside on a stone wall in the shade with Nala whilst I explored the museum. I’m not really a museum person - I’m easily bored and don’t have the attention span for all the details but this was amazing. Well worth the €12 entry fee.
It’s hotter and sunnier than I expected but a sorbet (for me) and glace (for Tim) helped us make it back to the campsite for a cold beer at the bar. Shower time then a baguette for supper after our enormous lunch!

 

[BikerGraham]

Love Beaune. Can sit at one of the cafes in the central square and just watch the world go by. Fantastic

 

[maison]

After much deliberation, we decided to head for Beaune. To be honest we’re so used to the weather in the west of Scotland that we couldn’t face Provence in July!
Boy, am I glad we did. After driving through the hilly, wooded area around the Lac des Settons we emerged into the vineyards to the west of Beaune. I’ve never seen vineyards like these, enclosed by high stone walls or ‘clos’, dating, apparently, from medieval times and designed to keep thieves out. One one hilly section we saw a 2-horse trailer, not so common in France where the singles seem more common, and 2 heavy horses being tacked up ready to work in the vineyard.
Beaune lived up to all expectations.

All the restaurants in the pedestrianised area were full, but just on the edge we enjoyed the Menu Du Jour at the Cafe Le Lyon and very good it was too. A bargain at …. ??

When we got to the Hospices, it was ‘dogs not allowed’ so Tim waited outside on a stone wall in the shade with Nala whilst I explored the museum. I’m not really a museum person - I’m easily bored and don’t have the attention span for all the details but this was amazing. Well worth the €12 entry fee.
It’s hotter and sunnier than I expected but a sorbet (for me) and glace (for Tim) helped us make it back to the campsite for a cold beer at the bar. Shower time then a baguette for supper after our enormous lunch!

View attachment 777878View attachment 777879View attachment 777881View attachment 777882View attachment 777883View attachment 777884View attachment 777886View attachment 777887View attachment 777888View attachment 777889View attachment 777890View attachment 777891View attachment 777892View attachment 777893View attachment 777894

Tournus also has a Hotel Dieu, (old hospital), as well as an interesting Church (Abbey?), a pleasant riverside area and a great market on Saturdays.

It also has a decent campsite which was a Municipal when we were in the area.

If you are in that area it is worth a visit as is Cluny which also has a good Municipal Campsite and a good Saturday market.

Enjoy your trip.

 

[Grianan]

Tournus also has a Hotel Dieu, (old hospital), as well as an interesting Church (Abbey?), a pleasant riverside area and a great market on Saturdays.

It also has a decent campsite which was a Municipal when we were in the area.

If you are in that area it is worth a visit as is Cluny which also has a good Municipal Campsite and a good Saturday market.

Enjoy your trip.

Excellent thank you will look at both of these .., we hope to stay in the area until Monday/Tuesday

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[Grianan]

A mere 14km bimble today. After a stop at Carrefour to refuel the fridge and diesel tank we headed to the beautiful village of Meursault. Picture-postcard-perfect pale stone houses with subtle French Grey shutters give a refined, expensive vibe. The restaurants serving lunch looked wonderful but we contented ourselves with baguette, fromage et tomates in a quiet carpark overlooking the village.
What we saved on lunch we spent in the afternoon when we made the fatal move of a ‘free’ France Passion overnight stop at Maison L. Tramier et fils in Mercurey. Before parting with our hard earned cash we learnt the difference between crémant and mousseux and left with a dozen of the former.
Whilst the municipal was convenient for visiting Beaune, we’re much happier parked up here, overlooking the vines and village lake, with only birdsong and the rumble of the road.
I can’t remember who posted about Merlin Bird ID but it’s really good - here we’re listening to Greenfinches, Blackbirds, Housemartins, Serins and Chaffinches.

 

[TheMachMan]

Looks nice especially Beaune. We whizzed past this area on our way home a couple of weeks back. Looks like we’ll have to explore more next time. We did stop at Challons sur Saone. Nice town but bloody awful Camping Car Aire on the edge of town. Was convenient for walking in but very noisy all night due to traffic, no shade, tarmac heat sink & inconsiderate neighbour who rocked up in the small hours making a lot of noise.
Have you joined French Passion, worthwhile?

 

[Wanders from Glos]

Looks nice especially Beaune. We whizzed past this area on our way home a couple of weeks back. Looks like we’ll have to explore more next time. We did stop at Challons sur Saone. Nice town but bloody awful Camping Car Aire on the edge of town. Was convenient for walking in but very noisy all night due to traffic, no shade, tarmac heat sink & inconsiderate neighbour who rocked up in the small hours making a lot of noise.
Have you joined French Passion, worthwhile?

I'd be interested in that too. My concern is you feel obliged to buy wine?

 

[cagsmck]

I’ve stayed in my touring van nr Chalons Sur Saone but I was on a caravan club site called “ Chateau de L ‘ Eperviere. It’s gorgeous but obviously is a site, not a free Aire. Lake in the middle, Chateau building with wine tasting, bar, small pool , takeaway and restaurant. Been a few times. Gorgeous

 

[TheMachMan]

I’ve stayed in my touring van nr Chalons Sur Saone but I was on a caravan club site called “ Chateau de L ‘ Eperviere. It’s gorgeous but obviously is a site, not a free Aire. Lake in the middle, Chateau building with wine tasting, bar, small pool , takeaway and restaurant. Been a few times. Gorgeous

Yes did see that site. It did look nice.

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[Grianan]

We did stop at Challons sur Saone. Nice town but bloody awful Camping Car Aire on the edge of town. Was convenient for walking in but very noisy all night due to traffic, no shade, tarmac heat sink & inconsiderate neighbour who rocked up in the small hours making a lot of noise.
Have you joined French Passion, worthwhile?

I'd be interested in that too. My concern is you feel obliged to buy wine?

Maybe it was your review of the aire I read on Park4Night … I think we’ll try a day trip in to Challons .

As for FP this is the first one we’ve stayed on and it’s rather nice. We did try another one but listing said you had to call first and I rang several times but no reply.

No obligation to buy but we did as we wanted to take some local wine home with us.

 

[cyberyacht]

Tournus also has a Hotel Dieu, (old hospital), as well as an interesting Church (Abbey?), a pleasant riverside area and a great market on Saturdays.

It also has a decent campsite which was a Municipal when we were in the area.

If you are in that area it is worth a visit as is Cluny which also has a good Municipal Campsite and a good Saturday market.

Enjoy your trip.

We stopped for a couple of nights at Tournus last year. Lovely spot.

 

[Grianan]

Woke this morning to the sound of the vineyard tractor trundling up and down the rows of vines. We popped into the boulangerie to find pain de pralines rather than pain aux raisins. After a second’s hesitation (due to the vibrant red colour, reminding me of a Glasgow curry) I bought the last two. After breakfast by the pond (they were, actually, delicious, with no hint of curry), we took Nala a walk round and spotted hundreds of water boatmen skimming across the surface of the pond and a heron in the willow tree. Google tells me this is normal but it looked too heave for the slender willow branches.
We have now headed an hour north-west of Meursault to find the last spot in a little village aire beside the Canal de Bourgogne. We’re directly on a tow path and close up Chateauneuf medieval village too so plenty to do.

 

[TheMachMan]

Woke this morning to the sound of the vineyard tractor trundling up and down the rows of vines. We popped into the boulangerie to find pain de pralines rather than pain aux raisins. After a second’s hesitation (due to the vibrant red colour, reminding me of a Glasgow curry) I bought the last two. After breakfast by the pond (they were, actually, delicious, with no hint of curry), we took Nala a walk round and spotted hundreds of water boatmen skimming across the surface of the pond and a heron in the willow tree. Google tells me this is normal but it looked too heave for the slender willow branches.
We have now headed an hour north-west of Meursault to find the last spot in a little village aire beside the Canal de Bourgogne. We’re directly on a tow path and close up Chateauneuf medieval village too so plenty to do.View attachment 778786View attachment 778787View attachment 778788

That looks nice, can you share the location? Cheers.

 

[Grianan]

That looks nice, can you share the location? Cheers.

The canal one? Apparently if you cycle one way you come to a 3333m long tunnel which the canal passes through.

The vineyard is this one … Also in France Passion.

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[Grianan]

And a couple of photos from this afternoon’s wee cycle along the canal … reminds me why I love French canals so much. The medieval Chateauneu-en-Auxois reminds me a little of passing Carcassonne when cycling along the Canal du Midi. These white beasts seem typical of the region and very nosy! They all came over to investigate that we were doing. I presume they’re for beef.
I saw a red backed bird that I didn’t recognise so used Merlin Bird ID (other apps are available but ma not be so goo ) and turns out it was a red-backed shrike. It also identified a short-toed tree creeper and the usual array of great tits and chaffinches.
We’d have gone further (honest) but Nala was panting heavily in the 26 degree heat and we were a bit worried about her … the temperature is due to climb steadily to 34 degrees by Sunday. I’m so glad we didn’t rely on Ventusky and head further south .
There’s only one space left here now …

 

[maison]

Charolais beef cattle and delicious when grilled lightly!

We once had to help a local farmer round up 18 of them which had decided that the grass by our place was better than the grass he provided for them.

Glad you are enjoying our old stamping ground.

 

[Grianan]

Charolais beef cattle and delicious when grilled lightly!

We once had to help a local farmer round up 18 of them which had decided that the grass by our place was better than the grass he provided for them.

Glad you are enjoying our old stamping ground.

We’re loving it maison … such a beautiful part of France. Finding it very hard to think of moving on. We had intended heading over to Alsace but that is now on hold.

 

[Grianan]

We’re only half way through our ‘bimble’ but need to be in Ypres on Wednesday afternoon so I need to think about our stops heading north. The plan currently is to visit Chateauneuf-en-Auxois tomorrow morning then head to Quarré-les-Tombes partly because we passed it on the way down, and it looked nice, partly because it has a Sunday market!
We’ll either stay 2 nights or head to Noyers depending how we’re feeling.
On Monday I’d like to go to Sezanne, recommended by Ingwe then on Tuesday to Arras recommended by Landy Andy and loads of others (thank you!).
So back to the here and now. It’s roasty toasty - about 31 degrees and we’ve had a lazy day. We struggled over the canal to the local restaurant for the menu du jour - €16.90 for 4 courses of which the starter (Tim ate two to help me out) looked like luncheon meat in a cold sauce but the rest were spot on. I have discovered a great love for fromage blanc! The overall bill was slightly cheaper than our lunch at Beaune partly because the carafe of Rose was 1/3 the price but it was definitely more ‘rustique’ too.
We then watched the huge barge which has been providing us with entertainment/blocking our view of the village make its way through the lock. As ever Google is our friend. European Waterways started by buying old barges and renovating them. This one sleeps 8-12 and had been chartered by a multi-generational American family for a birthday celebration. As far as we can see there’s a skipper, 2 deckhands and a chef on the boat who are joined by activities co-ordinators in port. They are met in port by a very smart Sprinter minibus and taken on excursions. It has bikes, a hot tub, a shaded outdoor area and a sun deck. And just in case you’re wanting to charter it, it’s €56,000 for 6 days just now.

 

[Ingwe]

There’s a lovely walk amongst strange rock formations near Quarré-les-Tombes. Once when we were having lunch there I got up to get something from the van parked across the street. I inadvertently knocked over a racing bike that had propped up against the fence near my table. The owner of the bike was not amused! There was no damage, I apologised (even though I had no way of seeing the bike) but the French cyclist went on and on, gesticulating wildly. Eventually, I told him to ”do one” and he sat down, mumbling for the rest of his meal.

Your food photos look lovely too by the way!

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[Ingwe]

These are the strange rock formations. Strange because it is named ‘rock of fairies’ and there is a distinctly weird atmosphere there.

555 � #Quarré-les-Tombes #89 #89630

Site ludique recensant des monuments, moulins, fontaines, lavoirs ou chapelles non class�s. Visites, explorations, chasses aux tr�sors.

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[Barryh]

Tim ate two to help me out) looked like luncheon meat in a cold sauce

We recently had the luncheon meat starter, but without the leaves, in a “local” restaurant in Clemacy. It tastes much better than it looks. Enjoying your trip by the way.

 

[Grianan]

We recently had the luncheon meat starter, but without the leaves, in a “local” restaurant in Clemacy. It tastes much better than it looks. Enjoying your trip by the way.

That’s interesting …. the leaves were very good . Im not sure why I couldn’t face it - possibly recalling school meals in the 70s?

Glad you’re enjoying it - it does rather feel as if you’re writing to a vacuum sometimes so all comments much appreciated!

 

[Grianan]

These are the strange rock formations. Strange because it is named ‘rock of fairies’ and there is a distinctly weird atmosphere there.

555 � #Quarré-les-Tombes #89 #89630

Site ludique recensant des monuments, moulins, fontaines, lavoirs ou chapelles non class�s. Visites, explorations, chasses aux tr�sors.

petit-patrimoine.com

Rocks are fascinating - I’ll change my glasses and read this carefully. I wonder if they are there naturally or stones moved by Celtish-type peoples?

 

[DBK]

We’re loving it maison … such a beautiful part of France. Finding it very hard to think of moving on. We had intended heading over to Alsace but that is now on hold.

We may be in that area in September, thanks for giving us ideas of places to visit.

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