Latest 3D print (1 Viewer)

[olley]

Just printed a couple of gutter brackets for the Gazibo, designed them in fusion.

 

[Otter Spotter]

Bang tidy skills you have there sir

 

[olley]

After 16 a hour print I have a 110mm sewer cap. This has been a pain as I started it with a new roll of filament and after about 5 hours it went to pot, deciding that it was the nozzle I replaced that only for the same thing to happen again, so it's a crap filament, new roll ordered and that was ok the other one from Amazon is going back.

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[Coastal Cruiser.]

Looking at a 3d printer for myself.

Out of interest what would the material cost be to print this please?

 

[olley]

Looking at a 3d printer for myself.

Out of interest what would the material cost be to print this please?

It's weighs about 150grams coastal, filament vary's in price depending who you buy from but £25 for 1kg is typical from Amazon so about £3.75

 

[Nirvanauk]

Do you have to be a CAD expert to produce something on a 3D printer?

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[Coastal Cruiser.]

It's weighs about 150grams coastal, filament vary's in price depending who you buy from but £25 for 1kg is typical from Amazon.

Thanks,

That’s not to bad then assuming you don’t have to many mistakes

 

[olley]

It's cheaper than Screwfix but designing it in and other things in fusion 360 keeps my brain from completely seizing up.

 

[RetiredPope]

Do you have to be a CAD expert to produce something on a 3D printer?

No is the short answer. Do a google search for 3D models will throw up several sites which offer free models. The best (in y opinion) is https://www.thingiverse.com/ do a search there for anything of interest, but only when you've got several hours to spare. So long as you can get an STL file you stand a good chance of printing it.

Having said that, getting to grips with a 3D cad program opens up infinite possibilities. For instance, I saw a cane topper on Thingiverse and then copied the design, but for 5 canes not 6 to match the number of runner bean plants we had.

I would suggest starting with something like Fusion 360, and some basic youtube videos. Starting with simple boxes or turned parts will get you familiar with the software. You can design some really amazing and useful items with just extrude and cut (the 2 basic and most often used commands) then later you can move on the the more complicated commands.

In my opinion (having been a mechanical designer starting on a drafting board and now using SolidWorks and Inventor) anyone with basic mechanical aptitude (can change a fuse in a plug) can learn to 3D draft. 3D is a lot easier than 2D.

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[reginacarr679]

It looks really cool. My husband started to learn 3d printing last year.

 

[Guigsy]

Just printed a couple of gutter brackets for the Gazibo, designed them in fusion.

View attachment 454517

View attachment 454518

Looks good. I particularly like the jigsaw tabs. Suggestions:
-Where you can, put fillets on sharp edges. It gives the printer an easier time and it reduces the chance that the part will crack from that corner.
-If your infill is about 10% (which is often plenty), you might find that the cut-out under the channel is actually costing you plastic and print time. Walls take lots of layers where as infill is fast and cheap.
-It is possible to make the bracket hook over the top of the gazebo frame? That way you'd not need a 2nd piece? Or at least move the connection to less of a stress point.

 

[68c]

Family just bought me a 3D printer for my 70th, and to keep me occupied as just had left knee replaced on the 31st Jan.
It is a Creality Enders 3 V2, with the additional CR Touch Auto Level probe.
Assembled it OK, did the firmware update to add the auto level functionality. Struggled a bit with that until I realised I could not use long file names.
Adjusted the initial Z axis setting using the levelling screws and setting to 0.0mm with a piece of A4 paper just sliding under the tip. Then manual level using the four thumb wheels, did the Z setting again, adjusted the level and again fine tune the Z axis. Then ran the Auto Level, all seems OK.
Decided to make the sample owl model included on the SD card. Then realised I needed a 'slicer', so part way up the learning curve. Loaded up the Cura app, processed the owl model included on the SD card. Loaded the file onto a fresh SD card remembering the short file name. Did the pre-heat, sprayed on the adhesive and nervously selected the file to print. Nothing....my son asked if all was well then suddenly it burst into life, drew a line down the side of the table them near to the centre where it started to draw a square and then filled it in with a crisscross pattern. The display suggested over 40 hours to complete! Perhaps I should have started with a smaller model. After half an hour it was about 10mm high so decided to leave it running overnight, it only had the small coil of free PLA loaded so expected it to run out.
Next morning greeted with a beautiful white plastic plinth with a pair of talons topped with a birds nest of thin filament with the machine still slowly moving the head around without any filament. The plinth easily lifted off the tray but was slightly convex. Nice detail on the talons though.
Research suggested it may have not been a good idea to leave it overnight running in an unheated conservatory on a cold January night.
I loaded up a new PLA spool and tried to print a smaller Warhammer 40K model part, noticed that the print nozzle seemed to be 2 to 3mm above the bed while printing and that I could see the filament coming out of the tip dragging itself through the air for about 10mm before dropping down onto the print, like watching a spider making a web.
Then I found out about Z axis offset. Have tried several times but cannot get to grips with it.

Any suggestions?

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[olley]

I just manually level mine every now and then, or if it prints a bit pants.
Never altered the Z axis setting which is set by Cura depending on what filament you selected from its drop down menu.
Maybe try a manual level?

 

[68c]

Thanks, still a bit hazy on the relationship between the manual deck level, the Z axis zero setting the Z axis offset and the auto levelling. I have put the machine into the spare bedroom so hoping temperature will be acceptable. I will try again to print a smaller item. The first useful thing I want to make is the knob for the Pilote wing mirror control. Of course I will have to improve my CAD knowledge so loads of fun to be had over the next few weeks.

 

[tonyidle]

I have the same machine.

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[Bobby-gg]

I'll jump on this thread quickly, this is my latest design, wanted a led lamp that I could use with my dewalt 18v batteries, and it's perfect for use with my older batteries that struggle with high current tools as it only pulls 1/2 amp and lasts around 4 hours per charge.

Designed in Fusion 360

 

[68c]

Managed to print off the 3Dbenchy test piece. Apparently it features many of the difficult to print items, overhangs etc. Came out better than I expected, a few whiskers hanging down in the curved top of the rear window and a bit 'elephant foot' around the base. Had to heat the plate to 70° to free the model so bottom surface detail ruined. Printed with PLA at 200° nozzle and 60° plate. Will try reducing both temperatures by 10° for next test. Also nozzle far to close to the bed for first layer as it squished the extrusion flat. I manually set the bed to 0.0mm Z Axis, for some reason it has decided to have a -2.0mm Z offset. Perhaps the profile determined that. I will try to reset that to 1.0mm. Also may have applied too much adhesive.

 

[mitzimad]

I NEED A PLUG FOR THE AREIL POLE GROMET IS THAT SOME THING ONE OF YOU 3D PRINTRS COULD MAKE? I CAN GET DIMS FOR IT WITH A VERNIER

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[68c]

Sorry, still learning, have not even looked at the CAD side of things yet. Just to show off what little knowledge I do have, you need to draw a three dimensional model using Computer Aided Drawing software then run that through 'Slicer' software. This converts the CAD file into a Gcode file that tells the printer what to do. By some cunning wizardry it divides the model up into layers around 0.12mm thick moving the nozzle to the various coordinates while turning the flow of melted filament on and off. I have managed to Slice a free CAD drawing to make my model, think it will take a while to learn how to generate the vital CAD model though.
Oh, I have also learnt this hobby is a time thief as you watch the machine slowly plod away. That boat took over three hours.....must go to bed.

 

[68c]

Do you have to be a CAD expert to produce something on a 3D printer?

Not really, you can print off pre drawn models, loads of free ones and even more you pay for. As I want to make odd parts I need to learn CAD.

 

[Tombola]

Does google sketchup work with these

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[68c]

Don't know, I will have a look at it and report back.


It looks like it is only a 2D drawing app, so probably no good.

 

[stevec]

I use Open scad. Very different approach to Fusion 360 which I couldn’t get on with. I’ll maybe revisit it again sometime.

 

[Bobby-gg]

I use Open scad. Very different approach to Fusion 360 which I couldn’t get on with. I’ll maybe revisit it again sometime.

I'm the opposite, I find fusion really easy to use and if I struggle with anything, youtube normally has a good video showing how to over come it.

I've tried open scad and just couldn't get on with it, but Big Clive has some good YouTube videos, and the latest one is interesting battery holders which can be scaled using open scad which I'd like to try

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[Realist]

I have the Ender 5 Pro and just purchased the Revopoint POP 3D Scanner Handheld 3D Modeling with Turntable Tripod and LED Light.

Had a quick play but looks ok for scanning and reproducing small’ish broken parts that’s what Inhad it for.

Having a few issues with my Ender 5 where the filament is not sticking to the glass bed (used to) so I think it may be the filament itself so will try another reel later and see.

 

[Puddleduck]

Does google sketchup work with these

I use Sketchup Make which used to be a free download. You have to add free extras from their warehouse to save to STL files and there are also free add ons that check the integrity of the model.

There are lots of CAD modelling programmes around and you have to find one that suits the way your brain works.

 

[Bobby-gg]

If you're used to sketchup, tinkercad may be worth a look

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[Bobby-gg]

I have the Ender 5 Pro and just purchased the Revopoint POP 3D Scanner Handheld 3D Modeling with Turntable Tripod and LED Light.

Had a quick play but looks ok for scanning and reproducing small’ish broken parts that’s what Inhad it for.

Having a few issues with my Ender 5 where the filament is not sticking to the glass bed (used to) so I think it may be the filament itself so will try another reel later and see.

After a year of use I found my qqs printer was struggling with bed adhesion, tried cleaning and scraping the bed etc but ended up adding a magnetic pei bed and that transformed the bed adhesion

 

[John Barrett]

Now THIS is a 3D printer! CNC five axis meets 3D printing!

Technology - Wire Laser Metal 3D Printing | Meltio

Meltio’s technology comes packaged in a compact deposition head, host of multiple lasers and capable of processing single and dual wire.

meltio3d.com

 

[Coastal Cruiser.]

Purchased a Prusa after seeing some threads on here, very handy and printed loads of brackets plus holders for Netgear M2 and camera.
Made some of these handy coat hooks for MH garage door.

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