Inverter connection to leisure battery

Swifter

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I wondered if this is an acceptable way of connecting my power inverter to my leisure battery . The previous method was crocodile clips . Would this work ok please ? I’ve just put it over the post and not sure if this will be ok .
86A25DFF-F65F-48D8-B97D-35D9EDB9E1F4.jpeg
 
Use lock rings to ensure wing nut doesn't loosen etc.
Thank you . I was going to put an inline fuse or breaker in . What would you suggest . It’s a1200w/2400w inverter so I was thinking 150amp ?
 
Battery posts and clamps are tapered, yours looks upside down. Less of the clamp in contact with the post
lol that’s the other connection . I was looking at the picture and wondering why it wasn’t properly fitted . Thank you . I will sort that out 👍🏻

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You might need thicker wiring depending on the size of the invertor, its DC so need a bigger csa cable.
 
It’s 16mm wiring . Do I need more ?
Depends on how many amps your pulling, check this out
 
It’s 16mm wiring . Do I need more ?

Yes, at least 30mm with that size of inverter and a fuse to protect the cable. You can read of my woes with cable and inverters in the lead acid to lithium thread in my signature.
 
Yes, at least 30mm with that size of inverter and a fuse to protect the cable. You can read of my woes with cable and inverters in the lead acid to lithium thread in my signature.
Ok that’s a pain , that will teach me to research first next time .

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Wires are too thin and suggest 300A fuse, which won't fit that little holder. You need a mega fuseholder as used for car subwoofers.
Jump leads are OK if you're sure they are copper, not the cheap aluminium ones, otherwise buy the correct leads which you can get with the ends already fitted.
 
Wires are too thin and suggest 300A fuse, which won't fit that little holder. You need a mega fuseholder as used for car subwoofers.
Jump leads are OK if you're sure they are copper, not the cheap aluminium ones, otherwise buy the correct leads which you can get with the ends already fitted.
Ok thank you .
Just to clarify it’s the 16mm red cable connected with the wing nut . The other thin cable with a fuse is for the vans 12v supply . I was told my the local electrics place who made up the leads that 16mm cable would be ok for running the 1000w inverter so disappointed they didn’t advise me well , should have checked it here first . I am going to sort out a fuse as I haven’t ordered one yet .
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wht are you running through your invertor, if it is just small loads for now its ok, and you do have the invertor positive fused at the battery dont you Swifter
 
wht are you running through your invertor, if it is just small loads for now its ok, and you do have the invertor positive fused at the battery dont you Swifter
It’s not been connected yet , just run the wires today. I haven’t put a fuse in yet . It will only be for occasional use and small loads .
 
stick a 100amp fuse or a trip in that 16mm cable for now if you need to use it for small loads, then if you do use it try and keep it to smaller loads for now.

you can up the cable and the fuse later
 
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stick a 100amp fuse or a trip in that 16mm cable for now if you need to use it for small loads, then if you do use it try and keep it to smaller loads for now.

you can up the cable and the fuse later
No, not a 100a on a 16mm2 cable. The fuse is to protect the cable. On that 16mm2 your safe limit is 50a fuse. Otherwise you’ll run hot.

The 1200w inverter should be fitted with 35mm2 cable( only up to 5m max), and a 125-150a fuse, I would go for maxi fuse in holder. This will enable full use of inverter.
 
Agree with Raul's comments on the fuse & cable but I'm more concerned about the other cable you say runs the van electrics. That should be at lest 16mm sq, my van has 25mm sq cable connecting the hab electrics to the battery.

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Agree with Raul's comments on the fuse & cable but I'm more concerned about the other cable you say runs the van electrics. That should be at lest 16mm sq, my van has 25mm sq cable connecting the hab electrics to the battery.
Ok Lenny Thank you .
As far as I know it’s the standard factory fitted wires . I am not in a position to be able to change that . I will have to get someone to look at it I guess.
 
Ok Lenny Thank you .
As far as I know it’s the standard factory fitted wires . I am not in a position to be able to change that . I will have to get someone to look at it I guess.
If its a Brit built van it's quite common they always use way undersized wiring.
 
Can I ask, as I am considering a permanent install of a 2.5kw inverter, mainly because I have a low wattage microwave, what I should do on my van. I have at the moment one 105Ah lead acid battery and near end of life so would consider alternatives, dedicated space also for a second about six inches away and a 120 watt solar panel. My aim is to have a permanent 13Amp socket connected to the inverter, suitably marked. The van has a CBE control system which I am reluctant to muck about with as it all works well at the moment. The CBE charger is rated at 16amps, I assume as that is what you will get max on EHU.

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Can I ask, as I am considering a permanent install of a 2.5kw inverter, mainly because I have a low wattage microwave, what I should do on my van. I have at the moment one 105Ah lead acid battery and near end of life so would consider alternatives, dedicated space also for a second about six inches away and a 120 watt solar panel. My aim is to have a permanent 13Amp socket connected to the inverter, suitably marked. The van has a CBE control system which I am reluctant to muck about with as it all works well at the moment. The CBE charger is rated at 16amps, I assume as that is what you will get max on EHU.
I wouldn't attempt to run the microwave from one battery, 2x105ah and decent batteries at that would be my minimum, microwaves don't tend to be used for very long periods so the actual capacity is not the issue, 120watts of solar will put something back in on a good day so it all comes down to a balance of what you are actually taking out in terms of capacity.
 

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