How to wire up new light fitting

[Lost Sun]

I would like to fit an outside "awning" type 12v LED light on my PVC and several people have commented on another thread suggesting I connect up to one of the existing lights in a cupboard right next to where the new exterior light is going to be fitted. I obviously will need a switch as well.
So can anyone set out in simple terms how to wire it up. In terms of load, all the fittings in the van had Halogen bulbs but these were all replaced with LED bulbs when I bought the van. I'm quite happy soldering and following instructions but need help with the specific wiring diagram and is it ok to get the feed from the rear of an existing fitting and where do I pick up the ground/neutral from?

Many thanks

Simon

 

[mitzimad]

As you have changed to led lights you have reduced the load so I would just piggy back from existing ligthing .Find a permenantly live that goes to your new switch from other side of switch to one side of led and other side of led to either an earth point to to earth wire on existing
Remember led are polarity sense time so if they don't work reverse connections
Use cable of similar size to existing you could add an in line fuse but should be ok with existing fuses

 

[autorouter]

If the existing fitting has a built-in switch, you can simply use the positive (live) and negative (ground/neutral) from the fitting. If it has a separate switch, you have to use the positive from the switch. One side of the switch will be permanently on, and the other side will be switched. Use the permanently on terminal.

Connect the negative directly from the existing fitting to the negative terminal of the new fitting. If the new fitting has a built-in switch, connect the positive in the same way.

If the new fitting needs a separate switch, take the positive to the switch, then connect the other terminal of the switch to the new fitting positive.

Remember it is DC, and it matters which way round you connect it. Get it reversed and you'll probably blow the fitting.

The 12V negative is always connected to chassis/ground. There is no need for a third earth wire.

Be careful of wiring colour codes. Don't assume anything. Hymer, for example, use blue = positive, brown = negative, where most others use the opposite.

Don't assume soldering is best. The red/blue/yellow crimp terminals are used in vehicles because they are more reliable long-term when subject to vibration. Opinions vary on this - I am quite competent at soldering but would always use crimps in a vehicle.

Don't worry about the loading. If the wiring was designed for halogen bulbs, you could wire in a dozen more LED lights and still be below the original loading.

 

[Lost Sun]

Really appreciate all your help. I'm going to NEC in Feb so hope to buy a suitable fitting there and will fit myself.

 

[Minxy]

I keep meaning to do this too with our Globecar, I'm gonna get a 12v strip of LED lights off Ebay, they do waterproof versions and are much cheaper than buying a normal type fitting especially since there's not much space on a PVC to fit one! You'll already have the light over your cooker which you can tap into for power and could just fit a switch in the side of the kitchen cupboard above, or even above the sliding door next to the control panel ... just make sure the switch it has a light on it so that you remember to turn it off!

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[Lost Sun]

Good idea about an indicator light in the switch