How much Waxoyl?

[Dee101]

I’m thinking of DIYing the underside of my Hymer B654. Which is just under 7 metres long. I know it’ll be messy. But what I don’t know is approximately how many litres I should buy.
Also. Can it be “sploshed” on with a large brush as well as spraying, for example, to areas around the edge of the van. Or is it best to stick to the spraying?
And is it fair to say that once the underside is relatively clean and dry, all surfaces can be covered, and that this will be a lot easier if the oil is warm?

 

[rod_vw]

The quantity is very much guess work but buy more than you think. From experience of genuine Waxoyl don't warm it too much as that seems to destroy its liquidness and it solidifies after a while.
Personally I would spray it on and into as many hollow sections as you can with a professional application kit. I bought one of these to apply a similar surface protection product under my classic car but I do have access to a professional compressor. That Sealey kit is obtainable cheaper elsewhere.

Do the job on the warmest day you can manage so that the product can seep into as many crevices as possible.

 

[chatteris]

i would use lanoguard instead, dont bother with thier kit just buy the fluid and a garden sprayer

 

[L' Hobo]

The quantity is very much guess work but buy more than you think. From experience of genuine Waxoyl don't warm it too much as that seems to destroy its liquidness and it solidifies after a while.
Personally I would spray it on and into as many hollow sections as you can with a professional application kit. I bought one of these to apply a similar surface protection product under my classic car but I do have access to a professional compressor. That Sealey kit is obtainable cheaper elsewhere.

Do the job on the warmest day you can manage so that the product can seep into as many crevices as possible.

Just like you, I too have the professional kit, with it's long thin extensions it can get were others cannot. If it needs a large compressor, I doubt but don't know as I too use one.
The OP should wear old clothes and as much room as possible underneath.
Not sure that I would do it in this heat as it's liable to drip profusely? Better in late summer and use warmed in a bucket and slightly diluted?
As for quantity, buy more than you need, it won't go off and can be used at a later date.

 

[Otter Spotter]

Lanoguard far less messy to use and made with natural ingredients not Petroleum, what’s not to like

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[L' Hobo]

Lanoguard far less messy to use and made with natural ingredients not Petroleum, what’s not to like

What natural ingredients?

 

[Lenny HB]

If your Hymer has an Al-Ko chassis the only bits that will need treating is the rear axle and any Chassis extensions and if the Front end is Fiat after 2006 that will be galvanized.

 

[Otter Spotter]

What natural ingredients?

Lanolin

 

[L' Hobo]

Lanolin

How does one dilute it so it gets into all the cracks and crevices?

 

[Otter Spotter]

How does one dilute it so it gets into all the cracks and crevices?

You dont, just spray it on with the tools provided

FAQs

Everything you need to know about Lanoguard's product range. Contact us with any other questions you might have.

www.lanoguard.co.uk

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[L' Hobo]

If your Hymer has an Al-Ko chassis the only bits that will need treating is the rear axle and any Chassis extensions and if the Front end is Fiat after 2006 that will be galvanized.

My 2007 Fiat Ducato has (or had when I bought it 5-6yrs ago) more rust underneath than on my 1989 VW? Not so much on chassis but bolt on bits like engine, springs and various plates?

 

[L' Hobo]

You dont, just spray it on with the tools provided

FAQs

Everything you need to know about Lanoguard's product range. Contact us with any other questions you might have.

www.lanoguard.co.uk

Interesting that they do not recommend it for galvanized surfaces?

 

[Gromett]

I 2nd or 3rd Lanoguard.

 

[JockandRita]

I 2nd or 3rd Lanoguard.

And I fourth it. Great stuff, and well recommended by Land Rover enthusiasts.

Cheers,

Jock.

 

[L' Hobo]

And I fourth it. Great stuff, and well recommended by Land Rover enthusiasts.

Cheers,

Jock.

I honestly have never had any dealing with it and know nothing about it, I'm just asking about the galvanized metal question as most chassis these days are Galvanized, but no-one seems to know the answer?

This question came because of the FAQ post that Otter Spotter posted.

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[Dee101]

The quantity is very much guess work but buy more than you think. From experience of genuine Waxoyl don't warm it too much as that seems to destroy its liquidness and it solidifies after a while.
Personally I would spray it on and into as many hollow sections as you can with a professional application kit. I bought one of these to apply a similar surface protection product under my classic car but I do have access to a professional compressor. That Sealey kit is obtainable cheaper elsewhere.

Do the job on the warmest day you can manage so that the product can seep into as many crevices as possible.

Thanks for that. But, 5 litres, 10 litres, 20 litres? I’m not after something precise

 

[L' Hobo]

Thanks for that. But, 5 litres, 10 litres, 20 litres? I’m not after something precise

For a 7m Van, 5ltrs should be ample, this size will also fit inside a bucket full of boiling water if you want to heat it and YES you can splodge it or spray. Full instructions are (or used to be) on the side of the tin.

 

[Tea Bag]

Hi.
What about old engine oil ?.................. MESSY......yes ,but.
Tea Bag

 

[Gingernuts]

i would use lanoguard instead, dont bother with thier kit just buy the fluid and a garden sprayer

2nd the lanoguard kit used it on my own van, 6m pvc, easy (pleasant) to put on

 

[Gromett]

I honestly have never had any dealing with it and know nothing about it, I'm just asking about the galvanized metal question as most chassis these days are Galvanized, but no-one seems to know the answer?

This question came because of the FAQ post that Otter Spotter posted.

I read it as
a) not being needed as galvanisation does the same job as Lanoguard
b) May cause changes to the visual appearance of bare galvanised steel.

My thoughts are.
a) Galvanisation doesn't stop rust it only delays it. by adding lanoguard you are protecting the galvanised layer so that it lasts longer.
b) I think this is mainly for things like Ifor Williams trailers which have a load of galvanised steel as part of it's visual styling and spraying lanoguard may make it look strange.

I would suggest having a word with them if you are concerned. I personally won't hesitate to use it on a galvanised chassis.

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[Dee101]

For a 7m Van, 5ltrs should be ample, this size will also fit inside a bucket full of boiling water if you want to heat it and YES you can splodge it or spray. Full instructions are (or used to be) on the side of the tin.

Thank you very much

 

[Otter Spotter]

Interesting that they do not recommend it for galvanized surfaces?

No need it’s galvanised but where the jacking points are it does get rust and I have sprayed the metal bands holding the underslung tanks.

 

[Gromett]

No need it’s galvanised

Genuine question here?

Are the sevel vans galvanised after construction? If so do they seal the seams after to protect the areas where the galv might not get to?
Or do they used pre galvanised steel prior to stamping and spot welding. In which case how do they protect the edges and prevent the welder from burning away the zinc?

It appears to me that a few people (not accusing you) appear to think that galvanising is a magic cure that stop rust. It only stops rust if really, really well applied like on Ifor Williams trailers. And even then it will wear out over time especially round bolts, welds and mounts.

I have run tests on mild steel and galv steel and the galv steel still rusted eventually.

Fluid film/Lanoguard was really effective in my tests and most effective over the high zinc primer.

 

[Otter Spotter]

Genuine question here?

Are the sevel vans galvanised after construction? If so do they seal the seams after to protect the areas where the galv might not get to?
Or do they used pre galvanised steel prior to stamping and spot welding. In which case how do they protect the edges and prevent the welder from burning away the zinc?

It appears to me that a few people (not accusing you) appear to think that galvanising is a magic cure that stop rust. It only stops rust if really, really well applied like on Ifor Williams trailers. And even then it will wear out over time especially round bolts, welds and mounts.

I have run tests on mild steel and galv steel and the galv steel still rusted eventually.

Fluid film/Lanoguard was really effective in my tests and most effective over the high zinc primer.

I cannot tell you how they are galvanised, but I believe the galvanising only slows rusting down with van 10 to 15 years old showing only minor rust, but if there is any damage then rust will appear very soon. Lanolin is an annual treatment and I would recommend ensuring all parts for spraying are cleaned ( though do not take my word for it I am in no way an expert).
As you have done tests, would you recommend spraying the inside of the sills? Even though they are galvanised and the plastic side panel fitting holes are sealed much better than Sprinters. I ask because I can see behind the plastic panels some slight yellowing of the white paint, I am not sure if it is just surface rust or crap paint !

 

[Simon Meadwell]

Just used lanoguard on my mgbgt used about 1 ltr and sprayed it liberally . It goes a long way. My body work chap was impressed with me doing it he uses on all his vehicles old a new.

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[Otter Spotter]

Just used lanoguard on my mgbgt used about 1 ltr and sprayed it liberally . It goes a long way. My body work chap was impressed with me doing it he uses on all his vehicles old a new.

What’s a mgbgt ?

 

[Gromett]

As you have done tests, would you recommend spraying the inside of the sills? Even though they are galvanised and the plastic side panel fitting holes are sealed much better than Sprinters. I ask because I can see behind the plastic panels some slight yellowing of the white paint, I am not sure if it is just surface rust or crap paint !

I personally would spray anything accessible from outside. Inside of sills are a big problem. The plastic clip holes are also a problem on some vehicles, but I tend to insulate on the inside around that area which prevents moisture/air getting in. But it does need to be properly sealed with either closed cell foam or a well sealed vapour barrier.

The big problem is no one and I mean no one has done a side by side long term test of all the options. All the testing done I have seen is artificial and in some cases accelerated.

The testing I did was in a dark area where they got covered in soil, bird poop and crap rained down off trees and bushes. It wasn't a rigorous or a very scientific test. I just wacked various coatings and treatments on some squares of metal and lobbed them down the side of my trailer. I dug them out a few years later after I sold the trailer. They were covered in soil and mouldy leaves. So my views are still anecdotal as they don't represent real world usage due to the lack of road salt and high pressure spray etc.

My personal view is this. If you can get in early enough cover everything with Fluid Film or Lanoguard. However If rust has already formed. Knock off any loose stuff and treat with lanoguard as a bare minimum.
BUT if possible wire brush as much as you can down to bare metal. Treat with a Phosphoric acid based treatment, then clean of again with wire brush. Spray on a high zinc primer, leave to dry. Then either apply a paint then lanoguard or just lanoguard straight onto the zinc primer.

On my van, I will be cleaning off the rust, high zinc primer then direct to fluid film. I will be treating the sills, the engine bay, inside the wheel arches and wings and all the underneath. I will be spraying deep into the suspension turrets and any cavities underneath. The jacking points will also get a thorough seeing to.

I would avoid any coatings that dry, set or are coloured. They hide a multitude of sins and you cannot monitor the rust which progresses behind these type of coatings. I hate waxoyl and underseal with a passion having had rust creep behind these coatings.

These are my opinions and they are just opinions, your results may vary.

 

[Gromett]

What’s a mgbgt ?

One of the best cars ever

 

[Otter Spotter]

One of the best cars ever

Got it Mgb GT agreed!

Loved the wire wheels and the fact that it was probably the best sports hot hatch, no Golf GTI for me

 

[JockandRita]

What’s a mgbgt ?

One of these.

Cheers,

Jock.

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