Help needed replacing Globecar submersible pump... (1 Viewer)

[Hagstrom]

My water pump packed in whilst away on a trip. I had read that they are notorious for failing and had a spare. Now trying to fit it and find that the existing white pump body doesn't seem to want to part from the the duck egg blue adapter(?) - is it glued in or do you have to (1) get brutal with it or (2) cut it off where the blue hose joins and make a new mechanical joint with the blue hose, using a stainless steel jubilee clip? Photo below:-

 

[autorouter]

That adapter is probably a non-return valve. Sorry I don't know if it's a push-in fitting ot glued in permanently.

 

[dosser]

The blue part is the nonreturn valve you can buy them but I managed to twist it off using a bit of force, think it was glued on.

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[Hagstrom]

Thanks Dosser, it helps knowing what the bits do!

We've a Campscout too and so far I have only used my own grip but maybe ill try a little mechanical assistance to twist off the pump body.

New new pump body suggests that it should be a push on fit, rather than glued.

 

[Bognor Saint]

That's the same pump we have in our Dethleffs. Ours failed last year. Replaced under warranty but I now carry a spare. I'll watch this post with interest.

 

[Hagstrom]

Replaced the pump and the taps are working again! Dosser's advice gave me the confidence to apply eagle-grips to each side of the join and with quite a lot of force, the glued(?) joint broke free, (where the white pump body goes into the light blue non-return valve(?).

There's not a lot involved in the re-assembly. The waterproof clear plastic conduit for the pump's feed wires and the pump's blue water outflow pipe and a length of bendable stiffening wire (to help keep the pump located at the bottom of the tank's "sump" are gripped together with several plastic ties along its length.

To disassemble, with the pump still submerged, you need to gently pull it away from the sump and carfeully out of the tank enclosure through the large inspection lid on the tank's top. You can then snip the plastic ties and free the water pipe, the clear sheath for the current carrying wires and the stiffening, locating wire from each other.

The old pump's current carrying wire conduit can be pulled through its watertight gland and out of the tank. You can then separate the white pump body from the blue water pipe/non-return(?) valve with some careful force. DIsconnect the current carrying wires from the 2 x Wago supply feeds, one positve and one negative. Curiously, mine were not connected blue to blue and brown to brown. They were connected brown to blue, brown to blue.

Reassembly was the reverse. I relied on a strong push fit of the water pipe/non-return valve on to the new pump. Time will tell if it's enough! Make sure the stiffening wire locates your pump at the very bottom of the tanks sump. Removing the clear plastic current carrying wires waterproof gland on the top of the tank helps feed the new pumps wires up through, out of the tank. You can then refit the gland.

Before calling for water from the taps' microswitches, make sure the new pump is under the water to enable it to prime properly with water, which it needs to lubricate its action.

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[Vipar]

Put her hair dryer on it to soften the plastic

 

[Garfields]

Put her hair dryer on it to soften the plastic

Cup of near boiling water works well if no hair dryer available
Not sure my pump has the non return valve fitted ? will have a look tomorrow
I carry a spare anyway though finding it in the van could be a challenge but it's in there some place

 

[Hagstrom]

Has anybody relied on a push-fit for the replacement pump? (I have I'm wondering if it's a mistake.) Or have you glued it back in place?

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