Habitation Door - Access to inside for maintenance?

[AlastairH]

Can anyone advise me how to remove the inner panel of this Hartal door please? I need to gain access to change some wiring and to lubricate the door lock solenoid which sticks after periods of inactivity.

 

[kevenh]

BUMP

I’ve no relevant door knowledge. Just a wiring shortcut.
If the wires are accessible at both ends can the new wires be attached to the old ones and pulled through?

 

[AlastairH]

I am afraid not. I can only access the cable outside the door where it connects to a junction box. I really need to get inside the door to do a proper job.

 

[Gellyneck]

Bit of another BUMP.

No real idea (as with most things) but does the panel the bin is attached to remove independently?
Might give you access to the cable and the lock solenoid?

edit, meant to say ( ) have you tried removing the bin to see if there are screws behind it.

 

[rb62]

Not dealt with one of these but worth looking for screws :-under the white end caps of the handle,behind the pull handle,behind whatever the other black bit is by the top of the window?
Does the rubber seal hold it round the edge hold it on? some of them use non setting adhesive on the larger flat areas that just takes a good pull but if your not sure could be risky

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[wolfie2]

I hope this helps....I have an E520 with a very similar door

Step1.The door handle is held on by 2 screws ..one at each end under the small covers that just need picking away. Remove the screws.
Step2. Behind the door latch handle there is screw....remove that and loosen the latch handle.... and wiggle through the dark coloured panel once step 3 completed.
Step3 The darker coloured panel can now be removed...its held by press/pull clips around the curved edge....about 6 from recollection...and the vertical outer edge is a push fit behind the rubber seal. Easiest with a trim removal tool but doable with a screwdriver. The clips are a bit fragile so care needed.

This gives access to the lock mechanism but not the wiring behind the bigger light coloured panel. I didn't need to remove that for the work I was doing.

Hope that makes sense.

 

[Sheddy]

I hope this helps....I have an E520 with a very similar door

Step1.The door handle is held on by 2 screws ..one at each end under the small covers that just need picking away. Remove the screws.
Step2. Behind the door latch handle there is screw....remove that and loosen the latch handle.... and wiggle through the dark coloured panel once step 3 completed.
Step3 The darker coloured panel can now be removed...its held by press/pull clips around the curved edge....about 6 from recollection...and the vertical outer edge is a push fit behind the rubber seal. Easiest with a trim removal tool but doable with a screwdriver. The clips are a bit fragile so care needed.

This gives access to the lock mechanism but not the wiring behind the bigger light coloured panel. I didn't need to remove that for the work I was doing.

Hope that makes sense.

Just add that some older models didn't use the clips but sections of industrial Velcro, which were a PITA to seperate.
Out of interest what wiring changes are you doing? I had to replace the solenoid because it was jamming but found a suitable one on eBay, and now carry a spare.
If you need any bits for the linkage I have a new assembly from our old Bessacar which I had to buy just for a fractured handle.
Cheers
Ed

 

[AlastairH]

Thank you, Wolfie2 and Sheddy.

That's great and gives me a few pointers on how to tackle the problem and thank you for offering some bits that I may need.

My two specific problems are:-
1) A solenoid that sticks after lack of use, such as being in storage for a few months.
2) The cable running from the junction box in to the door is too short, preventing the door from opening more than 120 degrees. This is a nuisance because the door flaps around in the wind and sometimes stretches the cable alarmingly.

I was hoping to take the door panel off to fix both problems. From what you said, I am now thinking I should just replace the solenoid. would you mind advising me of the exact part that I need please?

Regarding the cable that is too short, if I cannot get the panel off, I will just add a piece of cable somehow. The reason I wanted the panel off was to add cable on the door side as the cable from the junction box is jammed behind the door frame/bug screen.

By the way, it is good to hear from someone who has an E520 with all its little idiosyncraties! Do you have to move the chest of drawers back and forwards to open the table and make up the bed as well as us? Also, we have a huge crease in the blind above the cab because it flaps up and down when I drive with the cab windows open. Any suggestions there? I would like to fit a roller blind but I am struggling to find something suitable.

Regards,

Alastair

 

[Wagoneer]

If you want to extend the cable from the junction box, it may be easier to remove the flyscreen. This is secured by a couple of screws in the bottom runner (hidden by the brush). The flyscreen can then be raised by about 15mm where it can be released from the mushroom studs either side. This assumes the top of the flyscreen is not obstructed by any furniture above the doorway.

It obviously doesn't solve your sticking solenoid problem although excercising the solenoid (with door open ie. no load) may bring it back to life.

Re: removing the half moon shaped panel....the internal latch has a couple of plastic shims which need to be removed to enable the panel to be separated from the latch.

 

[Sheddy]

This is from my Rapido The actuator/solenoid was bought from eBay for about £6, the top adaptor for the solenoid shaft was removed and exchanged from the original solenoid. You will need to assess which wires to use depending on your setup. You may even have a completely different setup/ solenoid only when you remove the panel will you know.

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[AlastairH]

A sincere thank you to all of you guys. I am sure I can fix my problems now. Knowing where all the fixings are and how they can all be released will save me hours of fiddling about and guessing.

Alastair

 

[wolfie2]

Alastair
Good luck with the repairs....I was very lazy and didn't replace the solenoid (same issue as you)...I decided to go for manual locking only so no idea of part number!!
Regarding the table and bed issue, this is not something I have come across so I regret I cannot help on that either.
The only problem I have encountered is cold feet, during the winter, in the lounge area. I had the alde heating system in a previous caravan and it was brilliant. The current system is fine apart from cold feet....is this something you have encountered? I have been careful to load the under seat lockers in the same way as in the caravan but it makes no difference. Any solutions would be gratefully received!!
Wolfie

 

[Ingwe]

I've the same door on our Bailey 620 and similar problem with the wiring being stretched. In our case it actually snapped. As you can't access the wires within the insulation in the door, we re-wired the solenoid to the actuator and ran the new wires in the accessible part of the door where the locking mechanism.
We were cautious to ensure the new wiring didn't interfere with the mechanical action of the lock.
Wolfie2 has correctly described how to access the door workings. Exactly how we did it. Hardest part was picking out the covers to the two screws on the pull handle!
Good luck.

 

[Ingwe]

BUMP

I’ve no relevant door knowledge. Just a wiring shortcut.
If the wires are accessible at both ends can the new wires be attached to the old ones and pulled through?

Not in our case. The wires are stupidly within rigid insulation and there is no movement at all.

 

[AlastairH]

Thanks Ingwe. I have managed to release some cable from the body side to give the door enough play. I have yet to tackle the door lock solenoid - waiting for warmer weather!
What a great forum this is for sharing and solving problems.

Thanks again,
Alastair

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[Ingwe]

@AlistairH-the price of Hartal spares is horrific. I only wanted a small part of the lock assembly and was quoted £408 by Prima Leisure, the official Bailey parts supplier. You have to buy the whole lock assembly, which is nonsense.

Approach SE Hartalight 2 Point Door Lock Mechanism

www.primaleisure.com

In the event, I sourced the same parts for £195 from the linked supplier below.

<Broken link removed>

Still hugely expensive but much less than the 'official' Bailey supplier. Especially if it's only the actuator you want, you can get them for less than £10 on eBay.