External door handle (1 Viewer)

[TheBig1]

My door lock has stopped working again. This time the electric motor in the hab door does not operate when when either pressing the remote or internal lock/unlock buttons. The cab door still works though. I can still use the key and the internal handle. So it’s either a wire broken, connection dropped off or a motor failure. I’m still scared of levering off the flimsy plastic inner door to find out so unless someone has a better idea I guess I’ll go back to the dealer again

Check and see if your door has a rubber tube linking door and frame. Pop that off one end and check if a wire is off. That is the usual issue

 

[Mr Chrysalis]

Check and see if your door has a rubber tube linking door and frame. Pop that off one end and check if a wire is off. That is the usual issue

I do have a tube. I’ve not opened it yet but assumed that the cable went straight through it. I thought one of the wires in it may be broken, but are you saying there are connectors inside it?

( it’s still a bit windy to look whilst I am in this field, so I’ll look in a few days when I get home)

 

[TheBig1]

I do have a tube. I’ve not opened it yet but assumed that the cable went straight through it. I thought one of the wires in it may be broken, but are you saying there are connectors inside it?

( it’s still a bit windy to look whilst I am in this field, so I’ll look in a few days when I get home)

If there is a tube, no connectors, just 3 or 5 wires (usually 3). The idiots fit standard wire that eventually breaks when continually flexed. When I repair, I cut all 3 and add in good quality silicone wires which are super flexible. Join with more than needed and push excess into door cavity and beyond the frame. Never had one fail again after that fix

Avoid soldering if at all possible, as soldered unsupported wires will fail due to vibration and flexing at the point where the soldering ends and straight copper takes over. Soldered wires are rigid and are in effect single solid core

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[Mr Chrysalis]

If there is a tube, no connectors, just 3 or 5 wires (usually 3). The idiots fit standard wire that eventually breaks when continually flexed. When I repair, I cut all 3 and add in good quality silicone wires which are super flexible. Join with more than needed and push excess into door cavity and beyond the frame. Never had one fail again after that fix

Avoid soldering if at all possible, as soldered unsupported wires will fail due to vibration and flexing at the point where the soldering ends and straight copper takes over. Soldered wires are rigid and are in effect single solid core

I see what you mean now, thanks again

 

[Fdhadi]

Mines exactly the same Chris.
I can lock and unlock with the key no problem.

I can hear the central locking working inside the lock but it fails to lock or unlock the door so I’m sure it’s not an electrical problem, more like a component or connector broken in the lock itself.

 

[Fdhadi]

Ask Alex Stealaway to fix it for you, you won’t have the problem again.

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[Mr Chrysalis]

Mines exactly the same Chris.
I can lock and unlock with the key no problem.

I can hear the central locking working inside the lock but it fails to lock or unlock the door so I’m sure it’s not an electrical problem, more like a component or connector broken in the lock itself.

Not quite the same, mine is an electrical fault

 

[Mr Chrysalis]

Ask Alex Stealaway to fix it for you, you won’t have the problem again.

Yes he has a good solution if the mechanical part is broken, we were in contact 4 years ago when I had the problem you have now