Engine Problems Puegeot Boxer 1998cc Petrol . Reg 1999

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Tavi

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Autosleeper Talisman
Hello ..I am owner of Autosleeper Talisman Peugeot Boxer .. for about 15 years
Engine is a 1998cc petrol fuel injection with 4 lead distributor.
Problem.
Previously engine has always started and run well, no problems
However just started exhibiting an occasional sudden drop off in revs and quickly stalling completely.
It always restarts immediately but then stops again despite all attempts to use accelerator to keep going.
Yesterday , started from cold , drove for half hour but then fault returned on slow up to enter parking . Only just managed to get it into my parking area.
24 hours later , has started from cold .. no problem !
Any suggestions
Tavis
 
as a rule of thumb Fuel filter may need changing , blockage in fuel line dirt in Carb all diy repairs then fuel pump or bad fuel
 
Very long time since I ran a petrol engined vehicle without an ecu and coil pack (1993 Eunos Roaster) but if it has one didn’t the coil fail when it got hot if it was on its way out or the condenser? S’cuse if wrong as I said it’s been a while.
 
Whilst not entirely ruling out a fuel filter I do not think that it is the problem in this case as the cut off is so quick and the engine does not begin to struggle at max power when say going hard uphill. I have had a filter problem in past.
The engine does have an ECU and as Paul mentions, maybe I first try the connections and components generating the sparks.
 
I would suggest fuel to start with.
Gotta start somewhere.
Is it mechanical or electric pump?
Or as you say start with connectors on ecu .
Then check ht leeds and crown leed.
Dizzy cap off and check rotor and internal contacts in the cap.
Might be worth replacing the cap, rotor and leeds if they have been on a while.
Then make sure fuel is actually through.

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How about an in-line see through petrol filter so you can check fuel flow?
 
Think fuel ok but will bear in mind suggestions re check filter and see through version.
Will focus initially on Spark generation components and only resort to ECU connections as last resort. Difficult to get at .
 
Somewhere it will have a temp sensor for the injection module which will then control the air fuel mix, and this may be faulty. So its basically taking the choke off too early if it were a carb engine.
 
Yes sure could get at plugs but from nature of fault it appears that either all are failing to receive sparks at the same time or there is a total and sudden loss of fuel. Hence I will check for signs of problems in components and wiring associated with spark generation.

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Suggestion ... Temp sensor possible fault.
If problem here would the engine restart immediately ? Also would it run for long period and then suddenly cut out.
It starts from cold fine, it runs well even when hot. Failure seems not to be associated with engine temp.
 
No. Reading again, i doubt temp sensor as you say starts at all temps.

Does I cough, splutter or anything when it dies? Or is it like it’s turned off, like a power to it has been turned off?
 
i had the talbot petrol and mine was fine running but cut out when you tried to get away again after say a roundabout it was caused by rust in the tank i struggled with it for a while with a fuel filter added near the carb in the end i had to drop the tank and clean it out which solved ity
 
Could it be an issue with E10fuel? It doesn't like being stored for more than a week or two.
People with classic cars are using a special storage fuel.

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ambulancekidd said:
Could it be an issue with E10fuel? It doesn't like being stored for more than a week or two.
People with classic cars are using a special storage fuel.
Click to expand...
We use eye wateringly expensive super dooper high octane fuel every other tank full then E10 and an additive the other fill. Ours is a 1993 Eunos Roadster (JDM Mx5) with a 4 coil coil pack and an ecu. It has a multitude of sensors, cam angle etc etc.
 
Cam sensor, crank sensor, coil pack anything that cuts spark instantly. Easiest is obd code reading, and saving change parts that don’t need changing.
 
Had similar problem with pug partner van, was resolved in the end by changing rotation sensor on cam and flywheel. Showed no fault code because it assumed engine had stalled. Initially happen when turning left, don't know what rotation sensors are fitted to that engine. Watch rev counter when it dies, if drops straight to zero, points to rotation sensor not fuel.
 
Hi, I'm just reading the posts and would like to ask if anyone has had a similar problem.
I havea 1999 puegeot boxer petrol auto sleeper and have come across an issue, as the boxer seems to be running rich when I drive it, we have also had when driving its like I cuts out or misses for a second and then cuts back in. I've justbrought it back from the garage who thinks it's a sensor problem, when its warm it also likes to cutout and when trying to start it and I'd noticed black smoke out-of exhaust when pumping to try an start it. Does anyone have any experience of this problem.
Thanks

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Tavi said:
Hello ..I am owner of Autosleeper Talisman Peugeot Boxer .. for about 15 years
Engine is a 1998cc petrol fuel injection with 4 lead distributor.
Problem.
Previously engine has always started and run well, no problems
However just started exhibiting an occasional sudden drop off in revs and quickly stalling completely.
It always restarts immediately but then stops again despite all attempts to use accelerator to keep going.
Yesterday , started from cold , drove for half hour but then fault returned on slow up to enter parking . Only just managed to get it into my parking area.
24 hours later , has started from cold .. no problem !
Any suggestions
Tavis
Click to expand...
Hi. I read this recently. I saw a variety of suggestions given. Did you ever get to the cause?. My Peugeot Boxer 1999cc from 1996 has been cutting out just the same way. It has done this for several years. Always starters again straight away, but can cut out at any time and any place. It tends to be just as I slow to a stop, but not always. There is no pattern. It can be first thing after driving, or 2 hours into a long drive. It can drive fine for many journeys then start doing it again. Several garages have just said it isn’t worth their time to investigate and it would be expensive mechanic time with no knowing if they can find the issue. Very annoying. Let me know if you got an answer, Thanks.
 

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