Elusive fuse f26

[TheLifeofBrian]

Hi all,
Does anyone know where the fuse f26 is on a Ducato?
It's for the comfortmatic gearbox pump.
The pump isn't running when the driver's door is opened
Any help greatly appreciated.

Cheers Chris

 

[Minxy]

It could be in the fuse box under the bonnet - this is what it says in a diagram which refers to it as F05 rather than F26 so maybe it's been re-numbered?

Fuse Box Diagram Fiat Ducato (2015-2018-..)

Fuse box diagram (location and assignment of electrical fuses) for Fiat Ducato (2015, 2016, 2018, 2018-..).

fuse-box.info

 

[TheLifeofBrian]

Yes I've found that one thanks and also number 24. I'm just curious as 26 & 27 are mentioned on several forums but no-one seems to know where they are or even if they exist at all !!
On the later manual they aren't mentioned so you may be right, they might have changed them.
I'm clutching at straws really.....

 

[dunnah01]

The pump will only activate when the door is opened if there is insufficient hydraulic circuit pressure so are you sure there is a problem?

 

[Minxy]

I'm clutching at straws really.....

Very droll!

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[Minxy]

Okay, I'm bemused ... why does opening/closing a cab door affect the pump for the Comfortmatic gearbox?

 

[TheLifeofBrian]

The pump will only activate when the door is opened if there is insufficient hydraulic circuit pressure so are you sure there is a problem?

There's definitely a problem as it says 'gear not available' & won't work!
We can't hear the pump running at all.
It will go into gear without engine running but as soon as it starts it won't.

 

[TheLifeofBrian]

Okay, I'm bemused ... why does opening/closing a cab door affect the pump for the Comfortmatic gearbox?

It makes sure there is enough pressure to operate the gearbox - and put it in neutral I assume as it's supposed to be left in gear according to the manual.

 

[Minxy]

It makes sure there is enough pressure to operate the gearbox - and put it in neutral I assume as it's supposed to be left in gear according to the manual.

... but how does that work when you haven't got a driver's door?

 

[TheLifeofBrian]

... but how does that work when you haven't got a driver's door?

I've no idea! I hadn't thought of that - you mean like an A class? A left hand drive must be different as well !
Also, what happens when you've been parked up for a days & don't open driver's door but go through hab door??
I wish I could find someone who actually knows about these gearboxes!

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[dunnah01]

There's definitely a problem as it says 'gear not available' & won't work!
We can't hear the pump running at all.
It will go into gear without engine running but as soon as it starts it won't.

You need to reset the KISS point with MultiECUScan. This is achieved by performing the 'clutch self-calibration enable' after deleting all statistical data.

 

[dunnah01]

... but how does that work when you haven't got a driver's door?

It only acts as a convenience pre start top-up to hydraulic pressure on normal vans so on A-Class vans it may just take a couple of extra seconds at startup to get to pressure so no biggy

 

[TheLifeofBrian]

You need to reset the KISS point with MultiECUScan. This is achieved by performing the 'clutch self-calibration enable' after deleting all statistical data.

It had all the settings recalibrated a week ago plus fluids changed as we had the same problem a month ago so had supposedly been fixed...

 

[dunnah01]

It had all the settings recalibrated a week ago plus fluids changed as we had the same problem a month ago so had supposedly been fixed...

Did you watch them doing the settings recalibration? They would need to do a short drive during the clutch transmissibility index reset to allow the TCU to measure the torque transfer through the clutch under load. Garages will often run the recailbration on base parameters which will allow gears to be selected but doesn't reset the map for the clutch degradation and transmissibility. This means the TCU will then throw the wobbly when the same inputs are received from the clutch/gearbox sensors that originally conflicted with what the map was expecting.

 

[TheLifeofBrian]

Did you watch them doing the settings recalibration? They would need to do a short drive during the clutch transmissibility index reset to allow the TCU to measure the torque transfer through the clutch under load. Garages will often run the recailbration on base parameters which will allow gears to be selected but doesn't reset the map for the clutch degradation and transmissibility. This means the TCU will then throw the wobbly when the same inputs are received from the clutch/gearbox sensors that originally conflicted with what the map was expecting.

No I didn't, I was just told all of the settings had been reprogrammed for all the gears.
It drove perfectly for a week after but then suddenly 'crunched' when slowing down & changing from 2nd to 1st, changed up ok and moments later 'crunched' again when stopping and going into reverse. Now it just says 'gear not available' when engine running, but I can hear it go into gear with just ignition on?

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[dunnah01]

No I didn't, I was just told all of the settings had been reprogrammed for all the gears.
It drove perfectly for a week after but then suddenly 'crunched' when slowing down & changing from 2nd to 1st, changed up ok and moments later 'crunched' again when stopping and going into reverse. Now it just says 'gear not available' when engine running, but I can hear it go into gear with just ignition on?

It's difficult to know what the issue is without knowing what has been reset. The problem sounds like a clutch disengagement issue which is primarily governed by the KISS point. This willl probably have been reset as part of the garage's settings reset but it's also a function of the clutch degradation and transmissibility which may not have ben reset. There may also be a genuine mechanical problem with the clutch wear or gearbox synchros but I'd always try to rule out the electronics first.

 

[TheLifeofBrian]

It's difficult to know what the issue is without knowing what has been reset. The problem sounds like a clutch disengagement issue which is primarily governed by the KISS point. This willl probably have been reset as part of the garage's settings reset but it's also a function of the clutch degradation and transmissibility which may not have ben reset. There may also be a genuine mechanical problem with the clutch wear or gearbox synchros but I'd always try to rule out the electronics first.

Thanks for your suggestions. Pm sent.

 

[TheLifeofBrian]

It's difficult to know what the issue is without knowing what has been reset. The problem sounds like a clutch disengagement issue which is primarily governed by the KISS point. This willl probably have been reset as part of the garage's settings reset but it's also a function of the clutch degradation and transmissibility which may not have ben reset. There may also be a genuine mechanical problem with the clutch wear or gearbox synchros but I'd always try to rule out the electronics first.

Do you know what this wire does? It's a red one just under a large connector above the gearbox behind the offside headlight.
I cleaned the contact where it connects & lo & behold IT WORKS

 

[dunnah01]

Do you know what this wire does? It's a red one just under a large connector above the gearbox behind the offside headlight.
I cleaned the contact where it connects & lo & behold IT WORKS
View attachment 687626View attachment 687627

Glad it's working. Not sure what the wire is tbh, the multiplug above it looks like the Comfortmatic plug so maybe jiggling the wires around there improved the contact in the multiplug aswell

 

[TheLifeofBrian]

Thanks, I'm going to get the codes read again & unplug the wire to see if we get the same fault as before. Also I'll get the plug & connectors cleaned. I'm just waiting to see if the pump runs now when I open the driver's door!

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