Electrolux 275 - 3 way fridge on Gas in 1993 Hymer (1 Viewer)

jo10000_6

Free Member
Dec 21, 2017
249
137
South Yorkshire
Funster No
51,697
MH
Hymer B544 Classic
Exp
Jan 2018
Hi

The above fridge has been fine on gas since a recent service.

Went to use it last week and no light on the ignition switch.

12v on travelling all ok and through googling found out this runs indepently and this lights up no problem.

Checked the fuses in the main fuse holder for this model (at the front drivers left leg) all good.

Googling suggests could be lighter module ?

Looked throught the instructions but no tips there.

I'd hoped it had batteries like the fire ones I'd just changed but think it's linked to the leisure battery.

I can't say whether I'm still getting gas as Ive not been in a position to have someone hold the gas button in whilst I had the vents off.

I've a feeling it's electrical and on occasion have had to tap the 12v switch on ignition to light.

I've turned off the 12v system and took the top panel off - is there anyway simple way I can test if the lighter module is faulty ?

Also any other suggestions for the light not coming on the ignition switch.

I think I jinxed myself when I smugly thought all was working and everything on my fix list I'd done or had done ! :rolleyes:

Thanks Jo
 
Apr 27, 2016
6,928
8,090
Manchester
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42,762
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A class Hymer
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Since the 80s
There's a very limited number of things that can be wrong. The switch, the ignitor, the wiring, and possible a fuse. In my experience, 90% of electrical problems in a MH are bad connections.

There was a recent thread in the Fridges and Ovens section which has some more (probably too much) information. I'd check the wiring, then the switch, but the ignitor modules do eventually fail so it could possibly be that.
https://www.motorhomefun.co.uk/forum/threads/wiring-of-master-switch-for-gas-fridge.197555/
 
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Apr 27, 2016
6,928
8,090
Manchester
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MH
A class Hymer
Exp
Since the 80s
I can't say whether I'm still getting gas as Ive not been in a position to have someone hold the gas button in whilst I had the vents off.
It should still spark even if there is no gas at all. You can listen for the click click click, and see the switch light flash in time with it.
 
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jo10000_6

jo10000_6

Free Member
Dec 21, 2017
249
137
South Yorkshire
Funster No
51,697
MH
Hymer B544 Classic
Exp
Jan 2018
Do agree @Spriddler but 12v running on engine is still lit and if I could chose one to play up it would be that one.

Thanks for reply (y)

Thanks @autorouter - will read - I’m hopeful it’s the switch - £20 ish.

Thanks guys

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Dec 24, 2014
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48,048
Hurstpierpoint. Mid Sussex.
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34,553
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Compass Navigator
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Ever since lighting was by Calor gas.
Do agree @Spriddler but 12v running on engine is still lit and if I could chose one to play up it would be that one.
Not quite sure whether I'm interpreting your comment correctly but the 12v cooling system and electrical wiring circuit that operates it when the engine is running is totally separate from and plays no part in the gas igniter system. I suspect that the igniter switch is faulty/failing or has one or more corroded/loose connection, especially since you have in the past had to tap it to get it to work.
 
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Apr 27, 2016
6,928
8,090
Manchester
Funster No
42,762
MH
A class Hymer
Exp
Since the 80s
As long as I turn the 12v off nothing to get me is there ? :eek:
If you're doing resistance tests, the item you are testing needs to be unpowered.

And afterwards, switch the meter to volts if it's one of those with a separate on-off switch. It's easy to overlook the meter setting when you pick it up again in a few weeks to check a voltage.
 
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jo10000_6

jo10000_6

Free Member
Dec 21, 2017
249
137
South Yorkshire
Funster No
51,697
MH
Hymer B544 Classic
Exp
Jan 2018
Not quite sure whether I'm interpreting your comment correctly but the 12v cooling system and electrical wiring circuit that operates it when the engine is running is totally separate from and plays no part in the gas igniter system. I suspect that the igniter switch is faulty/failing or has one or more corroded/loose connection, especially since you have in the past had to tap it to get it to work.



It’s the 12v connection to engine I occasionally tap but accept possibly poor connection there. The gas ignitor never had to tap - just died.

Thanks, Spriddler appreciate the input.

I do have a guy who I’m going to ring to look at - but I’m keen to understand as much as I can myself.
 
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