Door/locker retaining catches - help please. (1 Viewer)

[BossyBus]

The plastic retainers had worn so I drilled out the rivets, leaned the area, revealed and put new plastic retainers on. I bought two packs of self tapping screws (4.2 x 25mm and 4.8 x 19mm). None of the screws will tighten so I am now left with retaining clips that won’t even retain themselves! I have tried bigger screws but none of them screw tight. any advice gratefully received. Thanks

 

[Minxy]

The plastic retainers had worn so I drilled out the rivets, leaned the area, revealed and put new plastic retainers on. I bought two packs of self tapping screws (4.2 x 25mm and 4.8 x 19mm). None of the screws will tighten so I am now left with retaining clips that won’t even retain themselves! I have tried bigger screws but none of them screw tight. any advice gratefully received. Thanks

You could try putting some Sikaflex into the screw holes and behind the clips then putting in the screws and securing it with tape until the Sikaflex sets.

Do you have any pictures of the offending 'holes', latches etc?

 

[BossyBus]

I don’t think that’ll work as it won’t be a strong enough hold. The clip which holds the hab door back needs a serious yank to unclip it and I think it’ll just fall off! Maybe I’ll have to buy a rivet gun and put rivets back in but that gets expensive!

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[XxAnthxX]

Large rivets would appear to be the answer.......can you not borrow a rivet gun.

Failing that just buy a cheap and nasty one....just for the 8 rivets you need.

Rolson 44409 Four Head Rivet Gun Amazon product ASIN B001TOI666

 

[PeteH]

I have successfully used Plasterboard anchors on an R-V before today. But it requires a leap of faith and larger holes. Supergluing rawlplug type anchors into panelling can also be successful? Gorilla Glue on the back of the Clip and then screws might succeed. but don`t be wanting to take them off any time soon!.

 

[Minxy]

I don’t think that’ll work as it won’t be a strong enough hold. The clip which holds the hab door back needs a serious yank to unclip it and I think it’ll just fall off! Maybe I’ll have to buy a rivet gun and put rivets back in but that gets expensive!

Have you ever tried removing anything that's been Sikaflexed? Even the Terminator would have difficulty!

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[BossyBus]

I have managed to find a neighbour who can lend me a rivet gun so I’ll go and get some larger rivets tomorrow and have a go. I think I’d be a wreck trying the plasterboard anchors and superglue!! It’s quite tricky to fiddle with the retainers and not damage the paintwork. Thanks for all your suggestions

 

[Gromett]

I would try rivnuts myself rather than rivets.

Rivnut tool is not dirt cheap but so useful, if you do a bit of DIY and maintenance it is worth having one in your kit. This is the one I bought and found it to be excellent.

Sealey AK3984 Short-Arm Threaded Nut Riveter, Red, 3.5 x 13 x 31 cm: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

Free delivery and returns on all eligible orders. Shop Sealey AK3984 Short-Arm Threaded Nut Riveter, Red, 3.5 x 13 x 31 cm.

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Also got this kit.

Zinc Plated Carbon Steel Rivet Nut Insert Nutsert M4 M5 M6 M8 M10, 120 Pieces : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

Free delivery and returns on all eligible orders. Shop Zinc Plated Carbon Steel Rivet Nut Insert Nutsert M4 M5 M6 mate M10, 120 Pieces.

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[BossyBus]

Thanks Gromett. If I thought I would use one then I’d get it but I just have 6 holes to rivet this time. I used to do loads of diy but since I’ve retired not so much. Perhaps I’ll get one on my Christmas list thanks for responding.

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[Two on Tour]

I would go with rivnuts as they have a much larger grip area than rivets and would be a much better option on the thin outer skin of MH's

 

[Vic. Parsons.]

You would be better off getting rid of the useless plastic catches (which will need replacing again) and replace them with stainless steel T catches with stainless screws or rivets to fit them, along with sikaflex in the holes to seal it all.
If you rivet them, use the peel back type rivet for thin plastic like on the locker door.

The new T catches would have a footprint that would completely cover the original holes, so they can be sealed up with sikaflex.

These are really nice quality with rubber rather than plastic backing pieces.

As you can see, they're really expensive.....

I have fitted these on my Hymer and can highly recommend them.

 

[Vic. Parsons.]

You would be better off getting rid of the useless plastic catches (which will need replacing again) and replace them with stainless steel T catches with stainless screws or rivets to fit them, along with sikaflex in the holes to seal it all.
If you rivet them, use the peel back type rivet for thin plastic like on the locker door.

The new T catches would have a footprint that would completely cover the original holes, so they can be sealed up with sikaflex.

These are really nice quality with rubber rather than plastic backing pieces.

View attachment 426698

As you can see, they're really expensive.....

I have fitted these on my Hymer and can highly recommend them.

I just noticed, the "medium duty retainer 11" is the long version, there is a shorter one:

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[BossyBus]

Thanks for this. how does the t bar connect with the retainer when you open the door?

 

[Vic. Parsons.]

Thanks for this. how does the t bar connect with the retainer when you open the door?

Like this on our gas locker door:
In this case the T goes in the slot and down making the door very secure.

I changed the original plastic one for this because i got fed up with being hit on the head by a heavy door.

 

[Vic. Parsons.]

This is the one on our hab door: (the T faces to the rear of the van when idle)
We decided to leave the original plastic one for those less windy days so we have the option.
Many motorhomes have pull across fly screens and if the door slams shut, it can cause a lot of damage to the screen when the door inner hits it.
The door is going nowhere when the T catch is on.

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[Minxy]

I'm gonna get one of those catches for my hab door as using a bungie/strap is just too 'uncouth' for such a 'high class' MH! It only has a telescopic strut which is useless when there's a bit of a breeze ... I like my dog in once piece rather than chopped in half by the door!

 

[Vic. Parsons.]

I'm gonna get one of those catches for my hab door as using a bungie/strap is just too 'uncouth' for such a 'high class' MH! It only has a telescopic strut which is useless when there's a bit of a breeze ... I like my dog in once piece rather than chopped in half by the door!

We don't have a pull across fly screen on our hab door, but like you, we have a dog that likes to peer out the door........she likes being nosey. So the catch means she won't end up with a broken nose or worse.
Once you have one, you'll wonder why they are not fitted as standard on all motorhomes.

 

[Gromett]

Thanks Gromett. If I thought I would use one then I’d get it but I just have 6 holes to rivet this time. I used to do loads of diy but since I’ve retired not so much. Perhaps I’ll get one on my Christmas list thanks for responding.

If you are near lincolnshire you can borrow mine if you want.

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[BossyBus]

Thanks , Im on the south coast so bit of a hike to get to you! I have managed to rivet 4 of the 6 that needed doing. The clip on the side of the van that holds the hab door is a screw fitting. The one I can’t figure out how to do is the one above the gas locker as I cannot get the nozzle of the rivet gun flush against the rivet head so back to the drawing board on how to fix that one! I may have to go to the t- bar route

 

[BossyBus]

Like this on our gas locker door:
In this case the T goes in the slot and down making the door very secure.

View attachment 426741


View attachment 426742

I changed the original plastic one for this because i got fed up with being hit on the head by a heavy door.

So does the t- bar just use self tapping screws? Do they come with the t bar?

 

[Vic. Parsons.]

So does the t- bar just use self tapping screws? Do they come with the t bar?

No screws are supplied with the catches, you'll need to buy some dome headed stainless screws. Because it's being screwed into aluminium, you either need to drill the right size hole for normal stainless screws or use stainless posi drive self drilling and self tapping screws like these:

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[BossyBus]

Thanks. V helpful

 

[Minxy]

Thanks , Im on the south coast so bit of a hike to get to you! I have managed to rivet 4 of the 6 that needed doing. The clip on the side of the van that holds the hab door is a screw fitting. The one I can’t figure out how to do is the one above the gas locker as I cannot get the nozzle of the rivet gun flush against the rivet head so back to the drawing board on how to fix that one! I may have to go to the t- bar route

As that one isn't really going to take any real weight/force then my suggestion for Sikaflex and screws would suffice I think, if the catch is too tight then just file it a little bit.

 

[BossyBus]

Thanks. It’s not the weight but the amount of force to pull the clips apart that I worry about but I’ll have a go with sikaflex and screws and take a closer look next season if it’s a problem! At the moment it’s just two holes

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