Dampness project - Floor now (1 Viewer)

[Lenny HB]

Out of the frying pan into the fire with your, good luck it should be a nice solid van when you have finished.

Thanks 68c for your detailed advice. Have had a look at boat building this morning and think the West system epoxy fits the bill nicely. Will go for the longer working time 105 + 206 mix with filler as needed. I will make a lap joint on the lengths and butt up against the widths and coat with epoxy during and after completion.
My Bessie still has the original ply covered with the vinyl sheet acrosss the rest of the flooring, would it be worth removing all of this and epoxying the whole floor before painting? I really doubt that the ply is marine grade when built in 2006.
Thoughts?

When I replaced an internal wall on a caravan I used the West System expensive but worth it. When gluing the rear wall make sure you support the outside as well. The first part of the wall I did on the caravan had a slight curve in it because I only supported the inside. For the rest of the wall I used timber bracing on the outside against my garage wall.

 

[DJL220]

Out of the frying pan into the fire with your, good luck it should be a nice solid van when you have finished.

When I replaced an internal wall on a caravan I used the West System expensive but worth it. When gluing the rear wall make sure you support the outside as well. The first part of the wall I did on the caravan had a slight curve in it because I only supported the inside. For the rest of the wall I used timber bracing on the outside against my garage wall.

Fingers crossed, hopefully a few days without any other issues

 

[68c]

Sorry, I assumed that was a vinyl floor covering. Neither of my vans had any special layer over the plywood on the underside of the floor, it is more like a black tar paint. I just sprayed the underside of the repairs with black car underseal, it was black and made a good match to the existing seal.

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[68c]

Out of the frying pan into the fire with your, good luck it should be a nice solid van when you have finished.

When I replaced an internal wall on a caravan I used the West System expensive but worth it. When gluing the rear wall make sure you support the outside as well. The first part of the wall I did on the caravan had a slight curve in it because I only supported the inside. For the rest of the wall I used timber bracing on the outside against my garage wall.

I made a frame around the van rather like a giant g clamp, a timber frame that fitted loosely round the van with another length of timber pushed against the side of the van with long bolts as jack screws. I have seen photos of folk parking the van next to the house wall and using horizontal pit props against a sheet of plywood like Lenny HB suggests. I seem to remember reading about professional repairers using a blow up bag between the wall and the van.

 

[DJL220]

So after what can only be described as days worth forgetting I have made some templates for the fix on Bessie. It would appear that everything I touched either went wrong or broke over the past few days

Anyway made some progress this evening and look forward to the weekend to crack on.

These have arrived today, which should help mend things.

After many days of pondering I have decided not to use three bits of timber as per the original build and have settled for the following.
Single piece of treated timber for the side piece.

Will make the side support tomorrow and mount that to the side and foam of the floor. This should bring back some support for the MH. Will use the West system with the slow cure for this purpose, fingers crossed I have enough time and clamps to support whilst curing. Should be able to use the underneath of the frame and some off cuts of timber to clamp whilst the West system cures overnight.

Still not sure on the plywood for underneath, marine ply, buffalo board or just plain old ply. Either way I will coat the end grain with epoxy and if using standard ply will coat this too.

Plan of attack is:- mount side support, bond on ply underneath, bond in ply for wall panels and then final mount internal floor. This should give me a solid structure to mount the side skirts.
Due to the forecast Bessie currently looks like this to protect from the storm which is coming tonight/ tomorrow

 

[68c]

Sounds like a good plan. The single piece of timber makes sense. Remember you are doing a repair, not trying to build a whole motorhome on a tight budget. That area of the van will better than new.

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[DJL220]

Quick questions: -
Is it worth putting a DPC in between the outer skin and the insulation, running it on top of the skirt bracket. This would sandwich the floor and skirt bracket.
My thoughts would be it would shield the bottom of the wood (best case) or create a moisture trap (worse case).

Anyone else used DPC on a repair?

 

[Lenny HB]

With the West system mix it in shallow trays, if you mix a load in a pot it goes off twice as fast, you can guess how I found out.

 

[DuxDeluxe]

With the West system mix it in shallow trays, if you mix a load in a pot it goes off twice as fast, you can guess how I found out.

Yes - a tough and rather smoky lesson.....

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[DJL220]

Quick update on progress: -

It appears that the issue is worse than I thought!
Front front end to rear wheel arch is all rotten and needs replacing. Had to take the rear wheel arch off today to gain access to more rotten wood.

The good news is that the Alko chassis has four supports which is good but also a pain. I was planning one piece of timber but without remove the whole of the side I will not get this to fit. Will need to join a piece on the support bar (in the middle).

Inside is all prepared and ready for the side support beams. Once I have these cut I will bond them to the side panel and foam part of the floor. Once dry I will then bond the new ply floor and walls inside. Then I will have the chance to sort the underneath and replace the ply.

Test fitting the new support beam in the picture below. Just need to take a small fillet out so the floor will sit flush and the wall can bond to the support.

Does anyone know where I can source the following items: -

1) rear wheel arch rubber (small "U" shape piece in white)
2) the supports for the wheel arch, mine are beyond use! (See below)

As with every job I have started on the MH is has grown in to a massive project

 

[TheBig1]

https://www.sealsdirect.co.uk/ these guys will have the trim, but the wheelarch supports if metal will likely need fabricating

 

[The Coops]

Brilliant and well done but I think out of the frying pan and into the **** might have been considered, It would have been a shame if it caught fire when doing the repairs .........................only saying...................... not advocating ..

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[DJL220]

https://www.sealsdirect.co.uk/ these guys will have the trim, but the wheelarch supports if metal will likely need fabricating

Thanks TheBig1 I will email sealsdirect as I couldn't see anything on their like the ones I have taken off.
I have something in mind for the metal brackets if unable to source direct replacements

 

[TheBig1]

Thanks TheBig1 I will email sealsdirect as I couldn't see anything on their like the ones I have taken off.
I have something in mind for the metal brackets if unable to source direct replacements

I know what I would adapt, old fashioned galvanised steel gutter brackets cut and bent to suit. Should last longer than then originals. Remember to seal cut ends and cut outside to avoid fumes if using a grinder

 

[Two on Tour]

If your looking for seal and rubber sections then Baines Rubber have a massive selection.

https://coh-baines.co.uk/

Here's their on-line catalogue.

<Broken link removed>

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[steve 6644]

Well I've just read both threads on this saga, my god what an absolute bugger. 10/10 for the work so far and the dogged determination DLJ220 you have created a valuable resource here mate, I sincerely hope you have now found all the faults, unbelieveable!!
I think you should write to swift and point them to these threads, you never know, they may show some compassion and geve you some help with parts or something.
They could certainly do with some good press!

 

[DJL220]

Well I've just read both threads on this saga, my god what an absolute bugger. 10/10 for the work so far and the dogged determination DLJ220 you have created a valuable resource here mate, I sincerely hope you have now found all the faults, unbelieveable!!
I think you should write to swift and point them to these threads, you never know, they may show some compassion and geve you some help with parts or something.
They could certainly do with some good press!

Cheers Steve
There is one other large job to do, that can wait for another day though! It's the floor under the water tank. I think this will be a small job compared with the current challenge. Also noted the rear shocks need doing. By the time I'm finished I will never want to sell her
As for Swift they should have done a recall years ago, as she is now 14 years old I'm certain Swift won't care too much

 

[Cush]

As with others that have tackled similar jobs, the only word in have for you all is inspirational! I have a 2003 AT with some serious long-term for around a side locker and above the gas locked on the otherwise. Had the van a year and never showed up on inspection . dreading the exploratory investigation but you all give courage. Thank you.

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[DJL220]

As with others that have tackled similar jobs, the only word in have for you all is inspirational! I have a 2003 AT with some serious long-term for around a side locker and above the gas locked on the otherwise. Had the van a year and never showed up on inspection . dreading the exploratory investigation but you all give courage. Thank you.

Hi Cush
It's just a matter of taking your time and ensuring you support and clamp the areas well. I had a similar experience to you with our MH, I tested for dampness before I brought her. I didn't notice any and it didn't show up until after we had brought her and left her in the storage yard. A quote for £10k + to repair her spurred me into action!

 

[DJL220]

Testing and experimenting with outside supports last night (gotta love these forums as always someone else has done this before you!). Thanks Lenny HB & 68c

Will need more wood to make a top and middle support, however the basic idea works nicely.

Once she was supported I measured and cut the internal floor/wall piece and test fitted. This worked nicely.

You can just see how I rebated the internal piece of support wood to ensure the wall and floor sit level. Once tested I ripped it al apart and treat the ply and support timber with two coats of sealer.
Just need to cut the other two support beams, test fit, cut the ply, seal, prepare the underneath, remove the inner wheel arch and bond it all together

If anyone knows where I can buy some new skirt end plastics panels cheaper than £50 for a LH/RH then please let me know. I could really do with replacing 20 but can't justify £500 for small bits of plastic! Might have to resort to priming and spraying them.

 

[Riverbankannie]

Saw this on Facebook yesterday, a 2 year old Chausson
For those who don’t do Facebook it says “Hard at work rebuilding a rotten 2 year old Chausson motorhome, complete rear end and front top corner!!”

I do hope that it is under warranty for the owner.

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[Ian Bosman]

I use Rustins Matt Black for the underside of my Hymer.
It appears to be a close match to the original paint and certainly weathers well. Looks nasty, is it possible to cut back to the nearest underfloor supports in all directions and drop a piece of similar thick ness into the hole? Ensure that the underside is well treated before fixing in place.

Good luck with the repairs

 

[Mark740]

Great read, keep up the good work. I have some minor repairs in the same areas to complete too.

It was very good to see your section drawing showing the layers....mine is slightly different though. I will be reading this closely.

The plastic clips will surely be on sale somewhere for a sensible price...it is just a matter of finding who manufacturers them.

Keep going and take care.

Mark

 

[Mark740]

Also something that may be of interest is tricoya MDF...yes MDF . I first see this product on a YouTube video and was amazed at its durability. It is expensive but even submerged untreated in water it remains dimensionality exactly as it is produced.

Tricoya | The leader in modified wood timber technology

tricoya.com

Eye wateringly expensive but looks idea.

Mark

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[McLouis]

Out of the frying pan into the fire with your, good luck it should be a nice solid van when you have finished.

When I replaced an internal wall on a caravan I used the West System expensive but worth it. When gluing the rear wall make sure you support the outside as well. The first part of the wall I did on the caravan had a slight curve in it because I only supported the inside. For the rest of the wall I used timber bracing on the outside against my garage wall.

I would go with the West system, epoxy over marine ply, used this with Gabon ply on my sailing dinghy.

 

[DJL220]

Rain Stopped Play - Well Beer Too

Quick update as the project is moving along nicely. The internal floor and walls are cut and test fitted up to the bathroom. The floor/wall supports are cut with only 1 more to finish that part off.

Test fitting with 1mm spacers

Checking the outside is still square - looks good to me

Final check of dimensions underneath and again all appears well

Need to secure the wall supports to the outer wall and inner floor. This is a weekend job and then comes the task of removing the final rotten underfloor boards.

Pleased to report that the inside no longer smells damp and actually smells fresh

I can see light at the end of another Bessie project.

 

[TheBig1]

I can see light at the end of another Bessie project.

if you can still see light, you missed a bit

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[DJL220]

if you can still see light, you missed a bit

Damn I didn't think of that must check my work more carefully!

 

[Gromett]

I really want to thank you for sharing this with us. It is fascinating and interesting. Thanks DJL220

 

[Mark740]

I don't want to hijack your thread but thought this may be useful for anyone attempting the same thing, or trying to identify their problem.

My van has a slightly different lower construction to yours, I put this diagram together to show the make up. After looking at my issues, it is clear than the mastic seal has failed, this allows water to pass through down the side of the van. is collects on the bottom edge. This perpetually happening causes the damage, it also allows the water to eventually soak up into the floor timbers. Again a slightly different issue to yours but the result could potentially be the same.

This is a good thread that people with similar issues will find it through the search.

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