B2B query....shock horror!?

exupmonkey

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Just looking to run this by the brains trust as my brain wont cope! I've just fitted a Sterling BB1260 B2B charger to my camper (Euro 6 engine Peugeot Boxer). As far as I'm aware I've followed the install instructions supplied by Sterling to the letter, using 25mm² cable, 80 amp inline fuses on the input and output positives, common earths, temp monitor fitted etc. The units settings have not been customised, still factory, and it is set for a sealed battery setting. Fired up the van following all this and all looks great, input voltage around 14.2 amp, output showing 14.6 amp, no warning lights or temp increase on any of the cables or the batteries, all good methinks. Next day I go back into the van and I notice that the B2B's light's were illuminated! Quick check with the test meter shows an input of 13.6 and an output of 14.2. I wasn't expecting this as the ignition was off. Sat pondering this in the bright sunshine for a while and I then saw the B2B shut down, this corresponded with the arrival of a big cloud. Waited for a bit longer, cloud goes and the unit restarts, this is repeated throughout the afternoon. So, I'm thinking that the solar panels are supplying to the leisure batteries as usual, but as they are fully charges the inbuilt split charger system switches the solar power to the starter battery at which point the B2B detects a voltage greater than the threshold required to fire up, so it fires up! does this sound about right, and if so, is it acceptable? I'm hoping it is as I quite like the idea of the B2B supplying more power even when the engine is off. Sorry for the long winded nature of the post! PS...I'm summoning up the courage to run this by Mr Sterling but as you know he doesn't seem to tolerate idiots well!?
 
have you got a battery master fitted or which solar controller?
 
have you got a battery master fitted or which solar controller?
No battery master but its got a PV Logic solar controller fitted I think, but I'm unsure of the model, its pretty inaccessible.
 
Never wired one but guessing that it has a D+ connection on the B2B so I would be looking to put a voltmeter onto that junction and if it is showing a voltage I would guess that you have a voltage sensing relay that has sensed and and sent the signal.

Only a guess though.

Martin

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They can be set up so they only work when the engine is running. The default setting is automatic and it will be triggered by voltage on the cab battery.

But what is going on won't really damage anything but you might want to get it sorted. It only takes a (thin) wire from the B2B to something live when the engine is running.
 
Why would you want the B2B to run off solar when the leisure battery is already fully charged.

You may have created a loop so that everything is charging everything else. I much prefer to to use the D+ signal to turn on the B2B instead of voltage sensing, that way it can only run when the alternator is charging which is what it is supposed to happen.

You then need to make sure that the original system is not linking the leisure and engine batteries when the engine is running. This will create a loop with the B2B charging both leisure battery and feeding back to the engine battery, effectively powering itself. If this happens you lose the benefit of the batteries being separately monitored and charged.
 
The Stirling battery to battery will always run in default mode ie by sensing voltage whether or not you have chosen to use the ignition or engine run terminal to switch it..
I'm certain that if you check the instructions it will explain that.. I thought it odd but I believe it gives a brief explanation as to why they have done it that way..
So what is happening with yours is normal if there is a charging source from leisure to start battery that is active..
Andy
Should have added

It is possible to customise the threshold voltages to suit so that it doesn't happen
 
Mine does the same, I think it’s normal to run like that.

Seemed a bit strange at first but works fine.
 
Morning all. Thanks very much for taking the time to reply, some useful points to think about. I think I'm quite happy that the current set up isn't causing any harm (thanks DBK, Spanner and AMK for some peace of mind) so I might just leave as is and monitor it. Alternately, I have a switched 12v feed free on my utilities fuse box which would be real easy to wire into the B2B, although its not an ignition feed I always manually switch it on before driving as it powers my rear view camera, I'm thinking that the B2B wont really care if it's an ignition generated feed or a manually generated feed, 12v is 12v right? Thanks again?
 
I'm thinking that the B2B wont really care if it's an ignition generated feed or a manually generated feed, 12v is 12v right?
I think you are right it wouldn't know the difference ? , but why would you do that??
If my comments in my first post are correct that feed for the ignition does not stop the unit operating in the default mode..ie voltage sensing.. It would continue to work as it is now.. Adding a feed there is to stop the unit switching off if you have a euro 6 type engine with a smart alternator..
That's what I seem to remember anyway ..I've not got my instructions handy to check..
Andy.
 
Morning as I read the instructions on a sterling bb1260 I thorough that activation mode 2 on sheetis that it is the same as mode 1 but has to have ignition input live feed or unit goes into standby and not charging this was on update sheet software version 55+
 
I think you are right it wouldn't know the difference ? , but why would you do that??
If my comments in my first post are correct that feed for the ignition does not stop the unit operating in the default mode..ie voltage sensing.. It would continue to work as it is now.. Adding a feed there is to stop the unit switching off if you have a euro 6 type engine with a smart alternator..
That's what I seem to remember anyway ..I've not got my instructions handy to check..
Andy.
20200513_114112.jpg
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I would be reconfiguring the B2B to this setting, setting 2 on the most recent installation instructions. My reading of it is that the unit with initiate unless there is BOTH an input voltage greater than 13.6v and a live (ignition) feed. My thinking being that when I switch of the 12v feed there will be no chance of a solar panel related reactivation. Or am I an idiot (high probability)?
 
View attachment 387610.
I would be reconfiguring the B2B to this setting, setting 2 on the most recent installation instructions. My reading of it is that the unit with initiate unless there is BOTH an input voltage greater than 13.6v and a live (ignition) feed. My thinking being that when I switch of the 12v feed there will be no chance of a solar panel related reactivation. Or am I an idiot (high probability)?
If it still needs the voltage trigger it will be no use with a smart alternator.

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View attachment 387610.
I would be reconfiguring the B2B to this setting, setting 2 on the most recent installation instructions. My reading of it is that the unit with initiate unless there is BOTH an input voltage greater than 13.6v and a live (ignition) feed. My thinking being that when I switch of the 12v feed there will be no chance of a solar panel related reactivation. Or am I an idiot (high probability)?
That I don't think is the case with mine..
Ie it doesn't need both voltage and ignition feed to be present to switch on..
The unit is activated by a signal greater than 4v on the provided ignition terminal..and if that's present is capable if running the start battery down to around 10 voltst before switching off...
But if that ignition feed isn't present it will still operate on its default mode..
Ie voltage sensitive..
I'll try and find the instructions for mine?
Andy
 
The Stirling battery to battery will always run in default mode ie by sensing voltage whether or not you have chosen to use the ignition or engine run terminal to switch it
You are right in that the B2B will only charge the leisure battery if the input voltage is above the threshold voltage (usually 13.6V but adjustable). However in mode 2 (ignition mode with timer) it will not switch on the output unless the ignition feed is live. This function is exactly what the OP can use to stop the charging if the starter battery voltage goes above the threshold when the engine is not running.

Edit - just seen your new post. I think the older B2Bs function as you say, with no voltage threshold in that mode. However the later ones don't. I suppose the voltage threshold is adjustable so the newer ones could be made to function like that if you want.
 
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Andy63, very interesting that, thanks mate. My unit has the very latest software installed, the instructions I'm following are pertinent to that, I think that may difference between your understanding and mine on the mode 2 setting. I think I will wire it up as per my post this morning and see how it goes??
 
This function is exactly what the OP can use to stop the charging if the starter battery voltage goes above the threshold when the engine is not running.
That seems to be the case with the latest software but as you have seen not with mine..
The danger of putting it on a manual switch rather than ignition or run signal is you could flatten your start battery..
Andy

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That seems to be the case with the latest software but as you have seen not with mine..
The danger of putting it on a manual switch rather than ignition or run signal is you could flatten your start battery..
Andy
I am thinking that if I forgot to switch off then the B2B would continue until the voltage drops below the input threshold at which point it would go into standby, which is where I find myself just now. The switched live would prevent an unwanted solar activation which is what I'm trying to avoid now. I know it sounds a bit lazy not to use an ignition feed but to be honest it would be so much easier for me to use the fuse box supply just now. I can always change that around later if needs be.
 
If you can find the ignition triggered 12 volt feed to the fridge this would be suitable. There may be a permanent 12 volt feed to the fridge but you want the one used to run the fridge on 12 volts while driving.
 
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I am thinking that if I forgot to switch off then the B2B would continue until the voltage drops below the input threshold at which point it would go into standby, which is where I find myself just now. The switched live would prevent an unwanted solar activation which is what I'm trying to avoid now. I know it sounds a bit lazy not to use an ignition feed but to be honest it would be so much easier for me to use the fuse box supply just now. I can always change that around later if needs be.
That seems to be the case with yours and to be honest thought and wanted mine to work like that.. I got a bit of a surprise when I found it worked without the engine run signal been present..
Andy
 
Well, 12v wire fitted and I can happily report that the van has yet to go up in a blue flash!?. All good and I'm chuffed.
Thanks again for your time on this.
Andy
 

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