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If they are not lithium batteries, the usual rule for maximum amps is Battery Capacity/5, so your 220Ah lot can take 220/5 = 44 amps.hi all just trying to work out which b2b charger i will need ,there seems to be diffrent ones. victron do one but which amp one will i need to charge 2 x 110 ah batterys from main starter battery.thanks .i have a 90 ah as main starter battery ...thanks again ,
Take a look at the Victron video I have an IR temp reader might pay to check at Lincoln this weekend.It’s an interesting question. Judging by the Bluetooth stats I get 80A delivered to the lithium batteries with the motor running. Whilst on EHU or with the Gennie running I get 60A from the mains charger. Both seems to be working very well with just over 400A of lithium batteries.
I went for the ‘drop into existing set up’ approach when installing the lithium batteries, so I have not bothered looking at what is delivering the 80A with the motor running. Is the alternator up to delivering that (?)…. again no idea, but it’s working at the moment.
Steve and Denise . Did your supplier suggest why the alternator would overheat on your existing circuit? If you have one 30a B2B and lose say 10-12A for the fridge whilst driving, it doesn't leave a lot leftover to re charge your Lithium, I'm just wondering for myself whether I can safely add another 30A B2B i.e 60A total without troubling the Alternator.I have recently had this very conversation with a battery supplier after ordering a 300ah lithium, at the moment the std charging system will deliver 50ah to our leisure batteries via 16mm sq cable according to the display but the supplier suggests a 30ah B2B as not to overheat the 150amp alternator.
My last B2B was a sterling 45amp and I had no problems but that was on lead acid 330ah
It’s an interesting question. Judging by the Bluetooth stats I get 80A delivered to the lithium batteries with the motor running.
He said the lithium will take what it can if unregulated as I say 16sq mm cable fused at 50amp I think the fridge on auto takes its feed from the engine battery when the engine is running so would leave a full 30amp charge but I may get corrected still exploring optionsSteve and Denise . Did your supplier suggest why the alternator would overheat on your existing circuit? If you have one 30a B2B and lose say 10-12A for the fridge whilst driving, it doesn't leave a lot leftover to re charge your Lithium, I'm just wondering for myself whether I can safely add another 30A B2B i.e 60A total without troubling the Alternator.
I would agree with you possibly ott for 190ah LAI have 2 * 95Ah batteries and fitted a Sterling 60A B2B. Knowing what I do now a 30A model might have been a wiser choice but its been in nearly three years now and nothing has blown up yet.
A good video (to a point) but it just sounds like they are pushing various Victron supplied products to solve the ‘problem’.Take a look at the Victron video I have an IR temp reader might pay to check at Lincoln this weekend.
But the actual ah the battery charges at will be less due to energy conversion perhaps as much as 50%It really depends on how quickly you want to recharge. A 30A B2B will provide 30Ah if the engine is run for 1 hour, a 50A one will provide 50Ah. So you need to decide based on how much driving you do and how often against how much you use the LB. The starter battery size is irrelevant.
Also you need to look at the wiring in your system to decide if that needs replacing with bigger wires.
Yes I should have said that is the theoretical maximum rate but in reality it will be less. Lead acid can't take as fast a charge as lithium for example - one of the advantages of lithium. It also depends on the state of charge of the battery, a nearly full LA will also take less than a lithium at the equivalent state of charge.But the actual ah the battery charges at will be less due to energy conversion perhaps as much as 50%
Cheers James
Actually the amps and hours when charging and discharging are about the same, even though the 'round trip' of fully charging and discharging is only about 70 to 80% efficient. Lead-acid batteries charge at about 14.5V, and discharge at about 12.5V, so a lot of the inefficiency is taken up by the voltage difference. The amp-hours is about the same for charging and discharging. There is some difference, but not as much as you might think.But the actual ah the battery charges at will be less due to energy conversion perhaps as much as 50%
Or what happened to me - starting off, then running straight into a traffic jam, stop-start for an hour in the mid-day heat. Definitely no 55mph airflow.The only condition that concerns me having watched this is me starting the engine after a week off grid and idling for 20 mins whilst completing ‘pre flight checks’ etc where the batteries could overwork the alternator a ‘bit’!
How is a b2b wired?
One end on the leisure batteries obviously.
Is the other end connected to the alternator or starter battery or both?
I wish everyone drove with them onI have a 70A B2B for my inverter lithium batteries (290Ah equivalent), and the fridge power is 14A in addition. The alternator is whatever Hymer put on a Fiat 2.8 engine, and it's worked fine so far. I usually drive with the headlamps on as well, even in daytime, and that's another 12A.
This schematic is a bit oversimplified. The alternator to starter battery is a vital link, that causes all sorts of problems if it is ever disconnected. If there is a fuse on it, it is never combined with a fuse for other devices. Your B2B connection will go from the starter battery terminal plate. It needs its own fuse of a suitable size.Sorry but I am a bit dense, I see on the schematic that the positive wire travels straight across