Any further ideas please

vectian

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As I previously posted about my fridge on the Hobby 600
The igniter is not clicking as it should do when the switch is turned on.
I've managed to get to the wiring on the top of the fridge, the easiest way I found was to remove the gas hob.
Testing the wiring to the illuminated rocker switch that operates the igniter, there's one at the bottom that goes to earth and there is no live feed to either of the two other wires.
The wiring to the other side appears fine and the 12 volt side of that comes on when the engine is running as I believe it should do.

Has anybody any idea where the 12volt feed for the igniter comes from. I think that it must be a permanent live feed as in the past when the gas has run out and the switch is on it clicks all the time until the bottle is changed over or the switch turned off. would it be a direct feed from the battery, leisure battery or somewhere else. I don't seem to be able to find it and don't really want to be completely stripping the van out to find it.
 
Not knowing the make of your fridge, sometimes when I get a problem like this I think it’s worth getting an expert to take a look and they will probably know the problem and fix it instantly and do a couple of hours overtime at work to pay the bill. Good Luck.
 
Not knowing the make of your fridge, sometimes when I get a problem like this I think it’s worth getting an expert to take a look and they will probably know the problem and fix it instantly and do a couple of hours overtime at work to pay the bill. Good Luck.
My problem is I live on the Isle of Wight and there are very few real experts overhere
 
The fridge Low Current 12V Supply comes from the leisure battery. As you say, it is a 'permanent' live. If there's a habitation 12V on/off switch that switches the 12V lights, water pump etc off, the fridge will NOT be wired to that, it needs to be on all the time. So that narrows down the search area. Is there anything else that isn't working? Maybe it's on the same fuse. Typically the step or frost protection valve.

As you say, the High Current 12V Supply seems to be working OK. That comes from the alternator/starter battery, and is switched by the 'Engine Run' signal. It's usually a 20A fuse near the starter battery. That supply is just for the fridge 12V element. Everything else (igniter, gas valve control, power source switching etc) comes from the Low Current supply.

I don't know what model of fridge it is, but the igniter is usually a black box, located at the back of the fridge. Usually you can remove the lower external vent to get access. You'll see the burner (follow the gas pipes). There's a well-insulated high voltage spark wire from the burner to the igniter module.
 
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I don't know what model of fridge it is, but the igniter is usually a black box, located at the back of the fridge. Usually you can remove the lower external vent to get access. You'll see the burner (follow the gas pipes). There's a well-insulated high voltage spark wire from the burner to the igniter module.
Thanks for that autorouter, its an Electrolux RM4261, I don't have an electric step but I will check the autodump valve is live and ok.
I've removed the lower vent to access the area and have seen the well insulated wire you mention, I didn't realize that came from the igniter unit. I will try and find the box and see if there's power going to that.
I'll check the leisure battery to see if there's any fuses near it but that means removing the passengers side captains chair completely as the leisure battery takes up all the room under it with no other access to it.
I'll get there eventually I'm sure and thanks for this information.

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Worth pointing out that the igniter will probably have a delay on it for when filling at fuel station etc to prevent accidents but that would be for vehicles with ability to use whilst on the move.😊
 
I'll check the leisure battery to see if there's any fuses near it but that means removing the passengers side captains chair completely as the leisure battery takes up all the room under it with no other access to it.
Maybe others can help on this, but I'd think no-one would design a replaceable fuse into an inaccessible space like that. There should be a main fuse quite near the leisure battery, then a feed to a fusebox with all the hab fuses.
 

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